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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of swapping out rear tires when I swap the 816 trans. Rather than have the machine down while I clean up the wheels I have and fiddle with tires, I'm thinking of just setting up a spare set to just bolt on and use, and clean up the others at my leisure.

With 23-8.5x12 tires, is there a wheel which will clear the Onan, without needing to be turned inside out? That's always bugged me. If I'm going to buy wheels, I'd just as soon buy ones which will fit without that trick.

Any wisdom?

TIA . . .
 
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As far as I know the Onan powered machines take the same wheel as Kohler and Briggs machines. I don’t think Gravely had a different wheel....


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Discussion Starter #3
Right, I'm pretty sure gravely didn't. It's the same wheel, but you have to turn it around. I'm hoping to find one that I don't have to turn around.
 

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Right, I'm pretty sure gravely didn't. It's the same wheel, but you have to turn it around. I'm hoping to find one that I don't have to turn around.
Not sure I understand your concern. I just replaced my wheels and was not able to buy new the same wheels GRAVELY originally put on my tractor.

I'm not as well versed on the older riders as I am on the G series, but it is my understanding that the 12" diameter x 7" wide rim has never changed. It has 4.75" spacing on one side and 2.25" spacing on the other.

And again, I might be wrong but my understanding was that all the tractors with twins need to run with the wheels out to clear the engine?

I know I could not reverse the wheels on my Kohler M18 powered 16-G and run them in the inboard or narrow track.

Just my opinion, but looking at the wheels that came on my tractor, they are actually designed for the wider track, with the 2.25" spacing intended to go against the hub, but GRAVELY put them on the single cylinder tractors in the other position for all those years with no problem.

When I did my recent repower on my G, i discovered I had loose lug nuts under my wheel weights and that one wheel was damaged. GRAVELY shoed the part number from my original IPL as available, so I ordered the wheel.

I did not get a 12x7 wheel. I got a 12x8.5 wheel as used on later 18G and 20G tractors. A part that is known to have been used but is not properly identified by any IPL.

So I bought a second one to keep both wheels the same. The increased width is split evenly between inboard and outboard when compared to my original 12x7 wheels.

I would be very interested to see measurements and photos of the wheels in question and see if they are in fact the same as my original 12x7 wheels.

I will post some pictures in a bit.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not sure I understand your concern.
Basically, it's just always bugged me that I have to put the wheels on backwards on the 816. Part of that is that I end up with the valve stem on the inside.

It's not that big a deal. I'll order some standard wheels and be done with it.

You looking for pix of my wheels? I'm pretty sure they're the stock gravely wheels. They look exactly like the ones on my 812. Except that they're mounted backwards :)

If you like I will get the bungie cords which tension the chains out of the way, and snap a couple pix for you.
 

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Gravely1964
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I haven't played with my 817 or 8199 kt yet. But the 818-T I can have them either way, but have to be flipped wide to run chains. which I always have chains on at my place if I can
 

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Basically, it's just always bugged me that I have to put the wheels on backwards on the 816. Part of that is that I end up with the valve stem on the inside.

It's not that big a deal. I'll order some standard wheels and be done with it.

You looking for pix of my wheels? I'm pretty sure they're the stock gravely wheels. They look exactly like the ones on my 812. Except that they're mounted backwards :)

If you like I will get the bungie cords which tension the chains out of the way, and snap a couple pix for you.
My point is that if you look closely at the face of the wheel that goes against the hub, you are not putting them on backwards. They are backwards when they are in the narrow position.

Be careful just ordering what looks like the correct wheel from a generic source, the offset will be different. I tried to look into that and all the info suggested that Miller tire and other sources do not have wheels with the same offset as the GRAVELY wheel.

And as I explained, GRAVELY does not have the 7" wide rim, in fact I may have bought the last of the 8.5" wide rims at their crazy high price.....

I would consider selling the 7" rims pictured below.

Valve stems in, doesn't that make more sense on a machine that likely will have wheel weights and/or snow chain tensioners?

These wheels have been made in other offsets for use with other brands, they have been made with valve stems in, valve stems out.

GRAVELY was happy for many years to put both 23x8.50-12 and 23x9.50-12 tires both on the 7" wide rim despite Carlisle saying the 10.50 tires needed 8.5" wide rims.

Sometime around 1998 they did just that, and started using 8.5" wide rims on 18G and 20G tractors that had always come with 10.50 tires.

This is one of my original 7" wide rims.

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This is the wider 8.5" rim

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The difference is small, but it does "puff out" my 23x9.50-12 tires more than the 7" rims did.

Yes, when I replaced my tires I spilt the difference between the two sizes GRAVELY used.

Later, after buying the two expensive 8.5" rims and getting my tires switched over, I found a set of 7" rims that match the GRAVELY spec. Not sure they came off a GRAVELY, but they are functionally the same as my old ones with only minor visual differences in construction. And they say Firestone and have the same number stamped in them as my originals.

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Looking that the face of that wheel, the lug bolt holes have a boss that sits on the hub, not so on the other side. I can't help think that when this wheel center was originally designed by Firestone or whoever, this was the "hub side", not the other side.

BUT, they seem to work fine either way, so maybe it was designed to be reversed?

I stopped using the GRAVELY lug bolts when I installed the steering brakes on my tractor. Converted over to studs and lug nuts. It was foolish of me to go so long with pulling the weights off and checking things, but the last few years have been busy.

So now the tractor has new wider wheels, which required me to buy new snow chains. And a new Kohler 23.5 HP V twin engine.

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I have plans for a better exhaust.

Sheldon
 

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I should have been more clear about one thing, I know you are potentially looking for wheels with a different offset, but Miller and others do not publish numbers that make any sense. You will not know what you are really getting unless you can measure them in person before you buy.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My point is that if you look closely at the face of the wheel that goes against the hub, you are not putting them on backwards. They are backwards when they are in the narrow position.
Ok, I see what you're saying. I guess part of where I'm coming from is that I've seen similar looking wheels on other tractors, and other kinds of equipment, that had the "domed" side of the wheel center pointing out. And the stem on the outside. So I figured that was standard mounting, and gravely just flipped them around on the 816 for clearance.

Like I said, it's not that big a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope. I'm bowing to the inevitable and leaving the wheels (what looks like) inside out.
 

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I came across this and thought it was interesting in that it indicates valve stems should face out on the 816T.

C8E0A8D1-A404-403C-A156-42F64434659D.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I came across this and thought it was interesting in that it indicates valve stems should face out on the 816T.
Wierd!

I wonder if that's a typo. Check the width specs: The "inboard" position is narrower. Yet that's the one where they say the valves point inward?
 

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Just an idea. What about filling the existing valve stem holes, and drilling new ones on the opposite side?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just an idea. What about filling the existing valve stem holes, and drilling new ones on the opposite side?
Huh. It would be easy enough to weld in a couple little patches . . .
 

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Must be a typo like you said. I hadn’t looked closely at my wheels before and wondered if they would be inboard by mistake, but no such luck.

Interesting idea about welding a patch.
 

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A plug like this looks like it would work too...


Another thought would be to have a valve stem on both the inside and outside.
 

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...or you could just put a second valve stem on the other side. Unless there is clearance problem, it's NBD to leave the other one in place.
 

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Wierd!

I wonder if that's a typo. Check the width specs: The "inboard" position is narrower. Yet that's the one where they say the valves point inward?
That is a typo, no question. The wider track width position has to my knowledge always placed the valve stems in.

Sheldon
 
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