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Not sure testing the regulator to blow the fuse matters much.
There is not much else to check. If the S/G checks out per the test on Utube, the regulator is likely bad. Can't keep buying them though. This would drive me crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #242 (Edited)
I still am considering the fact that maybe the old mechanical ammeter provides some form of resistance to trigger the regulator. Could this be a possibility? I've pulled the regulator and there are no severed connections and everything has proper continuity. Only thing I've found is that the gen terminal has a connection to ground, but it's at about 4 ohms. Everything else is clear unless it runs through the coils. My old regulator has the same reactions and the same outcome. No charge.

After reading this thread, there's a possibility I still need a new generator. I'm working my way through tests now.

Edit 1:
Update on things. Tested my old regulator with a good ground, seeing as it passed all tests I performed. Made sure connections between every terminal was good, not just at the wire, and cleaned every possible part. Triple checked my regulator ground. S/G tested at correct amount of ohms. Didn't change voltage when F was grounded. Still 12 volts. Zero clue at this point.

Voltage not changing when F is grounded at the generator puts the generator at fault. Generator passes ohm test correctly. F and A both test good with the youtube test. Only other option is pulling it apart and ohm testing the armature. Don't really want to do that again. I pulled the much newer looking generator off my parts tractor, but it doesn't quite fit right and I'm not ready to give up on the old one just yet. Seeing as the generator still isn't recieving power from the regulator I'm calling it another regulator issue. Only this time there's nothing obviously wrong with the regulator.

Maybe I bought the wrong one?

Edit 2: Found someone running the solid state regulator I wanted to experiment with. Might be my next best bet.
Thread
The SS regulator
 

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I have that post on the Harley regulator saved and want to try it. Maybe this summer. I think it would work great on the 990 Briggs S/G.

The regulator you bought should be correct. Reference this post: Briggs Voltage regulator Starter/... - Yesterday's Tractors

The amp meter does not affect the regulator in any way.

Edit: I just checked the voltages on the tractor.
The G terminal that is connected to A on the S/G reads 0v until the starter solenoid is engaged, then 12v. Once the engine is running, it reads about 14v.
The F reads 0v when the key is turned on. After the engine is running, it reads about 0.44v and the amp meter is reading about 5 amps. This will vary depending on the charging rate needed by the battery. Mine is fully charged.

I can check ohm readings if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
My A terminal at the generator has 0v, which tells me the G terminal at the regulator will have 0v. That means I've got yet another brand new regulator that's bad. I know there's continuity with the wire because I tested that last night. Thank you again for your help, glad I'm not the only one experimenting with "modernizing" my 990.
 

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Discussion Starter #245
I've ordered a solid state regulator to try. In the meantime I've moved the snow blade to my 960 and brought my tiller in for an oil change and cleanup. Hopefully this regulator will solve all of my problems and I'll get a good year of service out of it. Longest it's lasted has been six months. Not bad, but not great. I'm looking forward to spring now, it's been so warm lately.
 

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Hope the new SS regulator does the job. I think it will.
 

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Discussion Starter #247 (Edited)
Hard no on that. It doesn't. Still at 12 volts. The regulator has 3 wires; white, green, and red.
The diagram shows:
GN, green, to the field
O, orange? which turns to R, red, for the battery
TN, tan? white? To the A terminal.
It's wired as such and still does nothing.

Below is the original Harley Davidson diagram.
1582237613988.png
To fit 990 wiring:
Green to Red, field
Red to Black, battery
White to Green, generator

It's grounded to the backing plate which runs directly to the battery ground terminal.

I wouldn't think it would need polarized being solid state.

I'm also out of starter generators to waste on it.

I get about half a volt at the A terminal and nothing at the field.

Fuse is good.

Am I missing something or should I stick a for sale sign on it and walk away? I'm genuinely getting tired of struggling with this charging system considering a dead battery (ya know, its purpose to fix) killed it to begin with.
 

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You can run the tractor and use a charger when needed. With a good battery, it will need charging only occasionally.

