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Quit IT - grow Potatos
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
7.6 Convertible 'C8' - Paint Project #2 - AKA - "Dirt & Snow - Move Aside !"

Just did some work after buying a spray gun from Harbor Frieght - Not the best paint job, but it FEELS GOOD to see that red/orange shine -
( will this stuff ever dry ? - it's been tacky for almost 24 hours !! )

Pictures coming on soon !
 

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Quit IT - grow Potatos
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Re: 7.6 Convertible 'C8' - Paint Project #2 - AKA - "Dirt & Snow - Move Aside !"

First - here is the pre painted condition - After the following:
1. Popping the bolts holding the blade on ( just turning them popped them right off!
2. Taking off the backing plate & steering 'knuckle' - all but one bolt came out.
3. Sanding / Filing / Beating / Grinding and Cursing the rust off of everything the best I could.
RUST CLOSEUP

More RUST

and MORE

The Pre-Painted Plow ( sanded & prepped )
 

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Quit IT - grow Potatos
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Re: 7.6 Convertible 'C8' - Paint Project #2 - AKA - "Dirt & Snow - Move Aside !"

PHASE II - Primer
After vacuuming - wiping everything down with xylene and then another wipe down with TRIPLE ETCH 6877 -
I began the application of Primer ( Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel Primer ) - note to self - use rusty red metal primer next time ! - see comments below -
1. I started with a roller because I thought doing this in the basement might be a good idea -

talk about fumage ! wow - ( so I setup a plastic wall spray booth in the garage )
2. Re-Coat time my A** - somehow the next morning when I got up and wanted to throw a quick recoat on - also wanting to quickly dollop the paint on with a brush and roll it out ( instead of using a tray etc ) - the first coat of paint lifted off in the shape of 20 square dollops when I ran the roller over it - UGGHHH - no pictures of this since I needed to work fast to fix this.
As best I could I loaded up the paint and rolled everything out even though I had a several large track marks - it was one of those times where you have to force yourself to walk away before causing more damage..... then she sat for about a week. I was more ****** than patient.
 

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Re: 7.6 Convertible 'C8' - Paint Project #2 - AKA - "Dirt & Snow - Move Aside !"

Sorry to hear about you paint problems. I call what happened a total finish failure.

Whenever I have had problems with paint it has been due to one or more of the following reasons:

1 - water based paint/primer - never use a water based coating on ferrous metal.
2 - wrong primer-paint combination.
3 - surface contamination - oil, grease, etc.
4 - wrong thinner
5 - old paint

Whenever I had paint lift off the primer, the cause was:
- wrong paint and primer combination
- old paint
-wrong thinner used

The only solution is to strip it all down to the metal and do it again. There is no hope. If it hasn't stuck after a few days, it isn't going to ever stick.

If you bought SW paints, call the store and have the product numbers handy. They will also want to know what the ambient temperature is where the paint is curing. They will tell you what is wrong.

Xylene might be the wrong thing to use with your paint or primer. Does the Product Data sheet say to use Xylene to reduce or for clean-up?

I use either mineral spirits or Naptha to clean and prep the surface. Either is pretty mild and works well.

I stay away from the SW All Surface Enamel primer. I don't like it at all. It is good for projects in the home, but is lousy for machinery or outdoor equipment. It is just too soft.

If you are using Sher-Kem paint, there is a specific primer for that. The primer needed is listed on the Sher-Kem chip chart. If you are using a primer with the SW Industrial Enamel, then I would read what it says on the Product Data Sheet. I don't use any primer at all when I paint with Industrial Enamel. I don't paint Gravely stuff with Indutrial Enamel. I use it to paint machines like Bandsaws, Lathes, etc.

For outdoor equipment I am using SW Acrolon and prime that with the SW Recoatable Epoxy primer. Acrolon is a Urethane paint and is very hard (3H).

If you are using Sher-Kem, use the optional hardener. Not only does in make the paint harder, it also removes the recoat time restrictions.

If you are using a paint from Tractor supply and a SW primer, then I would say with a high degree of certainty that the paint-primer combination is the cause. The solution is obvious.

Sorry that your job turned sour. It happens every now and then when using a new product. On the plus side, stripping that fresh paint off should be easy. Spray or brush the remover on and then hit it with the power washer.
 

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Re: 7.6 Convertible 'C8' - Paint Project #2 - AKA - "Dirt & Snow - Move Aside !"

Red oxide primer may help deter rust but I have never been able to see any difference. I don't paint bridges either so take it for what it's worth.

I have part of a cast iron machine stand that measures about 1 ft x 3 ft. I stripped the paint off off it and let it sit outside for about 9 months. It got nice and furry with rust. I then took that stand and gave it 2-3 coats of SW Sher-Kem enamel. No primer. No surface prep. Nothing at all.

I then took that stand and leaned it up against the fence. That was about 3 years ago. I looked at it closely last month. No rust on it at all. Apart from the surface dulling slightly, it looks the same as it did when I painted it.

I don't recommend painting steel without a primer nor do I recommend painting anything that brilliant Gravely red/orange without a primer either but I think red oxide primer is sort of pointless provided that the paint remains intact. It could also lead to other issues such as color matching problems with the brilliant red that is used on Gravely equipment.

If you have to use a primer, use what is recommended. Mixing paint and primer could lead to a complete finish failure or color matching issues. Color match in this case means that the color comes out different than what is expected.
 
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