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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I posted to the Introductions forum but I thought I'd drop an introduction here too, as it's where I expect to be spending the most time on this site. Just before Christmas I bought (really, my wife bought!) a 1974 Ford 2000. It's the bottom-end model with 3 forward gears and transmission PTO, but it does have power steering. Probably we paid too much but the tractor has been serviced religiously, all documented, and comes with 6 spare tires (all used, 3 front, 3 rear) and a roll bar. It has lived its life with a bush hog attached, parked all summer in a now-retired fruit farmer's orchard.

We own five or so acres about 5 miles from our house, and we needed a mower, but really buying an old tractor was a vanity--we like the "look" of it. It'll be stored on the property where there's no utilities, no storage, no shelter, no tools. I've got it in my driveway for now; I've got to at least install the roll bar where I have access to my garage, and I don't even have the roll bar yet, it's waiting for a day I can take a truck to go get it. I had enough on my plate the day I picked up the tractor - it was a 22 mile drive (at no more than 17 mph). I'd never driven a tractor before and it had snowed the day before - it was about 30 degrees out that day.

I'm no mechanic though I can see I'll have to learn. Just glancing at the maintenance schedule I can see at a minimum I'll have to buy a grease gun.

Following are my random thoughts about things:

The tach didn't work when I got it, and the generator bulb either didn't work or went out on my long drive. I've replaced both - it seems the instrument cluster (which isn't original, it's got too many indicators for this tractor) or the tach cable I bought doesn't quite fit. The tach cable is dead center on the back of the instrument cluster and there's a seam in the sheet metal underneath that it bumps into. I've yet to see any motion on either the fuel or temp gauges, but I haven't filled up the gas tank either.

The seller told me he bought special gas from an ag supply place which is actually very near me. He couldn't tell me what it was or why it was necessary, just that he was told he should use it so he did.

Once I got the bulb replaced the generator light stays on, and gets brighter as I rev the engine higher. Searching for information on this problem is what actually got me to this site. http://www.mytractorforum.com/20-fo...538433-ford-3000-generator-light-staying.html I haven't done much testing yet, but I need to get it sorted as there's no chance of a battery tender once I move the tractor out to our property. When I got home from driving 22mi the outermost plug on the generator was just hanging unattached.

The rear arms drop to the ground over a couple days if I leave it. That sounds like it's not too bad, actually.

I added a switch on the work light in back, which was shining at my wife in her car all the way home when we bought it.

There's an oil spot on my driveway under the front.

It got a two-spool hydraulic valve in front of the seat. I'm not sure what that's for.

My mother-in-law added the wreath.

I guess that's all for now. Bye!






 

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Hi again, and welcome (again).

It's the bottom-end model with 3 forward gears and transmission PTO
There are two shifters in that picture. If the main shifter has 3 forward speeds and one reverse, then it is a 6 speed transmission. The shorter shifter is to shift between high and low ranges, so it actually has 6 forward speeds and two reverse speeds. there was a lower end transmission that only had 4 forward speeds and one reverse, and the 4 speed was only available with trans (non-live) PTO. The 6 speed was available with live or non-live PTO.

. The tach cable is dead center on the back of the instrument cluster and there's a seam in the sheet metal underneath that it bumps into.
That does look to be a replacement instrument cluster, but it should be fine in terms of the tach cable lining up. Your tach cable doesn't look like the original style. Mine, which I bought about 7 or 8 years ago, is the same style as the original, which has a spiral metal jacket around the cable, not a plastic jacket like the one on yours. Maybe if you got an original style tach cable it would work properly.

The seller told me he bought special gas from an ag supply place which is actually very near me. He couldn't tell me what it was or why it was necessary, just that he was told he should use it so he did.
Most likely non-ethanol gasoline. Your tractor should run fine on 10% ethanol gasoline, but ethanol can be bad for the carb if it sits for long periods without being run. Maybe, and this is a big maybe, that station sells ag gasoline for off-road use and doesn't charge the road use taxes???? If so, let everyone on this board know about it, as off-road diesel is a reality in some parts of the country, but I've never actually heard of off-road gasoline, even though it's theoretically possible, except at marina's, and their prices are actually higher than regular gas stations.

The rear arms drop to the ground over a couple days if I leave it. That sounds like it's not too bad, actually.
The arms dropping over a couple of days... is that with or without the weight of the mower on the arms? With the mower I wouldn't be worried, but if it's dropping that much without any weight on it then it will probably need the lift cylinder rebuilt on the not too distant future.

There's an oil spot on my driveway under the front.
Can you tell where it's leaking from? Most likely the oil pan gasket, and hopefully tightening the bolts might get to to stop. If not, a new gasket should take care of it.