You certainly have done your best to learn about and repair the 990 and it's charging system. Maybe it is time to move on to a new project. Putting time and money into something that is not working out, feels like a lost cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #249 (Edited)
I've gone through and even placed my finest generator on this machine that I bought off a member here a few years back. It's definitely the quietest, my others scream in the bearing department and one even has swelled magnets from the severe overheat. After trying to get one 100% good generator I just put the non-fitting one on and still, 12 volts.

I might try placing my old ammeter in-line on the machine and see if it reads anything. It might just like making exactly 12 volts. My new one is for measuring amp draw, not amp charge.

My last chance is hauling the thing to the local steam show this summer and consulting some of the guys there about it.

I guess I'd better look at other machines, as my intended purpose for this would have put it away from immediate access to chargers. It was going to be for taming land on an uncleared lot, without access to electricity. I severely regret trying to force it to charge that battery that day, but bygones will be bygones and if anything I'll find another tractor like this with a good system and either rob it for this one or part this one out. It's been good to me, but it can't run lights to clear snow or otherwise work at night with no charging system onboard.

Edit: I hooked my original ammeter up in-line and got some interesting results. It seemingly isn't a 100% pass through system. If it's in-line to the new gauge, the new gauge doesn't receive power unless the engine is being turned over. If a solid wire is ran to my gauge, it receives full time power, no matter the key position. I'm wondering if my whole problem has been this new gauge as I originally suspected.
 

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I could be. Try installing the old meter. The new meter can then be used as a volt meter only.
Volts should still read 13.5v if charging though.
 

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Discussion Starter #251
The old meter also didn't make a difference. At this point I'm ready to be out of this hobby as a whole and move on to modern hydraulics and pre-epa diesels. We have a few where I work and they're fantastic. 4x4, FELs, and if I'm lucky, power steering, would be a wonderful upgrade.

If horizontal shaft opposed twins were cheaper I'd just cut up my grille and swap one in like I've seen on another tractor here. The built in charging systems on those seems to be unkillable, we had one go for 2000 hours before the engine kicked the bucket, and it still charged then.
 

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Discussion Starter #252
I've got just lovely news! A friend of mine bought a tractor today with a working charging system that had the most disgusting regulator I've seen on it. I got curious and pulled the nasty one out of my Squire 12 out back, seeing as it's been deemed too far gone. Eureka! Charge! Didn't even have to polarize it. 13.2 volts and 1.66 amps steady, as it should be. This tractor's now ready for its new head gasket. I knew this machine was overly partial to old regulators, but jeez I never thought it was this much of a fuddy duddy. Maybe I just got very unlucky with regulators. Going to keep this one.
 

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Good to hear! So an old one from a parts tractor works and the new regulators don't. Go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #254
I guess my tractor is against imported parts. Strange, strange stuff. 3 new regulators vs one ancient rusty one.
 

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Discussion Starter #255 (Edited)
Recently threw a PTO belt, replaced those and pulled the front universal and replaced it with a Napa one, doesn't fit perfectly and wont take grease now that it's installed, but it fits. Got the part number here. It had play and needed replacing anyway, so two birds, one stone. Also had to replace the spring pin with a modern tension pin. Got my blades sharpened up and my deck installed and leveled for the year as well. I'll have to get pictures of it in operation soon.

On a side note, my tiller driveshaft is hideously out of balance, I'm going to either find somewhere to straighten, balance, or make a new one. It shakes my tractor apart unless the tiller is under load.
 

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Great to read of your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #257
I've got even more progress done on this machine. It developed a pretty bad hydraulic leak and I think I found it in the form of a loose fitting. Tightened them all as much as I could and cycled it without attachments to maximum and minimum extension a few times and had no leaks, will let it sit overnight.
Also figured out that my super loose front axle was able to be fixed by simply tightening the snot out of the center axle nut. Now it handles less like a Case traction engine and more like a normal garden tractor. Should be a pleasure to mow with now.
After that I finally found a cheat way to tighten my brakes and get the pad to grab again, and have it as tight as it'll go, still don't have strong brakes but it's better than none, and should help me exponentially when loading the old girl on my sloped trailer.
I neglected to get any pictures of the thing up on stands, but I will say it looks and feels quite funny when the hood is nearly at my shoulders!
 
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