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Good to hear from you. Could you detail how you fixed the regulator?
 

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Discussion Starter #184 (Edited)
@poncho62 Nice looking machines! Appears that your 960 and my 990 are from the same era, they share a paint job! Seems the MTD branded machines are less common.

@VTXRider Simply bought a much stronger solder kit and soldered where it had melted the connection to one of the contacts, unfortunately it quit charging again later that day, and I took it all apart. Generator tested good, and the regulator looked fine. Fuse wasn't blown, ammeter still reacted as it'd dip when cranking the engine over, so I assume wiring is good. Even re-polarized the regulator and did the field test on the generator.

I know it's been almost a month since I posted, but I quickly became busy with other projects. I'm going to be ordering a head gasket and points for it now because after it quit charging I parked it. In trying to get it going again I realized I've lost spark again and it's dropped more compression since last time I had it going. Tired of dealing with both so I'm going to just replace them. Going to see about sourcing a head as well, because when I took the spark plug out most of my threads came out with it...I just can't have good luck with this engine. Might as well blow apart my s/g again while I'm at it and clean it up inside once more. Eventually I'll get this to where it runs in the winter time. I'm hopefully going to figure out a sort of block heater as well. It cranks so slow in the cold that it won't do anything but backfire and spit at me, if it even hits at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
Some updates from the past months. Have the head off the tractor, as the gasket blew again. Still haven't ordered a new head, but I'm going to keep it running with this one until I have the extra money to put into new points, condensor, a head, a gasket, an ignition switch, and a starter relay. Sick of the timing issues so when I have time I'm just replacing everything. Took the entire generator apart again, and really got detailed with cleaning it up. It's spotless inside. Checked and found nothing wrong with the voltage regulator or the generator, so they're reinstalled. Pulled the body off the tractor to snug down the fenders and found out my seat was completely rusted through, and all but one of the bolts that held the seat spring down snapped. Ground the nuts off and will be getting new ones and welding them on. I'll be likely back-plating the seat until I find a new one that will fit. Anyone know where seats that will fit these tractors can be bought new? I haven't found one with the single middle bolt hole yet. I'm looking forward to having this one back in operation. My poor little Simplicity walk behind has been handling all the work!
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Continuing work on this machine, I've got the seat spring re-mounted, new nuts welded in, and the headlight cover back on the tractor. Head gasket is set to arrive Tuesday, starter generator seems to be a lot better even with a dead battery, I feel like most of my issues should go away if only I can make it crank as fast as it really should. If I can get the charging system going again, I'll be adding headlights. I want to eventually go through the entire electrical system on this tractor and make it reliable. As for seats I'm considering a metal pan seat from tractor supply. Opinions? It's really starting to look like a tractor again! Nice to have the fenders actually mounted solidly, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Got surprised today with an early arrival on the head gasket! Cleaned the points again which gave me spark, and went to start the tractor. It was then that my generator went up in smoke. Went and grabbed my spare that doesn't fit and found a way to mount it, at least temporarily. The voltage regulator is bad somewhere that I cant find, as it won't polarize, but the spare generator came from a running tractor and it worked wonders on this things usefulness. A member here sent it to me a few years ago (thanks!) and I never used it until now. Itll spin fast and fire up with a near-dead battery now! Used an old trick of mine and bolted a seat pan to the spring and placed the original seat in it as a temporary fix as well. Can't really tell anything's off at a distance.
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Even more farm-fix ingenuity today. I decided I wanted helpers to lift the tiller, got tired of the throttle floating down to idle, found a way to stop my control lever falling to the side since the guide is missing, and mounted the starter generator to where it'll stay snug. I know nobody really likes seeing farm fixes like this on tractors that should be kept nice, but I haven't had a single cent to spare and aside from the head gasket have spent a whopping $0.94 on the tractor to get it from unusable to running perfectly. Proof that you don't need much to make something work. I'm going to replace the blue bungee with another rubber one soon, and they do a pretty good job at helping lift the tiller. Appears the picture of the throttle uploaded upside down. Sorry guys, at least it uploaded! The computer I'm using is ancient.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Alright, this is the point where I need some help. I've successfully polarized my voltage regulator, it's seemingly working, my ammeter registers discharge when cranking, so it's working, my starter generator field tests out okay, and I've tried giving it a tap of 12v power to excite it and I still don't have any charge. It's as if the regulator isn't working properly, but it is polarized. Is there something I'm missing? Could the regulator still not be sending power to the field?
 

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If the generator passes the 12v field test, then the only thing left is the regulator and wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
I went and did some experimenting, verified my wiring worked, and started making my old regulator work. Twisted what I assume is some sort of ground resistor to the field post together since it burned through (paper post with thin steel wire coiled around it), and put squeeze-on wire terminal I trimmed down on the melted internal wire. What do you know, a couple pokes and prods and I have over 10 amps and 16 volts at the battery! If the mounts weren't broken off the regulator I'd use it.

