7268 crank seal

Yes, they're referred to as oil seals on the parts diagrams. Toro/LB p.n. 611396 (purchased so many times I've memorized the p.n. - there's a symtom...)

Go to your local shop and give them that part number. They'll appreciate the sale plus Parts Tree's shipping on two seals will not be economical. If you don't have a LB dealer nearby, the NAPA p.n. is 704001. Yes, you can get LB parts at NAPA. $2.99 ea.

Good Luck!

Charlie

lhead said:

Yes, they're referred to as oil seals on the parts diagrams. Toro/LB p.n. 611396 (purchased so many times I've memorized the p.n. - there's a symtom...)

Go to your local shop and give them that part number. They'll appreciate the sale plus Parts Tree's shipping on two seals will not be economical. If you don't have a LB dealer nearby, the NAPA p.n. is 704001. Yes, you can get LB parts at NAPA. $2.99 ea.

Good Luck!

Charlie

Click to expand...

Ok thanks! So I should go ahead and replace the top seal too? I know how to get to the bottom but i'll have to look into replacing the top.

We do have a Toro dealer, but mention anything lawnboy to them and they fall apart...not sure why they are so unwilling to help you out with lawnboy stuff. They had a pile of NOS Lawnboy stuff in the middle of the floor (literally a pile, like they were thrown there). Bags/Blades..etc, I bought it all at $3 ea.

I'll try them out though, if not we do have a napa dealer too.

Replace both of them and be done with it.

Tips -

Clean and polish the crankshaft below the lower seal. It will help the new seal not to get snagged on anything when installing.
Wipe a little ATF (trans. fluid) on the inner surface of the seal before installing.
Use a short piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe to drive the seals squarely into their bores. Drive the seal flush with the edge of the casting only, no further.

Good Luck!

Charlie

Mine did the same thing,lower seal was about 3 inches down on the crank.
Has never had any engine work done to it.
I used it about 3 hours straight 2 weeks ago and seemed to be losing power in heavy stuff.
So I tossed it on the bench, overhauled it.
It was missing a muffler plate bolt,one head bolt and one head bolt was loose.
Piston and cylinder looked great.
Runs real good now, still in my opinion one of the best mowers we ever built.
Good luck with it.

lhead said:

Yes, they're referred to as oil seals on the parts diagrams. Toro/LB p.n. 611396 (purchased so many times I've memorized the p.n. - there's a symtom...)

Go to your local shop and give them that part number. They'll appreciate the sale plus Parts Tree's shipping on two seals will not be economical. If you don't have a LB dealer nearby, the NAPA p.n. is 704001. Yes, you can get LB parts at NAPA. $2.99 ea.

Good Luck!

Charlie

Click to expand...

Good-part numbers are always helpful ...our napa seems to have everything I through at them for LawnBoys.

lhead said:

Replace both of them and be done with it.

Tips -

Clean and polish the crankshaft below the lower seal. It will help the new seal not to get snagged on anything when installing.
Wipe a little ATF (trans. fluid) on the inner surface of the seal before installing.
Use a short piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe to drive the seals squarely into their bores. Drive the seal flush with the edge of the casting only, no further.

Good Luck!

Charlie

Click to expand...

So you don't push it all the way up to the bearing? I'm replacing a lower bearing on a f141 and it seems it will freely slide all the way up with no effort. Am I doing something wrong? The one I was replacing slid down to the muffler and crankshaft support, the mower still ran but I had allot of oil dripping off the bottom of the muffler on the floor.

Evinrude said:

On mine flush with the edge happened to be as far as it would go, I got the seals replaced and it's back to running like a champ.

Click to expand...

My 7268 is an odd bird. It runs pretty well with the lower seal out (it's popped out twice now). The only real indication that the seal is out is that the governor quits throttling up and and it has to be choked to start even when warm. If you just mow normal grass that's not overly tall. You'd never know the seal had popped out. The bottom bearing must be sealing pretty well.

Orangedotfever said:

It runs pretty well with the lower seal out (it's popped out twice now). The only real indication that the seal is out is that the governor quits throttling up and and it has to be choked to start even when warm. If you just mow normal grass that's not overly tall. You'd never know the seal had popped out.

Click to expand...

Sounds exactly like what mine was doing, only with mine every one in a while it would really smooth out and then die, I would then have to pull and pull before it would start back, a new seal fixed that problem though.

Hi! Here is a link to some pictures I took showing the seal installation, upper and lower. Obviously, hand tools will work with some patience.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=256557

If you look at the seal installation tool in the picture showing the top seal install you will see it is not flush, but has a stepped lip on it. This lip allows the tool to be driven in until the lip hits the block setting the seal at the proper depth. This depth is 3/32 or .09 for reference. If you use a piece of pipe to drive the seal in just measure 3/32 and put a mark on the pipe and drive the seal in to the mark. Bill