Looks great. I thought that they were the interchancable pedestal by late '57?? I wish my tin and PA's looked that good on my 950.
And man o man that trailer looks like the cats meow. I would like to upgrade to something like that instead of the trailer I'm dragging tractors home with. Is it a gooseneck? I guess if I get something like that I'm going to need a bigger truck.
I had also thought interchangeable 2 piece pediastal as well.. perhaps that happened right at the end of the series?
I know this one has the old 'gear' style powermaster decals on it, also indicitave of late model 57's
yes.. that is a gooseneck trailer.. I use a F450 to pull it.. works out good.
here's what I did today
well. today started out as easy stuff.. new rad cap, change out the block petcock.. ( one I had from tsc wasn't drilled thru.. so that's a bummer.. ).. decided to go ahead and do all fluid changes, since I needed to pull the pto shaft out and rebuild it anyway.
drained all sumps.. had the usual troubles getting out most of the drain, and level check plugs... was expected..
no sumps had water in them.. that's a good sign.
then i got to the front pedistal.. looks like someone broke off a 1/4" extension or some other hard square tool in the plug.. tried spinning it out with a chissle.. finally got out the welder and tried to weld a nut over it.. that didn't work.. or at least not as intended. didn't slin the old plug out.. but did destroy the temper int he hard tool steel in what was in the plug center, so then I started drilling it out.. tried lefty's.. no luck though.. eventually got it as big as I could, then used a drill and pipe tap and just ran new threads in and put in a new plug with inverted alan.. PITA
lets see.. so far today I think I drilled out about a dozen broke off bolts.. what a major PITA.. every other fastener I go to touch is missine with a stump of a bolt in there..
pulled the ROR seat off.. it need welding on a small bracket that cracked.. fixed that.. finished getting the fenders off too.
replaced some pins inthe 3pt linkage as well.
had a spare pto I rebuilt from my 740 on the shelf so slipped that one in.. it is the longer 1 3/8 style not the stubby. I had a new seal and all so went ahead and rebuilt this pto shaft and now have it as spare on the shelf..
My question is this: With it having the pedestal in the front, what kind of ramps does that trailer have to get the front wheels up on it?? My trailer only has a place for the ramps to fit on either side...none in the middle. That being said, I think your trailer is quite a bit better than mine also!
Hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of this new project!:thThumbsU
I carry the removeable ramps that went to my 16' trailer with me, as well as a set of oil change ramps with me. between the 2 sets, I can load trikes or low profile vehicles like small cars that can't make the angle of the oem ramps. what I do is fold the oem ramps down, and set them on the oil change ramps that you drive up onto, then take my other longer ramps and bridge them.. thus the oil change ramp is just the place the oem and detachable ramps overlap.. I've loaded cars and small minivans with no troubles... or as I said.. trikes.
for the broken bolts / studs.. I center punch the broken off stub as best I can, the I try to start with a left handed bit and increase in size till it either unscrews, or I can start messing with fluted or square profile extractors. if the extractors fail, I keep drilling up till I can extract it.. or I am getting close to parent metal, then I try to peel the old threads out and chase.
occasionally I hit some hard studs, and instead of my high speed steel lefty's I use a carbide masonry bit set.. and do the same.. drill up as far as I can and try to extract.
if luck is with you.. you drill straight and extract.. if it's super stubborn.. you drill off center and if possible rethread larger.. or retread off center and adjust brackets and such to compensate. all depends on where it is and what it goes into. IE.. head.. where you can't goo too deep or off center sometimes as you want to stay out of water areas.. or oil passages..
In rare cases where it is a non critical bolt in a somewhat critical place.. for instance a 3/8 bolt in a place where you have no room for error.. i will try to drill out and extract all the way up to 1/4.. if notheing.. then sometimes I will then drill and thread at 1/4 if it is a place that needs a fastener but holds no real load ( like a mount for some sheet metal to a head or block.. just needs to be there.. but don't need to be strong.. and you don't have room to ruin the hole .. etc.
I also have occasionally drilled out some places oversize, thread with pipe threads, then screw in a pipe plug, then grind flat, then drill that out and rethread oem. have had to do that on stuff I found that was alread OS threads and damaged before..
the soft cast iron pipe plugs drill easilly..
for lube I keep a can of wd/40 with a straw handy.. just using lil 1/4 second bursts as soon as the last bit of oil starts to flash off.. IE.. keeping the bit wet and cool..if it is a deep hole, pull the bit up often to clear the hole and add more lube.
on stubborn stuff.. I sometimes go right fo rthe carbide.
the hardest ones are where the bolt is broke off at an angle. if it is not too deep I center punch it at an angle, but int he center, then start the carbide bit in at an angle and only make like a 1/16 deep impression, just enough to straighten the drill bit out then start going in true. still hard... I bet I drill off center on at least 1/4 of the ones.. no matter how hard i try..
