The loud whine is most likely the starter turning but the bendix did not retract the gear into the ring gear. Happens some times. Obviously if that is all you get or it becomes too persistent you will need to pull the starter. It seems from your description that it is fuel related, but have you checked to see if you are getting spark? Either with an inline spark tester or you could remove a plug and lie it so that it can contact a grounded surface. Crank it over and see if you have a good spark jumping from plug to ground. Once you are sure of that you can focus on the fuel delivery.
9n sat for a couple of weeks and now won't start
Guys, hi, and thanks in advance for any advice.
So, I am a real noob when it comes to tractors and the internal combustion engine, in general.
I needed something to haul logs from the woods, so a neighbor sold me a 1945ish Ford 9n 6 volt
It ran well enough when I was testing her out. Drove it home. The carb was leaking, I knew this, but was keen to get stuck in and learn a thing or 2. I was busy with house repair, and let the tractor sit for a couple of weeks. Yesterday I took the carb off, gave it a good clean. The float needle seemed a little sticky. I have a new one on order, but reseated it as best I could and so far, the leaking is drastically reduced/addressed
However, when I went to run her, she just wouldn't bite. Starter works, belt drives the shaft, but no spark or explosion, best as I can determine. I put in new 437, and then 216 plugs, for less resistance and a smaller gap. When I hit the ignition with the new plugs, I hear a loud electrical whine the first time, but no crank. It cranks after that first try however.
On 2 occasions, once today and once yesterday it almost coughed into life, very briefly.
I drained the carb, took the plugs out, added some oil to the plug holes, I can feel compressed air coming out of the holes when I turn the ignition on. I even tried warming the plugs with a lighter.
Battery reads at 6.3, so seems fine. It was a new one too, I am told.
So, where do I go from here? What is next on the list of things to try?
I have already looked over one or two threads related to engine flooding and hard starting and tried all I could find from those.
Thanks again guys. Really hoping to get her operational soon. I have many logs to haul!
Benson
So, I am a real noob when it comes to tractors and the internal combustion engine, in general.
I needed something to haul logs from the woods, so a neighbor sold me a 1945ish Ford 9n 6 volt
It ran well enough when I was testing her out. Drove it home. The carb was leaking, I knew this, but was keen to get stuck in and learn a thing or 2. I was busy with house repair, and let the tractor sit for a couple of weeks. Yesterday I took the carb off, gave it a good clean. The float needle seemed a little sticky. I have a new one on order, but reseated it as best I could and so far, the leaking is drastically reduced/addressed
However, when I went to run her, she just wouldn't bite. Starter works, belt drives the shaft, but no spark or explosion, best as I can determine. I put in new 437, and then 216 plugs, for less resistance and a smaller gap. When I hit the ignition with the new plugs, I hear a loud electrical whine the first time, but no crank. It cranks after that first try however.
On 2 occasions, once today and once yesterday it almost coughed into life, very briefly.
I drained the carb, took the plugs out, added some oil to the plug holes, I can feel compressed air coming out of the holes when I turn the ignition on. I even tried warming the plugs with a lighter.
Battery reads at 6.3, so seems fine. It was a new one too, I am told.
So, where do I go from here? What is next on the list of things to try?
I have already looked over one or two threads related to engine flooding and hard starting and tried all I could find from those.
Thanks again guys. Really hoping to get her operational soon. I have many logs to haul!
Benson
1 - 11 of 72 Posts
you can simply take a plug out and lie on the head with the wire attached. You should see a spark
Do you have the original Marvel-Schebler carb or a replacement knockoff? Maybe snap a picture. The knock off are famous for leaking and running terrible. I picked up a non-running 9N last fall and the PO had put a knock off on it. When I got it running this summer, that carb leaked and I could never get it working correctly. I got my hands on an original rebuilt one, and from the second I put it on, the tractor purrs and responds great to the throttle.
Of course make sure that you have good fuel flow from the tank. I assume if it was leaking you do, but don't want to overlook the obvious.
Of course make sure that you have good fuel flow from the tank. I assume if it was leaking you do, but don't want to overlook the obvious.
I watched your video and one thing jumped out at me. On my 9N and all others I have seen you have to hold the choke out. It springs back if the know is let go. Not your starting problem unless something is not connected correctly?
So please clarify. Will it stay running with the choke on? Can you try starting it with a little more throttle to start? Usually if an engine runs only with choke it is an intake leak or carb is dirty/ mal adjusted.
One other thought. Pull the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb to make sure the bowl is filling. You mentioned that the float needle was sticking.
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So please clarify. Will it stay running with the choke on? Can you try starting it with a little more throttle to start? Usually if an engine runs only with choke it is an intake leak or carb is dirty/ mal adjusted.
One other thought. Pull the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb to make sure the bowl is filling. You mentioned that the float needle was sticking.
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Sounds like it is starving for gas
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I see what looks like someone over torqued the seat with a screw driver deforming it. I can't tell if that is impacting the movement of the needle. If it was stuck closed he would not get it to run on full choke. It certainly could be cleaned up with a small file or Dremel tool. Last week I was working on a small carb on a little K161 engine and the needle would not consistently slide. My needle had 3 sides that touch the sides of the seat. I used some 400 grit sand paper and cleaned up all three sides. Really didn't do much more than polish it. Works perfect now. Going back and looking at the picture and it looks like the gasket might need to be flipped around. Some times they line up better one way. It could also be the way the picture was taken.do you see the buger i saw in the seat? that needle is stuck closed
Bill
yes there is a ballast resister, mounted up on the back of the dash
If you do the test that both Vigo and I suggested ( remove the drain plug at bottom of the bowl you will see if you are getting good flow and if the float/ needle is hung up
I doubt it is a bad coil if you say that it runs OK choked.
I just did the plug wires and a new harness on my 9N during a restoration. I also have the conduit. I just taped the new wire to the old end to end and pulled them through. Just make sure to use plenty of tape and push and pull the wires.
Why are you trying to remove the fuel tank?
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Why are you trying to remove the fuel tank?
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1 - 11 of 72 Posts
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