My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Progress is going well on my resto. I have a few questions I was hoping you all could help with

-when front facing or rear facing carbs are referenced, did this apply to only the aluminum body carbs? if so, is there a serial # list that I can check my carb against to see what it is SUPPOSED to be? reason I ask is I am not sure if the carb was on the machine the way that it was supposed to be when I got it. for what it's worth, I have the small canister filter on top of the machine next to the oil filter, so the air inlet on the carb was facing forward when I got it.

-anyone have a source for gravely hood decals?

-is there any way to identify whether an engine is a 5, 6.6 or 7.6hp OTHER than by the cylinder head spark plug hole, and the serial #? Again, not sure my machine isn't a frankenstein.

-is a tach really necessary when setting up a governor?

-adding the push type kill switch in the handle. my other unit had one, but wires were cut where it came out of handlebar. Can anyone tell me where these wire(s) go to?

-I have seen convertible, super convertible, and custom convertible used to describe some models. what defined the difference between each model?

Sorry for all the questions but I haven't been able to find answers so far to these questions.
 

·
Gravely 2-wheeler
Joined
·
920 Posts
You can download manuals for free at www.gtcoa.com. They don't have them for every year but find a parts list for a year that is close and looks like your machine. It sounds like you have a front facing carb.

Craig Seabrook and John Jackson sell Gravely decals. They advertise in the Gravely Gazette and are at the Mow-In and some swap meets.

I'll pass on the engine identification.

I don't always use a tach when setting up a governor. But I don't often run at WOT either. I added tachs on two of my walk behinds (because they also give 25 hr oil change reminders) and also have a hand held tach.

For the kill switch, the disk type push button in the end of the grip uses the body to contact the handlebar (ground) and the one wire goes to the screw on the side of the magneto that holds the kill button. On a toggle switch one wire goes to ground and one wire goes to the screw on the side of the magneto that holds the kill button.

My understanding (may be wrong) was that the Super Convertible was a 7.6hp with Swiftmatic transmission and electric start. Custom Convertible was a 7.6hp with Swiftmatic transmission and strap start.

Hope I haven't lead you too far astray.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,136 Posts
A few other tidbits:

What carb you're supposed to have: Rule of thumb: the paper air filters which sit next to the oil filter were never (to my knowledge, anyway) used with the long U-shaped air inlet. So if you have that paper filter, you should have a front-facing carb. Caveat: Either or both could have been changed. Plus, I'm pretty sure there was a period of overlap where you could buy a new machine with either a paper or oil-bath air filter. Finally, gravely did a lot of parts-bin engineering, mixing and matching available parts to build up machines. So unless you have a photo of your machine on the day it was sold, it's very difficult to be absolutely sure what stock condition was.

Kill switch: I recommend a positive action toggle switch, rather than a pushbutton. Especially if you have electric start. It's easy to let pressure off the button when the engine is spinning down, but still able to make a spark. That can lead to kickback, which can knock your flywheels out of alignment when there's a starter clutch on there.

Paul's correct, convertibles were the last of the L family. 7.6 hp, governor, swifto. Super with electric start, custom without.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
A few photos would help us 'guess' at the year of your tractor.

A photo from the left front, looking at the advance casting, a photo of the carburetor and air hose, a photo from the right side showing the shifting levers.

Is there a serial number tag on the gas tank? Is there a serial number tag on the left side of the advance casting?

Roger,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
aweiss,


Just a quick thing about the kill switch. I installed a new push-button kill switch on my old Model L today. The connector on the old switch was a spade lug, but the new switch uses a crimped on plug-in connector. The new connector needs to be wrapped with electrical tape before it is inserted into the handlebar, otherwise the connector will touch the inside of the handlebar and keep the magneto grounded out at all times.

Good luck with your restoration.

Tom in TN
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
IMG_0486.JPG

My 1964 L8 with a forward facing Carburetor, notice the air filter assembly, that is what was used on the forward facing carbs and to my knowledge, and others too, this was the only time Gravely used the forward facing carb on the L. The air filter pictured used a appear filter that sat on top of a thick fiber ring that was oiled, this supposedly added to the filtration capabilities. I do believe the dry filter was an “upgrade” to the oil bath style that had been previously used.

