My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have an 8n and the radiator has a leak and has very rusty water inside.

When I drive it , It will start and run for about 10 -15 min and then shuts off and will not crank again until the next day.

2 Questions.

1. do these tractors have a shut off mechanism if the engine gets to hot?

2. Does anyone have a recommendation on where I find a new radiator?

Thanks
 

·
Retired - Veteran Mod
Joined
·
6,791 Posts
:MTF_wel2:

There is another active thread out here for similar issues...

Does your 8N have a front-mount or a side-mount distributor?

10-15 minute run-time indicates (from an electrical standpoint, anyway) a bad condensor or bad ignition switch. The extended cool-down time could point to a bad coil, as well.

Of course... I'm not sure what all you may (or may not) have tried when it dies... there exists the potential for a fuel delivery problem, as well.

1. do these tractors have a shut off mechanism if the engine gets to hot?
No. There is no thermal protection for these tractors.

2. Does anyone have a recommendation on where I find a new radiator?
The 'general' recommendation is to attempt to have your existing radiator repaired... if you can find a local radiator shop that can (and will) do so. Your cost will probably be similar to the cost of a new radiator. On the subject of new radiators... costs will vary... IF (yes... that's a big "if") you can find a radiator made in the US... it will cost considerably more than one made "somewhere" overseas. I've heard complaints of radiators from China and/or Turkey not fitting properly. Ireland is (I believe) another source country for replacement radiators.
As to where to find them... Steiner Tractors and Grand Valley Tractors are both advertisers here and will stock radiators. Just8Ns is NOT an advertiser, but... will have them as well. You can generally find them on eBay as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,765 Posts
Greetings JNoel. When it cuts off after running 10-15 minutes did you mean to say it won't "crank" or it won't "start" .......? Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,674 Posts
Since you say it has very rusty water in it I do believe it is time for a flush. Steve covered it pretty well, try to find someone to R&R yours and if you do end up buying one then look for one made in Ireland as they do have a better track record for fit and finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK I had a chance to really look things over this afternoon.

The hole I thought was in the radiator is actually the over flow hose that is directed to the bottom of the radiator. So no radiator leak :)

Today it did not crank at all so I checked the carb.

1. I unhooked the gas line from the carb and had a steady stream. So that tells me that the gas is getting to the carb.

2. I hooked the gas line back to the carb and unscrewed the bowl drain screw and a little gas came out but then stopped.

3. I took the carb off and looked around and I guess the needle was stuck closed not letting gas in the carb.

4. I put the carb back together and tried to crack it and nothing. It will turn over but will not crank.

5. I double checked the gas to the carb. I unscrewed the bowl drain screw again and gas had a steady stream.

6. So I took the carb off again because I was gonna bring it home to take it all apart and clean it real good. Becasue I think mabye it has a blockage some where.

7. Then I noticed when I took the carb off that the gas in it looked funny.
and there was liquid dripping out of where the carb bolts to the engine.

I took my fingers and touched it and the liquid beaded up on my oily fingers...
OH NO That is a good sign of water :crybaby:


MY new question is does that mean I have water in my gas tank?
Or is water getting inside the engine somewhere else.?

Thanks
Noel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,765 Posts
Noel . I assume your meaning it was cranking -just not starting , if so one way you can tell if its a fuel problem is to spray a short shot of starting fluid into the intake/carb and see if it starts momentarily if so then most likely it's fuel related (lack of or poor quality like water mixed in maybe).Liquid beading up on a oily furface sure sounds like the posibility of water . drain a sample from your fuel line into a clear glass jar and see what you get . Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,674 Posts
First off lets not jump to the conclusion you have major issues and do some basic trouble shooting. First you have established that gas is flowing to the carb and I hope now have it flowing though the carb when you remove the bowl drain. Good, that has the fuel covered, now have you removed a spark plug wire and checked for spark? Your spark should be bright blue and snappy, if there is none or it is yellow and lazy then you need to check your points and wires, heck just give it a tune up if it is like most tractors it has not seen one in a while. Also while your at it to be sure you do not have a leaky head gasket remove the plugs before you try to start it and see if there is water moisture on them and while at it do a compression check to get an idea of the internal condition of your engine and get back to us.

Oh and your water leak from the radiator could be your over filling it, the water should JUST cover the core any more and it will push it out of the overflow. Or and this is where you need to do the compression test, you have a blown head gasket and it is putting pressure into the radiator.
 

·
Retired - Veteran Mod
Joined
·
6,791 Posts
To add to what has been said...

When you pull the plugs... look for water on them (or rust).
Check the engine oil for signs of water.
Check the coolant for signs of oil.

The water that you saw coming out of the manifold could very well just be condensation... but if it is coolant... then you may have a headgasket problem... if you're lucky (if not, it could be a cracked block).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I will check in to all your suggestions this afternoon and get back with you.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok what I have found.

I checked for spark and nothing.

I took the coil off and the little corkscrew peice that comes down from the the bottom of the black coil box is burnt up.

I went to napa and they had a replacement($83.00) ouch.


A couple questions.

Before I install the new one I wanted to find out what could have caused it to burn up in the first place?

Do the coils just get old and go bad?

What should I look for out for?


The coil that was on it(that burnt up) ran fine for well over year so I would think that all the wiring is right.

I would hate to put the new one on a burn it up too because something else is wrong.


Any suggestions
Thanks
 

·
Retired - Veteran Mod
Joined
·
6,791 Posts
It sounds as though you have (at least a partial conversion) a 12V system.

Depending on the 'completeness' of the conversion... we may have just identified your problem.

There is a 12V front-mount coil available, but... I believe that you still need to use a limiting resistor (I'm kinda hoping that someone who is more familiar with the electricals on a front-mount will chime in here, soon). Without said resistor in your system... then you WILL burn out your coil quickly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,674 Posts
If it is a worker and not a show piece why not convert it over to use a real 12v can coil and save about $70 over the cost of the coil you bought. There is a recent thread on how to do this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Answer to your questions Ken.

YEs the coil spring was burnt up.

No I do not see a resistor that looks like that.

All I see is a small resistor like you would see on an electonic board.
Long and skinny black resistor that is attached to one of the wires that hook into the generator.

I purchased an new coil, hooked up and pulled a plug and turned the key over and it popped me one so I beleive it now has fire :)

I took the carb apart and tried cleaning it out and blew air through all the tiny holes. and hooked it back up but I still cannot get it to crank.

I turned both screws on the carb 1 1/2 turns out like the manual says.


Someone I know said that it has to be gas if you have fire, even if you have a blown head gasket it would still try to crank it would just run crappy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ONe more thing I noticed After I tried cranking it a few times with no luck.

I reached down and touched the negative battery cable at the terminal and it burnt the Beep out of my hand instantly it was that hot.

any suggestions on why the negative cable at the terminal would get that hot?
 

·
Retired - Veteran Mod
Joined
·
6,791 Posts
Cable is hot because of the current draw through it.

Either from excessive cranking or...
Dirty (or loose) connections or...
The cable is too small (or it could be bad... as in corroded or cracking)... or possibly even too long.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top