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Looks great!

There is more steel on the top edge of the wear bar. Will help not wear the blade until you get a new bar.

Use a locking nut on the rear and leave it a bit loose so there is no binding when raising and lowering the blade.
 

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Discussion Starter #222
Put the old gal to work pushing and pulling brush on a friend's river bank. She's no powerhouse, but she's no slouch either. Only seems to like pulling rotted stuff.
 

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Getting the tractor to do some worthwhile work is satisfying. All the hours of getting it running and learning how to repair it. Pretty impressive to me and those following your thread. Nice work.
 

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A lot of good accomplishments your definitely not a quitter. Unlike some on here cough cough cough Rider that has a barn full of these 990's ? I only have one that I rebuilt & love it. VTXRider & some others were a great help for me especially responding so quickly. I wished I could pick up a couple more. Most of my problems were minor but a lot of them. Mine was a rust bucket that had sit outside for years & I bought it not knowing if it ran but the engine was free. I had a regulator with bad mounting brackets & I redone mine. I'll look back & see if I can find it. You done a great job not only rescuing your 990 but getting it to work. I'm not on here much because its so hard getting on without having to reset my password all the time. MTF is probably the best for 990 owners. I'm going to get back on here on a regular basis & I have a lot of catching up to do. Great job & it was fun reading your thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #225
Don't compliment it anymore! It broke again! :eek::LOL: I mentioned that it was being good and had the bugs worked out. Next thing I know the S/G hit a top of 327 degrees Fahrenheit and I didn't know until I smelled brushes and grabbed my thermal gun. Was charging a near-dead battery at a steady 7-10 amps, which I assumed was fine. At that point the regulator popped right as I looked at the gauge. Fuse didn't go somehow. Next upgrade will be a volt gauge so I know what voltage and amperage it's at. Recently installed some air horns for fun and a 12v outlet. It flooded and wouldnt start and the battery died trying, got it going after finding a grounded kill wire and that's when all this began. Had it sitting outside running at part throttle to recharge. Going to throw another regulator at it at the end of the month when the paycheck hits. It won't polarize, and I know very well the problem. A melted internal wire. It also backfired one time and shot another head gasket out of it. I have one more...one...is it China diesel time yet? This electrical system is driving me batty. Blew apart the S/G, it's pretty stiff but I greased it up and hopefully itll free back up with more runtime. It's also my last one that isn't on another machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #226 (Edited)
After waiting for a new regulator to come in only to have the tractor kill it within five seconds of startup, I'm considering selling this machine in search of something more reliable. I'm close to buying my first home and need something I can rely on when the snow hits or the grass gets too tall. If anyone has a suggestion on fixing the regulator killing issue or knows of a regulator that is better quality I'd love to hear what you have to say. If this tractor had a normal Bendix type starter I'd just put a truck alternator on it. If there's a modern electronic alternative to use I'd love to try it. Am currently looking into solid-state regulators.
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The only thing I can think of is the regulator is wired incorrectly, causing it to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #228
I've never had luck with the newer chinese made regulators. I'm guessing the vintage one that went melted my S/G and it's grounding somewhere. Switched my spare on and will see if the VR off my Squire 12 will work on it at some point. If that works I'll know this tractor has killed another generator.
 

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Discussion Starter #229 (Edited)
I've narrowed it down to a short somewhere seeing as the tractor set itself on fire in my shop. Smelled it and caught it thankfully I was inside. Going to replace every bit of wire on it sometime in the distant future. I've got three or four machines ahead of this one in level of need, so I'll have to see how much I get done.
 

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Discussion Starter #230
I've spent some money and done some work. I found a volt/ammeter combo for a very affordable price and it fits like it was made to adapt in. This is my first time building a loom and so far I've been successful. Hopefully this stops all gremlins and will let me monitor everything going on.
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Since taking these pictures I've installed the voltage regulator, a new-used throttle assembly, and a new ignition switch. I need to wire in a fuse block, the ammeter, grounds to the VR and headlights, and get battery/starter cables to finish this thing up. It definitely looks better. I just hope it performs to match.
 

