812 clutch adjustment

You have the cam roller type obviously.

A member did a great write up that was put in the sticky section.

It is oriented toward trunnion style, but the basics are the same.

I found it helpful even having cams when I first came across it

http://www.mytractorforum.com/222-gravely-faq-stickies-section/262877-adjusting-gravely-rider-trunnion-clutches.html

Make sure your clutch surface and hub surface are dry and free of lubricants. With the lever in neutral, adjust the clutches using the big nuts on the ends of the plate and make sure your gap is even on both sides. The thickness of the ignition key is right at 0.020" and I find it easier to use than the feeler gauge.

How thick is your remaining clutch linings? Are they riveted? If the clutch material gets too thin with a riveted clutch, the rivet heads can wear into the hub like a worn brake pad into a rotor.

None taken... actually I thought they worked independently from one another... the right side is forward and the left is reverse. How would one side's adjustment affect the other?

Canary Al said:

You are adjusting the clutches (plural) on both sides? Right?

I don't mean any disrespect in asking.

Click to expand...

jpmill said:

None taken... actually I thought they worked independently from one another... the right side is forward and the left is reverse. How would one side's adjustment affect the other?

Click to expand...

This is correct. And yes, there is only 1 clutch on each side exactly how you describe it. I was just checking. If one side is way out of adjustment it might affect the operation of the other. Your reference to "the clutch" prompted my question.

With the engine not running, move the f/r handle all the way forward to the lock-in position. Observe the clutch assembly on the R while doing so. Does the cambered plate move the clutch material against the clutch roller?

Do and observe the same on the reverse clutch.

Start the engine and let idle. Are the clutch rollers spinning on each side?

I believe it is just as simple as the clutch material is pressed into the spinning clutch roller engaging to move the tractor?

No worries, be patient. There are more experienced around than me. We'll help you figure out what's wrong.

jpmill said:

Below are pics of the clutch ... the first one is with the for/rev lever in full forward position... the 2nd pic is the for/rev lever in the neutral position. The tractor doesn't move with the current adjustments. What am I doing wrong?

http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/clutch1.jpg

http://www.jpmill.us/gravely812/clutch2.jpg

Click to expand...

If those two pictures show the clutch with the lever forward and with the lever neutral, then your adjustment is way off. In neither case is the clutch disk engaging the clutch hub.

The picture showing the clutch with the lever in forward is about the gap you want when it is in neutral.

Put the lever in neutral. Tighten the two big nuts (the ones on the two large studs that hold things in place) evenly to close the gap to the thickness of the tractor's ignition key. Try to keep the gap even on each side of the disk.

Once done, before you start the motor, try to engage the lever in forward. It should go in with some minor resistance and stay in gear. Look at the clutch. It should be pressed tightly to the hub.

Put things in neutral and start the tractor. Now try to go forward.

Adjusting the reverse is exactly the same except the gap is supposed to be wider. (Personally, I adjust the reverse by eye, using the forward as a guide.)

I hope this helps.