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I had the occasion to remove the front wheels from the H-16 last weekend to use on the 1050 - since the 40 year old tires on the 1050 don't hold air any longer.

When I returned the wheels to the H-16, the right grease cap fell off twice in an hour. Fortunately I have a metal detector and we located it both times. Now I am fully versed in using a persuader to seat these caps (and mangle many other delicate, no longer available parts), so I'm not quite sure why suddenly the one cap has decided to go AWOL except perhaps it felt that I didn't already have enough to do...

Is there something I'm missing here? Is there a way to return the right cap to it's proud glory and maintain it's sense of family, it's sense of oneness with the tractor that has carried it through thick and thin these last 37 years?


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After a brief encounter with a sapling, which cause the roll pins for the right steering spindle to fail (I was in the process of noticing the grease cap missing for the second time when I encountered the sapling), I had to limp the H-16 back to the garage. After replacing the roll pins temporarily with whatever I happened to have that would fit (a bolt and a nail) I noticed that when I turned the right wheel the left wheel didn't immediately follow - there is noticable "slop" between the spindle shaft and the flat steering part (that's the technical name I'm sure). I also noticed while I could easily thread my temporary bolt through the lower hole, the upper one seemed to be difficult to pass the same bolt through. Is there an offset in the holes though the spindle shaft? How would I go about tightening up the play between the right and left wheels. This would be a separate issue from the play from the sttering wheel though the linkage.
 

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If a steel grease cap does not stay on on its own, I have been known to deform them slightly (v. slightly oval) to give them more bite. Or replace them completely with a new one.

As for slop, that is not uncommon. These things are old!

Doug
 

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To follow up, I looked at the front end on my H14, which is essentially the same tractor with a smaller engine. If the slop is being caused by wear inside the "cap" that the flat piece is attached to, yo might cure some of it by putting a small sleeve inside. If it is a loose flat piece where it attaches to the top of the spindle, you might need to weld.

Doug
 

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i cleand mine up and with a propane torch I built up a thin amount of solder on the outside and now it grips real well
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To follow up, I looked at the front end on my H14, which is essentially the same tractor with a smaller engine. If the slop is being caused by wear inside the "cap" that the flat piece is attached to, yo might cure some of it by putting a small sleeve inside. If it is a loose flat piece where it attaches to the top of the spindle, you might need to weld.

Doug
I was able to lessen the slop somewhat. I found out when I pulled the front tires off to put back on the G-14 that there was a fragment of the roll pin peened over in the upper hole. It only extended part way through the hole, causing the weird problem getting a bolt through the hole. Having to drop down in size was what was causing a great deal of the slop. Most, but not all of the play is gone.

Now to work on trying to eliminate some of the play from the steering wheel forward...

Doug, what hydro fluid do you use on your H-14? any idea how much it takes? I've read so many different things over the years. My understanding was Type F tranny fluid. I've always wanted to drain it and put in fresh form top to bottom, but I think I read somewhere that that is a bad thing...air locks and such...
 

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Your hydro will hold 5 to 8 quarts of oil. I have 2 hydro Bolens a 1257 and a 1455. I have type F in the 1257 and TSC Accel in the 1455.
I was at a plow day yesterday with the 1455. It ran great all day. It never whined or got hot. The Accel meets all of the Eaton specs and is made for hydrostatics.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your hydro will hold 5 to 8 quarts of oil.Dave
Thanks Dave! Is it as simple as using the rear drain plug until it stops running out and then refilling? I get worried about developing a air lock and wrecking something I'm not capable of repairing. If it really is that simple, I'll be out in the garage shortly to knock that of my to-do list...
 
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