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You are doing a fine job re-wiring the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #232 (Edited)
Tractor wiring is complete. I still have no charge and now it doesn't shut off with the key. Everything is wired the same. The tractor burned up the generator that was on it the night of the fire so I took the extra spare off my 860 which doesn't run an electrical system. Generator tests fine. All wiring is per-diagram. The new ammeter/volt meter works beautifully and shouldn't affect charging performance unless the old ammeter somehow caused a needed resistance. I'm registering only 12.4 volts and 0 amps when the tractors running. Meter registers amp load when turning over as well as a voltage drop so I know it's working correctly. Also turned on the lights to cause a volt/amp draw. No difference. I also tested the original switch, so that's not at fault. The kill wire is at my fault, but the charging is very confusing to me seeing as everything has a circuit. Fuse also isn't blown.
 

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Should be the correct switch. The "M" terminal grounds the magneto when turned to the off position. Is the switch grounding the magneto wire? Is there a ground wire going to the switch? Is the switch wire connected to the points/magneto terminal on the points mounting screw?

Use an ohm meter or continuity checker to determine if the magneto terminal at the points cover is being grounded when the switch is in the off position.

You can manually short the mag wire to ground to shut the motor off.
 

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Discussion Starter #234 (Edited)
The tractor has the same mag ground wire it's had for several years. It no longer meets the points cover and instead goes directly in the cowl to the magneto. When I reassembled the tractor back in 2016 the plastic part was missing, so I wired past it. The ohm meter registers a circuit to the ground terminal on the tractor regardless of the switch position. I'm very confused now, seeing as the tractor really shouldn't run if it's registering constant ground. Double checked my harness. Everything's the same. The charging for me is a much larger issue, as I can bypass the key with a simple toggle switch for on/off if it refuses to cooperate. I'm going to run a ground to the key switch and see what that does. I have a suspicion that I'm not getting a ground to it and need one. Edit: That was the kill issue. I'll run a ground and see if anything else changes.
 

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Rotate the engine, maybe the points are closed and showing a short to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #236 (Edited)
The ignition switch wasn't getting a good ground. I ran a wire and solved that. Now I'm attacking this infamous seemingly unending charging problem on my 990. The new ammeter simply ties in to an already ran wire, so the battery/ignition switch/bat terminal wire are all wired together. Would that make a difference? When I got the tractor that's how it was wired, but I never tested it this way. I've just tested and have no power to my generator unless the key is in the start position. Regulator has 12 volts at the battery terminal and has been polarized, so there's no short there. The generator tests fine, but we know that isn't the problem because it isn't recieving power. The regulator as far as I know is wired 100% correctly. When polarized it turned the engine over slightly, as expected. The fuse isn't blown. What's the issue here??? Everything points to the brand new regulator...again. I even opened it and touched the terminals together to make sure it'd blow the fuse. It did. I really don't know what its issue is now. It acts like every single regulator I've accidentally done every possible thing to over the years yet it still won't charge.
 

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The engine turning over to start does not use the regulator.

Have you followed the schematic diagram to rewire or rewired it the way it was before?

Trace each wire from the regulator. F terminal going the the F terminal on the S/G. B going to the "-" terminal on the amp meter and to the B terminal in the starter switch. G terminal going to the A (large solenoid cable) on the S/G.

Make sure the regulator has a good ground. I ran a separate ground wire on one of my tractor's regulators. Put the wire under one of the regulator mounting bolts then to a bolt on the frame of the tractor. I used the same bolt as the battery ground cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #238 (Edited)
I followed the schematic diagram. Everything leads to where it should. Gen to A, F to F, Bat to key switch/battery. The way it's wired right now the bat terminal has constant 12v power. It's seemingly a side effect of the way the new ammeter has to be wired. My ammeter is a single positive wire ammeter, it doesn't go through it, it simply goes to it and away from it again. Here I've shown that circled in the edited schematic. That's the only difference other than this ammeter needing a ground since it's digital. The ground shouldn't affect charging at all.
Schematic.png Schematic2.png
Edit: Here also is my ammeter's wiring setup.
VRDG2e.jpg

Its most definitely something between the regulator and generator, seeing as I have power to the regulator, but none from it to the generator. No power, no charge.
 

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The new amp meter should be fine. You stated it is working ok.
The starter switch B terminal will be showing +12v all the time as will the B terminal on the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #240
At this point it's something with the regulator, everything points to it being at fault. Continuity tests put a constant circuit between the Gen and F terminals, no matter the position of the rockers inside the regulator. Not sure of how it's supposed to be, but that's what I'm getting. The wiring is still all 100% correct, which makes me wonder if I've accidentally left some wires touching inside the generator when I pulled it apart to lubricate everything, which could be confusing the regulator. That can't be the issue, though, or in theory touching the F terminal would send power to both armatures and spin up the generator.
 
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