Over my birthday I bought a parts 960 I picked up for $30 that I'm going to be parting into another 960 I picked up, also got another parts 990 just for the factory tool tray, belt guard, brake return spring, and a couple other things mine was missing. Gave the rest of the tractor to a friend who's using it at his place. Was originally going to give him the $30 960 but it was super rough so I parted it out. My friend doesn't plan on keeping his 990 original at all...so he doesn't mind having an incomplete tractor. He plans on putting tracks on it if that says anything... Should be fun if he ever gets time.
 

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You now must have a regulator from the two parts machines. Either of those work?
16v charge is too high and will boil the battery. It does show the generator is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Pulled home the parts machine today and its regulator works correctly, 14-15 volts and 10 amps instead of 16 volts and 13 amps, put the new gasket and cover from my newest regulator on it. Also now have a working generator that is the correct one for my tractor. Very happy about this, and will be putting headlights back in it tomorrow. Next is getting my good 960 running again. It lost spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
Got a free pan seat today and put it on the seat spring off of my parts tractor, mounted it to my good 960. Going to be fabricating some kind of dashboard soon, and will be putting a proper wiring harness on it. Trying to get the driveshaft off the PTO of the parts tractor as well, and see if my 990 deck fits the 960. Also got a free sleeve hitch of what I was told "might have been" a Montgomery Ward tractor. Going to see about adapting it to my 3 point so I can use Brinley style attachments. Would love to put my 990 to work with a plow. Please excuse my messy shop. Been working full time and trying to get these together and haven't had time for a "reset" in a while.


 

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Making progress. Be nice to get them to do some work.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Tilled up a plot for one of the gardens this year, and put the deck on to see how it'd handle. Ran into a few hiccups but fixed them quickly, tractor flawlessly mowed over two acres. Seems to be more fuel efficient than last time I had it mowing, too. Didn't get any pictures, unfortunately. However, I do have a picture of a sleeve hitch I recently scored. Going to be widening it and adding links to it to fit the original lift points on the 3pt hitch. Also have to fabricate a new link for the 3pt at some point, as one of mine is bent. Got my top link freed up so I can adjust it, and built a very simple crane for the rear of the tractor. The tractor can't pick up more than 200lbs, but it moved my 960 around without a transmission, which is the only reason I built it in the first place. Also did an oil change and cleaned up the wiring. Seems the forum hates my photos, as they're all sideways.
 

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Discussion Starter #197 (Edited)
Modified my sleeve hitch today, widened it about 3 inches using metal I had laying around. Fits well and none of the welds look worse than what it had factory. Fits the right side drag link after grinding off the original pin and drilling it out to fit my pins. Might eventually make it fit both drag links depending on how it performs. I'm going to be hopefully buying a plow and blade used next time I get paid. Then I'll be able to plow snow and my gardens!
Edit: Fixed upside down pictures

I think this hitch may have been off a sears of some sort. Either way I found another in 5 minutes of browsing the web so it must not be to rare. That's why I decided to hack it up. Not like I cant return it to original with some time and welding, not that I'd ever need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #198 (Edited)
Well, I have messed up. Went to drag out a tree the other day and heard a loud crunch, got to investigating and a stick has came up and hit the cooling fan. shattered all but two blades. How well can it do without? How hard is it to replace? I've found it under part number 931-0317 and it's available on Amazon, I just want to verify it's the right one before pulling the trigger.
https://www.amazon.com/931-0317-Genuine-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B0017ORLAU
 

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Discussion Starter #199
Well, I have messed up. Went to drag out a tree the other day and heard a loud crunch, got to investigating and a stick has came up and hit the cooling fan. shattered all but two blades. How well can it do without? How hard is it to replace? I've found it under part number 931-0317 and it's available on Amazon, I just want to verify it's the right one before pulling the trigger.
https://www.amazon.com/931-0317-Genuine-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B0017ORLAU
Tore it all apart and got the roll pin out, then got the old fan off by means of...force...and found out the set screw is actually broken off for the u-joint to trans input shaft. My luck in the past is always snapping drill bits trying to drill it out, but I guess I'll have to take that chance again. Everything else has been a battle on this tractor due to my own stupidity of breaking it to begin with, why not this?

Well I thought I added this to the original post...but okay. Guess it decided to quote it.
 

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If you search for the part number on Ebay, it is a bit cheaper.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-MTD-931-0317-FAN/231907541447?hash=item35fec441c7:g:3UEAAOSws5pZIyO3:sc:USPSFirstClass!49534!US!-1

The set screw is soft so it should drill out ok. Broken bits are part of the process.:tango_face_plain: I am thinking there was no set screw on the transmission end u-joint. Only the shaft key. The u-joint is suppose to slide on the charge pump shaft. Allowing for any movement in and out of the drive shaft. I may be wrong on this and the set screw is on older models.
I smear Never-Seize on the the shaft ends so it is much easier to remove next time.
 
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