It got a two-spool hydraulic valve in front of the seat. I'm not sure what that's for.
It looks like they go to a pair of rear remotes, which could be used to power a number of different things, like any implement that has its own hydrualic cylinders, or a hydraulic top link, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are two shifters in that picture. If the main shifter has 3 forward speeds and one reverse, then it is a 6 speed transmission. The shorter shifter is to shift between high and low ranges, so it actually has 6 forward speeds and two reverse speeds. there was a lower end transmission that only had 4 forward speeds and one reverse, and the 4 speed was only available with trans (non-live) PTO. The 6 speed was available with live or non-live PTO.
Yes, it's 6 speed (3x2 forward, 1x2 in reverse) with non-live PTO. I wasn't sure what to call it so everyone would be clear what it was.

That does look to be a replacement instrument cluster, but it should be fine in terms of the tach cable lining up. Your tach cable doesn't look like the original style. Mine, which I bought about 7 or 8 years ago, is the same style as the original, which has a spiral metal jacket around the cable, not a plastic jacket like the one on yours. Maybe if you got an original style tach cable it would work properly.
I pitched the broken cable so I can't look at it. I should know better! I just bought the new one off amazon and I suspect it just has a longer collar at the end. Seller actually gave me the old instrument cluster too, told me the hours didn't move. He threw in everything he could find that related to this tractor - a bunch of rebuild kits, filters, some fluid, and all the old tires.

Most likely non-ethanol gasoline. Your tractor should run fine on 10% ethanol gasoline, but ethanol can be bad for the carb if it sits for long periods without being run. Maybe, and this is a big maybe, that station sells ag gasoline for off-road use and doesn't charge the road use taxes???? If so, let everyone on this board know about it, as off-road diesel is a reality in some parts of the country, but I've never actually heard of off-road gasoline, even though it's theoretically possible, except at marina's, and their prices are actually higher than regular gas stations.
I'll check it out. It's Co-Alliance http://www.co-alliance.com/ just down the road from me. They have a big LP filling depot and you see their trailers of ammonia being pulled through town during certain parts of the year. I'm cheap, but I don't love degunking carbs...

The arms dropping over a couple of days... is that with or without the weight of the mower on the arms? With the mower I wouldn't be worried, but if it's dropping that much without any weight on it then it will probably need the lift cylinder rebuilt on the not too distant future.
Nothing on the arms. I made a deal for a mower today but don't have it yet. I haven't so much as checked fluid levels in the rear end. I'll see how it holds up with a mower on once I've got one.

Can you tell where it's leaking from? Most likely the oil pan gasket, and hopefully tightening the bolts might get to to stop. If not, a new gasket should take care of it.
Just looking and guessing, it's to far forward to be the oil plug, and too far back to be the radiator, so I guess it's probably the oil pan. My father-in-law would say "park it in the dirt." Kind of like how the car talk guys tell people with weird noises to "turn up the radio."
 

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Nice looking 2000 you got there. I always liked that series for I have fond memories of my uncles 5000 down on the farm, same looking tractor only bigger. I agree the special gas was more than likely non ethanol. Around here some places you can buy non ethanol premium at the gas station, its what I use in most of my small engines and has saved a lot of headaches. Get yourself a good grease gun and stock up tubes of grease, these older tractors have a lot of fittings and like there grease not to mention the implements you might be using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Get yourself a good grease gun and stock up tubes of grease, these older tractors have a lot of fittings and like there grease not to mention the implements you might be using.
When I picked up the tractor, the seller was determined to show me every grease fitting on the tractor, along with where the grease came out when you added it. And there's a lot of them. So I just kept nodding. Fortunately he supplied the manual with all the locations listed! Hardly surprising he knew so well: he told me the fittings were all hit every 6 or so hours on the meter.
 

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Your lucky, when I bought my IH 454 there was no manual so the kids and I went on a grease fitting easter egg hunt. Then add the loader on top of the fittings on the tractor and I emptied my grease gun the first time I greased it.
 

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Sounds like you have a gotten a good tractor, take care of it and it will last you for years. Sean has you covered on your questions, I will add that if you do use 10% ethanol gas just treat it with Stabil or MMO. I had issues with the gas (it's all we can get around here) and after I started treating ALL my 5 gal. gas cans with 2 oz. of Stabil and 2 oz. of MMO or ATF all my problems went away.

The other thing I will add, get some kind of shelter for the tractor even if it is just a tarp. Leaving it out exposed to the elements does more damage than all the hard work you could put it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For my future reference, MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil, and ATF is automatic transmission fluid

I just got off the phone with Co-Alliance and they sold my seller 91 Octane, Ethanol-free gas. They don't have pumps; they're delivery-only, and none of the gas stations around (that I know of) sell ethanol-free stuff. So probably I'll be going the additive route.

The other thing I will add, get some kind of shelter for the tractor even if it is just a tarp. Leaving it out exposed to the elements does more damage than all the hard work you could put it though.
Uh oh :hide:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Out of curiosity I opened the rearmost oil level plug, thinking maybe a low hydraulic fluid level would cause the drooping 3-point hitch. This was the square-head bolt just behind my right heel. Brown fluid absolutely gushed out until I got the bolt back in (didn't have an oil pan or anything handy).

