[SOLUTION]

I started roughing out a cab design for the 990.
I am looking for some general input.
Right now I plan on using 1" square tubing .065 wall for the frame and the door will be made of 3/4" square tubing .065 wall.
I have a JD Squared model 3 bender and will be making some square tube dies in the needed radi.
I have'nt decided what to skin it with, maybe Aluminum, Fiberglass sheets, or some sort of plastic like ABS.
I plan on using either VHB tape or panel bonding adhesive to hold on the skin.
I also need to source a Windshield wiper.
I came up with a heat exchanger Idea, which consists of a copper coil wrapped around the exhaust, going to a modified rear heater from a Suburban.

Criteria for this design:
1. Has to be able to be mounted with one person.
(Hinged rear, two bolts in front)
2. Needs to have provisions for opening the hood.
3. Needs to not damage any sheetmetal.
4. Needs to be warm

Scott

 

[SOLUTION]

I'm having trouble posting the sketch, hold tight

Scott

 

[Tractor-Holic]

If you build that heater,make sure to incorperate a expansion tank or pop off valve!..I know a guy who made a heater like that and was severely burned when the copper tubing exploded,when the water turned to steam,and the pressure had nowhere to go!..he never thought about adding a pressure relief valve or a expansion chamber..

This was on a wood stove in his garage,but the same principals apply,he wrapped copper tubing around the stove pipe right where it exited the stove..he used a FWD car radiator and electric fan as the "heater core"--it was working great too,until it blew up..later on when I asked him if he'd used a pop off valve,he said he figured the radiator cap would release any excess pressure,but I guess it didn't..one side of his face is all purple and swollen permanently now..

 

[SOLUTION]

Good point, maybe a person should just vent the puke tank to atmosphere and run no pressure.
Would that work?


Scott

 

[Tractor-Holic]

I'm not much of a plumbing expert,but I think if you wanted it to circulate by thermosyphon (hot flowing to cold natuarlly without a pump) it has to be a close system under pressure..in theory the radiator cap SHOULD have released the excess pressure in the case of the guy I told about,but for some reasoon it didn't..you might have to rig up a circulation pump and plumb it up like a car cooling system ,and have an expansion tank or chamber to accept any excess pressure build up..

It might be easier to rig up a manifold "heater box"like a model T or air cooled VW had ,and use a blower or fan to push the heated air into the cab..I doubt either way your going to get much heat anyway,from a one cylinder engine..my VW was an icicle and it had 4 cylinders and though the heat coming off the heat exchangers was impressive,by the time it got to the windsheild and front of the car it was an ice cold breeze!..

One guy locally who built a home made jeep looking body that fit over a Craftsman tractor he plowed with ,that had a full cab,ran a car muffler and the exhaust pipe inside the cab and out through the roof,and claimed it threw a lot of heat and kept him warm--but he also ended up touching it often while raising and lowering the plow and melted his gloves and parka on it too,so he added an electric lift to the plow blade..

 

[blacksmithman]

I would try to make the sides out of wood,plastic or canvas . Metal would hold the cold inside the cab until it gets heated. My 2 cents The idea sounds great. Hope to see some pictures in the future.

 

[DouglasMorency]

I would try to make the sides out of wood,plastic or canvas . Metal would hold the cold inside the cab until it gets heated. My 2 cents The idea sounds great. Hope to see some pictures in the future.

Cover the sides withe fleece or spandex and then paint it with resin, the same way they make subwoofer boxes for car stereos.