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Discussion Starter #1
So I pulled my mower deck off of my 816 for a little inspection. While checking everything I noticed that the universal in the drive shaft is very crunchy. My problem is that I have no idea where to get replacement parts, or what the part numbers might be. The only thing I can find on the universal is "MADE IN USA". I have the manual for the mower deck, but it only lists the part number for a new drive shaft.
Thanks for any help!

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Walk into NAPA with the joint. If your NAPA is like mine, they sell so many, the one you need will be on the counter, already!! :fing32:

It is VERY common, easily matched up. No # needed.
 

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Most likely it's the standard Neapco joint used in all gravely driveshafts. Current Neapco # is 1-0170 and Spicer 5-170x. Napa number is 338.


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Most likely it's the standard Neapco joint used in all gravely driveshafts. Current Neapco # is 1-0170 and Spicer 5-170x. Napa number is 338.
Thanks for that info, mine are in need of some TLC also.

Alex
 

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I have found that an air hammer makes quick work of u-joint removal. I used to dread removing u-joints. An air hammer makes it easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Richard, thanks for the tip, I've never taken one apart before. I am planing to take it into the machine shop where I work, I know some guys there that have done this before.
 

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Another good way is to spray the joint and knuckle with PB Blaster and let it sit over night. Next day, using a vice, support two of the opposite ears of the knuckle horizontally and hit the vertical knuckle a few cm back behind where the cap to the joint enters the ear. The caps will slip right out like butter. Depending on rustyness, it make take a few overnights of PB Blaster.


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I have found that an air hammer makes quick work of u-joint removal. I used to dread removing u-joints. An air hammer makes it easy.
I guess there is a different tool for assembly?? :dancingpa Those roller bearings would be dancing!!

:dunno:
 

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Another good way is to spray the joint and knuckle with PB Blaster and let it sit over night. Next day, using a vice, support two of the opposite ears of the knuckle horizontally and hit the vertical knuckle a few cm back behind where the cap to the joint enters the ear. The caps will slip right out like butter. Depending on rustyness, it make take a few overnights of PB Blaster.


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Rust?
 

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I guess there is a different tool for assembly??
I use a vise to squeeze my U-joints back together.

I've never used an air hammer to take one apart but it sounds like a good idea. I've always used the hammer technique outlined above, minus the PB Blaster. Most U-joints that I've disassembled have been so greasy that the PB Blaster really wasn't necessary, but if the joint is dry, the Blaster would work well.
 

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I use a vise to squeeze my U-joints back together.

I've never used an air hammer to take one apart but it sounds like a good idea. I've always used the hammer technique outlined above, minus the PB Blaster. Most U-joints that I've disassembled have been so greasy that the PB Blaster really wasn't necessary, but if the joint is dry, the Blaster would work well.
I am at the vise anyway to assemble, so I use the vise to disassemble. I have worried about bending the yoke using the vise to take it apart, I might try using the impact hammer.

If I do not use the vise to take the joint apart, what will I use those big sockets for!!?? :dunno:
 

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That could be a one time scenario, as DJ said most times these u-joints are fairly greasey. I had the long drive shaft and double u-joint to a front mount kit that I had to spray a few times before the u-joints slipped out easily. My rust experience also stems from dealing with u-joints on trucks that have been in place for 20 years.
 

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To get rid of the rust once the joint is apart I use a piece of 1/4" drill rod that has had a slot cut in it lengthwise for about 1" I put a piece of emery cloth in the slot and spin the rod at about 20,000 RPM. The emery cloth takes care of any rust. View it as a high speed flap wheel.

I repaired one driveshaft recently that had a loose yoke. I put the bearing caps in and use Loctite Bearing Mount. That worked well. I love Loctite Bearing Mount. Holds bearings in place and the bond is not too difficult to break loose. It is about the same as a .0008 press fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everyone for the comments; I replaced the bad u-joint last night. Other than finding that the yokes were/are bent it was easy. The new u-joint is a little stiff, I'm assuming I didn't get the yokes completely straight, so I packed it full of grease and see if it loosens up after a little running.
I was going to do some mowing last night but as I started the steering column came out of the rack... That was an interesting feeling...lol. But I got that fixed late last night so I'm going to try again tonight. Wish me luck
 
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