Almost every Gravely L Ive seen with the cast iron carburetor used the rear facing type. I say almost every as recently I saw a photo of an L with a cast iron forward facing carburetor. It is important to note that these carburetors were found on a verity of small engines of the time and could be configured to the application.

IMG_0524.JPG

This is my 1969 7.6 Gravely. All 7.6 L’s came with a rear facing carburetor which breathed through a round paper element mounted outside of the hood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Here are some pics as requested, pardon the overspray which hasn't been wiped off yet:tango_face_sad:!

GTGgravelyparts SN page shows this to be a 1962 6.6, but that's assuming the tank is original to the machine. saw the stamped number in the cylinder head, don't know if that's traceable somewhere.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
Here are some pics as requested, pardon the overspray which hasn't been wiped off yet:tango_face_sad:!



GTGgravelyparts SN page shows this to be a 1962 6.6, but that's assuming the tank is original to the machine. saw the stamped number in the cylinder head, don't know if that's traceable somewhere.


While I do see a Governor and most of its linkage the carburetor is set up for direct hookup to the throttle cable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
While I do see a Governor and most of its linkage the carburetor is set up for direct hookup to the throttle cable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
coreectamundo, the guy had a governor attached to my other machine but it was not connected. i just got in *hopefully*all the stuff to make up the linkage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
thanks beaner. I;m using the setup someone posted on here with the threaded rod and 2 ball joint ends from McMaster Carr
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,574 Posts
I'd be interested in those part #s to do a similar upgrade.

Also, did you locate the plate riveted to the advance casting and what did it say for a s/n? You may have painted over it? Does it agree with the tank plate?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
I'd be interested in those part #s to do a similar upgrade.

Also, did you locate the plate riveted to the advance casting and what did it say for a s/n? You may have painted over it? Does it agree with the tank plate?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Gravely only placed one S/N plate on the L’s and it was either on the fan shroud or the advance casting not both. If you encounter two s/n plates than either the advanced casting is from a newer machine or the fan housing is from a earlier machine.
I think the change over was 1970ish.

If you want to be extremely specific the L’s never had the s/n plate on the advanced casting. Gravely dropped the L designation for C, all “C” tractors have a small metal plate riveted to the lower left side of the advanced casting, unless you have one of the weird LC tractors, those are change over machines as Gravely used up old stock of serial plates.

The “C” tractors had the 7.6HP engine but were identical to the L’s. My 1969 two wheel tractor is actually a 1969 7.6HP C8, I generally refer to it as an 7.6 L8 to avoid confusion. I do believe the C stood for Convertible, not commercial.


IMG_0453.JPG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
FYI

My 1969 (serial #J-41541) has the plate on the front casting, not on the tank mount.


As does my 69’ C8, the above photo is from my 1966 LC.

Gravely seemed to be going through a bit of an identity crisis, changing the L moniker to C when the 7.6 Gravely’s were released, this is Not to be confused with the Kohler powered Commercial 8, 10 & 12’s, if I’m not mistaken it was Us users that started calling the commercial Gravely’s C’s, not Gravely.

Gravely apparently did not like to waste on-hand stock and would use up what they had before starting with the new part, this is why a 1966 7.6 Gravely has a serial number plate on the fan shroud with the letter C following the letter L. If this tractor was an 8 speed it would have been stamped LC8. Presumably after all the large serial number plates were exhausted the serial number tag was moved to the advanced casting, perhaps making it harder for a nefarious someone to “swap” number plates...as if changing out the fan shroud is any less involved than swapping the advanced casting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
C model with later version of the swiftamatic is maybe the better choice than the earlier L 8 but realistically any tractor in good condition and bought at a fair price should keep any new owner happy. I do have a project kohler C 8 its original color is yellow and white and its considered pretty rare. I didn't know what it was until information on it showed up at this club some years ago.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
C model with later version of the swiftamatic is maybe the better choice than the earlier L 8 but realistically any tractor in good condition and bought at a fair price should keep any new owner happy. I do have a project kohler C 8 its original color is yellow and white and its considered pretty rare. I didn't know what it was until information on it showed up at this club some years ago.


The best 7.6 would be the later C8 with the improved Swiftamatic and Fed/Rev levers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top