The seller told me he had a mechanic check everything over the day before I picked it up, and he said the mechanic checked the fluid level for the transmission but not the rear end, so he assumed they were connected. Looks like the two square-head bolts are at the same height, so that made sense.

So. Are they connected or not, and should I drain it down through that hole, or empty it and start over, or leave it? And, would overfilling the rear axle cause problems anywhere else?

P.S. I've got a tarp over it so JohnW can breathe again.
 

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Rear axle is also the sump for the 3 point hydraulics and it is a separate sump from the transmission. What kind of "brown" was it? If it looked like coffee or chocolate milk, then it is contaminated with water and you should drain it completely via the drain plug under the differential and then fill through the hole that has the large hex head plug that is under your right butt cheek when you are sitting on the tractor, and fill it just until the fluid begins to drip out of the level check hole that you already found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
[EDIT because I'm not sure I mentioned this: The battery isn't charging. Idiot light is lit. Didn't realize when I bought the tractor because the bulb was out!]

Had a nice day today so I thought I'd check the connections to the generator while the kids were playing. Low-hanging fruit for fixing this would be a loose wire! So I grabbed my multimeter (not playing with jumper cables or running the tractor today) and clipped one lead to the easiest (farthest to the outside) connection on the generator. I wasn't sure which connection on the regulator it was supposed to go to but I guess I thought I'd figure it out. Anyway, the connectivity sensor beeped when I touched the power steering pump, the battery tray, basically anything grounded. So I pulled the plug the rest of the way off and checked both the spade coming from the generator and the end of the wire and both of these have connectivity to ground.

I didn't take it off the generator, but the other connection that is visible also "beeped" to ground.

Is this normal?
 

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the filler for your tranny and rear end it the big plug just ahead of your high low range lever right side of the tranny top.
Alleyyooper - That is incorrect. The rear axle, which is also the hydraulic sump, is completely separate from the transmission. The fill plug you describe is only for the transmission. The fill plug for the rear axle is on top of the differential housing under the right side of the seat.

In the three cylinder 1965-1974 thousand series tractors the transmissions and rear axles were always separate sumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, I looked at some of those wiring diagrams, and it appears that each of the two connections on the generator should connect to a different terminal on the regulator. I haven't been able to determine, though, if there is something in either the generator or the regulator which would cause both of those wires to also indicate connectivity to ground. And if not, what problem does this indicate.

(I've got the hydraulic/axle fluid to replace but I'm waiting for some better weather)
 

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I'm not sure on the generator/regulator wiring, but I am pretty sure that you won't be able to figure out much with a multimeter set to "connectivity", which is just a cheesy way to say "somewhere near zero ohms". The generator itself is just a coil of wire that spins relative to fixed magnets, and the coil moving relative to the magnetic fields is what generates the voltage. When the generator is not spinning, the coil should measure close to zero ohms from one end to the other, as the only resistance to a DC ohmmeter would be the resistance of the length of wire in the coil, which should be close to zero. So the "connectivity" from from both sides of the generator coil would be the same relative to any other point in the circuit like ground.

In other words if one side of the generator is grounded then the other side of the coil will cause your meter to beep as well when you touch it and ground while your meter is set to "connectivity".
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you for that information. I actually found this forum because of the post here, which I'll attempt to follow next time I have another nice day. When I drove this tractor the 22 miles home, one of the wires from the generator came loose, so making sure that everything was hooked up right was my only goal yesterday.
 

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You may need to clean the wires a little so you can see the color and the trace color if it has a trace color.
 

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For the rear axle/hydraulics in the rear of the tractor, you need to check the fluid level when it is level and also with the hydraulic arms all the way up. With arms up, it pulls fluid into a reservoir and this is when you check the level. Maybe it was filled before it was sold and you opened the check plug with the arms down causing fluid to leak out. When you drain it you put the arms down for a more complete exchange of fluid. You refill it to the check plug, then lift the arms and add more fluid till fluid comes out the check plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I replaced the regulator today and voila the battery is now charging. The warning light popped in the process, though, so I had to pull off the dash again. And broke one of those little sheet-metal clips that hold the screws. Rats.

Also picked up the ROPS from the original seller; I'm not sure what to do with it. It's a Ford New Holland 18-024 A/B for a bunch of tractors that are bigger than mine. I could try hooking it on anyway - at minimum would have to drill new holes... or maybe I'll try finding someone to swap with.

Found another leak today, this one from a right-side power steering piston. The different fluids are starting to blur together on my driveway.

Also the seller remembered where he had stashed the anti-sway bars and gave me those.

I have a quick-connect overrun coupler on order.

One day soon I'll actually start using this silly thing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Made some progress yesterday. I placed an (expensive) order with Bare Co and installed a roll bar and PTO guard. Not fun cracking the old fender bolts. Also can see the overrun coupler.

IMG_20160425_171443176.jpg
IMG_20160425_171455321.jpg

Next job is to fix this:

IMG_20160425_171511904.jpg

A new switch and gasket is on order. Always something!

Plus I have to get the grease out of this girl's shirt :rolleyes:

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