Oh man, thanks for the advice! And Long Island, I did some testing out there once, tough driving a semi out there, those roads were just wide enough! Even driving a day cab was tough. The trans, 40 weight! Isn’t that too thick for cold weather? I have a bunch of Mobil Delvac 40. And what about the hydraulic system? I have about 8 quarts of Type F trans fluid I couldn’t give away free on Craigslist, is there a use form that on this tractor?
817 advice and tips
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Cool! Howdy neighbor!
I already want a power rotating chute! When I tried the tractor the chute was crazy difficult to rotate. Had a piece of hose (it looked like???) for a makeshift u joint where the shaft takes its turn by your right foot. Is this correct?
I will defer to the experts having never seen an 8171 in person, however, I think it is the original wheelbase, meaning it’s not long. Need help here, but I think the 8179 was the long version of that tractor? I can’t run out and get you a measurement for the overall length as mine is longer and the blower is different.
To your loading question, and I hope you get other ideas besides mine. I have a chineseum folding 4‘x8’ that winces at my 20G. It tilts as well, although that doesn’t appeal to me. When I picked up the 20G with that folding trailer I struggled with the how to tackle it. In the end I chose to remove the trailer from the car, rest it on the coupler, and use a couple of 5 foot 2x8 planks to ramp the tractor straight on from the front of the trailer. I used jackstands on the back of the trailer to be certain I didn’t tip it. I eyeballed my way onto the trailer knowing the tractor is tail heavy. The tractor was facing backward when the trailer was hooked to the car. This also allowed me to be comfortable with the tongue weight on the car. I am going to post this now and go measure the 50 inch deck.
The 50 inch deck with mounting frame and trailing wheels attached is about 36 inches front to back when lying on the ground, but a couple nuts and bolts could get the down closer to 24 inches. Also, because it has a gearbox, it has bump in the middle. Without knowing the size of the trailer you have, I would only be guessing, but I would imagine enlisting the seller, assuming he is somewhat functional at that moment, to help drop the mower in last. Think of it as large card stock with a bump; just slip it in somewhere standing on edge?
My 20 G with a newer blower attached is 9.5 feet long. With a finger in the air I would put the 8171 with 44 inch blower in the 9 to 9.5 foot range; let‘s hope one of the gang here gives you a real number.
I would estimate your load at 1200-1500 lbs. for the tractor, blower, and mower.
My 20 G with a newer blower attached is 9.5 feet long. With a finger in the air I would put the 8171 with 44 inch blower in the 9 to 9.5 foot range; let‘s hope one of the gang here gives you a real number.
I would estimate your load at 1200-1500 lbs. for the tractor, blower, and mower.
I'm pretty sure I used duplicolor 1607. That's pretty close to chevrolet engine orange. Also In the ballpark of gravely orange, though to my eye it's a bit too orange.
I'm not an expert on the 8000s. I'm pretty sure the 8171 is a short frame. Per Steve earlier, it's really a rebadged 817 with a different colored hood and seat pan.
The long frame would be needed if you're using a bigger deck. I've never driven one, but even the short frame doesn't turn on a dime, the long frame would make that even worse. I expect I'll stick with short frame 800s unless something like a 20G falls into my lap.
Per my thread from 10 years ago, it's not hard to convert to a motor. I still use that blower on occasion, it works great. Biggest problem is that the chute isn't super fast, and also has no auto-stop switches. So you have to stop and take 30 sec to put the chute where you want it. Still a net win.
For the manual chute (IOW, all the machines but mine
) it's standard to use a piece of flex hose as a coupler to make the bend from the handle to the chute mechanism.The tractor by itself is just over 6 feet long (assuming I'm right about the 8171 being short frame; IIRC the long frame is 4 inches longer). I know that because I bought my Tundra with a 6-1/2 foot bed so that I could put an 800 series in it with the tailgate up.
With the blower on the front, add about 18-20 inches. You'll want a trailer that's a good 8 feet long. Or be prepared to hang the blower off one end.