once drilled.. about 20% come out with a lefty bit, and another 40% come out with a flute or square extractor... the remainders just have to be drilled and chased as best you can.. or at least for me that's about how the numbers fall anyway.
well.. got home at 4m.. ate dinner, went out around 5:15, just came in at 7:20... got ALL the sheet metal off the 950.. chased some more bolt holes, cleaned, adjusted and lubed the steering box ( pulled the steer wheel off and cleaned up the splines and never seized them.)
drained the block and installed a new petcock. will likely remove the radiator wednesday afternoon to get at yet another pair of broken bolts in the front of the head that will be needed for the front fuel tank bracket and the genny top bracket.. ho hum.
got the front pedistal cleaned up, and ran out of time filling it with lube.. ( ran out of lube too! ).. started to rain again.. had already removed the air cleaner, so i taped of fthe carb and manifold / muffler and thru a can over the steering colyumn and called it a day...
had a couple hours to work on the tractor and decided to focus on the last 3 broken bolts that needed to come out to attach the gas tank brackets and genny brackets.
one was a breeze.. 5 minutes, pulle dright out, and threads were fine.
then there is one that came out on the right side that has some damage to the rim of the hole. i have decided to not mess with trying to further repair that one till I see how the bracket fits and what, if anything I can or need to do to it.
last hole was in the front for the top geny bracket.. pulle dthe rad and fan, and started at it with a carbide bit, then a lefty. it fialed to budge even on an extractor, so I kept drilling up/ original hole was 3/8 and I finally got the bolt thin enough so that a chase broke it and I dug it out with a pick.. bad news.. hole was already cross threaded some time inthe past, and was likely why the guy broke this bolt off trying to force it.. i ran a chase in.. but there simply weren't enough threads or metal left to do any good. I made the decision to oversize to 7/16 and tap. got 3/4" of solid threads doing it that way, and I fell that should be fine.
STILL have not finished filling the steering pedistal.. but at least I *think* I got all the broken bolts and studs out that i can find.
well, finally finished lubing the steering pedistal. then started to look at the front wheel hubs.. hub ont he left appears to be from a later model.. it has the small cast in ears with a grease fitting between them like my 5000 does. also someone had drilled the cap for a zerk and proke it off. i extracted it and instead installed an inverted hex 1/8" pipe plug. while down there I notices some play in the right side so jacked her up toinspect and repack the front bearings. both sides had 2-part repair nuts on them.. and I'm not sure why.
left side had perfectly good threads.. right side had the first few threads wore down, but the threads after that were fine.. a castly nut would have had NO issues holding it all together. oh well.. cleaned it all up, packed and reassembled. front end is decenlt tight now.
decided it was time to start taking the beat up tin apart and salvage those doglegs. removed the gas tank tied tot he hood with a garden hose and bailing wire... set it safelt FAR aside.
got the o/a bottles out and started on the hood. there was some brazings on the outside connections, and the internal flanges were tack welded every few inches.
got it all apart.. and Imust say.. I am getting DARN good with that torch. glad I got it. so far it is my favorite tool purchase this year. one thing though. I did find out that once you torch the doglegs off the hood, and then you go to rotate the hood around to get the other side.. don't let the inside of yer right arm contact the hood near the warm spot! Yep.. it was so hot outside today I didn't wear my welding jacket.. only my long welding gloves.. got a nice half dollar round spot burned on the underside of the right forearm.. dropped the torch! torch stayed lit and landed right on the hoses!!.. snatched it up quick.. man.. that woulda been bad.. oh well.. no melted hoses.. but Imust say.. I won't have hardly any grinder work on the doglegs... I torched them out nearly perfectly.. I'm still tickled with myself..
that was pretty much it for today.. had to go in.. wash up wrap the arm and get to work!
today I had to do some mowing after work, so I decided to make a mod to the flex-link on the top of my 11yr old KK hog.. I added the lil tab on the U link so that it could not flip all the way down forward and bind. the newer ones already have this.
that lil bit of cutting used up all my oxygen .. which was 99% depleted when I was cutting apart the tin on my 950 the other day.
used the angle grinder to clean up the cuts and finish getting the doglegs free.
cleane dup the sat pieces and chased their threaded studs... tried to braze an ear back on the cast aluminum pedistal mount where one had a broke ear.. but no good.. i think the porous cast was just to oil contaminated.. no biggie.. I can make it work with a custom made washer and tab.. only a part of the bolt hole is broke out.
greased all the lube fittings on the tractor.. and that was about it.. waiting for parts before I can do much more usefull work on it.
decided to clean the fuel system on the 740 since I had it out to mow.