Per Early8Q, the deck is about 36 front to back, though you can take the mounting cradle off with a few bolts. But it will also stand up on edge. That's likely easier. Just make sure you strap it all on solidly.
Expect your loaded weight to be close to 1500 lbs. The tractor is 900, the blower is 300, and the deck is about 200. Plus you've got all the driveshafts etc, which probably don't figure in to the above.
There are multiple sources of replacement blades. You want 17" blades, with (I think) a 5/8" spindle size. Measure before trusting my memory. Look on ebay, or just about any lawn and garden outlet. Richard's can for sure hook you up.
When I sharpen them, I don't bother with anything fancy. Just grind them on my bench grinder until I get an edge that's decent, and then grind one side or another until they balance reasonably well.
It’s not just about the turning radius for me, it just feels right in tighter spaces somehow. My 20G is an ’87, so it has the lower steering wheel and seat; it just feels bigger but without loads more power somehow. To be fair though, I’m not about to part with it if the 816 comes milling around.... GAS...
So I’m reading through all the awesome responses...now what’s a 20G? And guys, I just saw another one of these for sale, within an hour of me, super clean with a mower deck and single cylinder 16hp Briggs for $850. No snowblower. No patina (dings and bangs and no missing hourmeter). Thoughts? I need to go find it again and see what the model number was. Engine had what looked like funky exhaust, an angled pipe and a muffler that looked like a puffy watering can spout. Is this correct?
I get what you mean but this trailer is a flatbed with short steel rails on the front and sides, like 8-12 in, and an annoying removable gate at the back held on with 4 bolts
I’ll have to find your old thread if nothing other than fir good reading. I love practical mods! I might try it in like 5 years after I dial everything else in!Per my thread from 10 years ago, it's not hard to convert to a motor. I still use that blower on occasion, it works great. Biggest problem is that the chute isn't super fast, and also has no auto-stop switches. So you have to stop and take 30 sec to put the chute where you want it. Still a net win.
For the manual chute (IOW, all the machines but mine
The G series were the last of the 4-wheel gravelys, at least the ones made by gravely, as opposed to rebadged Ariens. They came in HP from 16 to 24. The 24G is reputed to be totally awesome, but doesn't use the same attachments. A 20G, now . . .
Yeah. They do start trying to follow you home . . .
850 is a decent price for a clean 816S with a (presumably 50") deck. I will confess to not being a fan of Briggs engines, especially the singles. I've had some in the past which have been problematic. But don't just listen to me, there are others here who like them.
Just remember what I said about breeding pairs . . .
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About turning the blower chute, the crank needs to be depressed forward while also turning it, so that the pin which holds the chute in place can clear the stop while the chute is being turned. The crank assy. is spring loaded. When you stop depressing, or pushing the crank forward, it returns to it's locked in position, to lock the chute into place.
The 8171 is a standard frame tractor. I put my mower blades in a vise, and sharpen them with an angle grinder. Nothing fancy.
As John said, the clamped rubber hose part of the chute crank assy. is correct. The blowers all left the factory with them.
John mentioned "Richards". Richard's Lawn and Garden. They are a small family owned, and run place in W Va. Great people, and they know our tractors well. Many of us get our parts from them.
1-800-827-4551
The 8171 is a standard frame tractor. I put my mower blades in a vise, and sharpen them with an angle grinder. Nothing fancy.
As John said, the clamped rubber hose part of the chute crank assy. is correct. The blowers all left the factory with them.
John mentioned "Richards". Richard's Lawn and Garden. They are a small family owned, and run place in W Va. Great people, and they know our tractors well. Many of us get our parts from them.
1-800-827-4551
I’ll be getting some stuff from Richards, the gas cap with gauge is toast, the float is disintegrating with bits in the bottom of the tank and small hole in the cap. The mower deck rod is on the tractor but no driveshaft. I will need to find one if the seller can’t find it. I sent him a picture of what to look for but he didn’t get it, not in the snow.
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