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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 62 deck that came with my "new" 2005 X585. Unfortunately it appears to have seen some weather and little maintenance, so I am going to rebuild it before spring arrives.

Looking at the JD parts page, it looks like they upgraded some things on the deck starting in 2012, SN 300,000. This includes a different belt, V grooved sheaves replace the flat idler and tensioner pulleys, and a different tensioner spring and mount (bushing) are used.

Looking at my deck, there is evidence of the belt slapping around, a well as wear on the belt from the original flat pulleys. My idlers are pretty much beat and need replacing so I am going to update the drive train on this deck to the latest configuration.

The last picture shows a mockup with the new belt, spring, and sheaves. The new spring is shorter and heavier, but would not fit over the new bushing that I received. The old spring does fit. For now I am using the old spring bracket. I might try turning a groove in the busing so I can use it.

I have seen the old and new belts listed with the same lengths, but the new one appears to be about 1" shorter, measured around the outside. The gap between the tensioner and the bumper also decreased from 2-1/4" to 1-1/4" with the new belt and sheaves. I am not sure if this difference is due to stretching of the old belt.

If someone has a picture of the newer tensioner configuration it would be interesting to see how Deere sets it up.
 

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There wasn't any instructions for the upgrade.The dealer should or could tell you how and what they do to bring it up to the new specs.
 

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Yep looks like you identified all the parts changed out at SN 30001 and above. If you have a TM for your deck and it is current you might find instructions in there for updating it. Also the JD dealer you bought the parts from might give them to you if you ask.
 

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Curious :wwp: of the tractor........and what we are all wondering, how much $$$
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here are pics of the tractor, which I bought with the deck for less than $5K.
It has 380 hours, got it from a local repair guy who was flipping it.
He had it for several months, was an end of season deal.
I'll be going through this completely as well as it had no maintenance records.
Eventually I'd like to put on a 3PH and get as blower for it.

I've got the TM PDF for the tractor, which has some information on the deck.
 

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Good deal and low hours looks to be in good shape.
 

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Looks like you got a good deal. How did the repair guy end up with it? Was something broke on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There was nothing wrong with the X585 that I am aware of, other than a questionable maintenance history. Given the shape of the deck the PO did not own a grease gun, so I am assuming worst case.

The guy I bought it off of does tractor repairs and service as well as some small number of trades and sales. He had picked up a X585 and a X595 from someone who was moving up to some bigger equipment. The X595 was even cheaper but it was in tougher looking shape and had a broken hour meter, so no idea of usage. He may still have the X595.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Next thing to do was to fix the gage wheels. The originals were severely worn from lack of lubrication, so I ordered the full rebuild kits (AM125172). Note that they don't include the little hubcaps in the kit.

The rebuild kit includes axle bushings that are intended to be bolted on, but my originals were press fitted and swaged together. Using a vice and a large pipe wrench, I was able to twist off the old axles and then drill out for M8 hardware. You will need a drill press to do this and do it in a couple of stages. The swaged steel is rather tough.

Don't even think drilling out the new axle bushings for larger 3/8" hardware as they are hardened. (Don't ask how I know...).

I ended up using M8 x 90mm bolts but the locking flange nuts don't have enough thread to fully lock so I hit them with some red loctite. If using 100mm bolts you might need to cut or grind them down a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now the gearbox...

Note that the drive pulley fits onto a tapered shaft and is retained by a **left** handed bolt. There is no shaft key; its friction driven. You'll need an impact wrench to get the bolt out, and a gear puller to loosen the pulley. I used a couple of short bolts through the holes in the pulley as it took some force to get it loose.

The shafts were cleaned up before the old seals were pulled. I used a drywall screw to get them out; they did not resist much.

I used electrical tape on the keyed shaft so the new seal would not get damaged. New seals were lubed on the inside and tapped in using a large socket.

I am thinking about modifying the drain plug to hold a small magnet.
Have to get my little mini lathe setup first...

This gearbox was supported with rubber bushings that were completely gone, allowing metal to metal contact. I am going to try making some replacement bushings out of polyurethane.

I'll be using that Redline Shockproof Gear Oil to fill it.
 

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Can I suggest something,

Take everything completely off of the deck, spindles and everything, so you have nothing but a metal shell. Wet sandblast the entire deck with a pressure washer sandblasting attachment. Repaint with John Deere paint. You CAN rebuild these decks and make them look completely brand new if you dedicate a little time and a little extra money.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the suggestion, but this is going to be a working deck as I have 2+ acres to mow, so I'm going for the mechanicals first. The original paint is actually not too bad, and would probably clean up with some turpentine. The spindles will be coming off for a rebuild too.
 

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The shell don't look all that bad, looks like the paint is holding up good, I've seen some missing patches of paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was asked what parts are needed to upgrade the drive train to the newer style. Here is what I think I ordered. Its most of the parts labeled 300000 and up.

M163991 Later model belt
AM136357 Newer V sheaves (2 required)
TCU27776 Tensioner spring
M139145 Bushing for spring mount (need to modify with grinder and/or dremel)
M146490 flat washer (might need 2, not sure)
19M7803 Longer tensioner pulley bolt

I think that's it.

You can probably use the old spring mount, I suspect the bushing got put in there to save some money and eliminate a custom fabbed part.
 

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:thanku: tractorPete for posting the part numbers. I was looking at the pics in your first post and I'm amazed at the difference in size of the Tensioner Springs. How is your upgrade coming along? Finished? Any pics? :trink39:
 

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Not sure if this helps but thought I would throw it out just in case. It's my 62C that i bought new in Oct. 2012
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Interesting...

It looks like they also got rid of the rubber isolator mounts for the gearbox, which seem to be problematic on older units.

I read elsewhere that the gearbox was improved on newer models and made quieter. Maybe they went to helical cut gears, which eliminated the need for isolation.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got my little mini lathe tuned up and ready for action, so it made a great excuse to enhance the deck gearbox oil plug with a magnet to collect any metal debris. These are "neo" magnets, very strong, they measure about .250 diameter by .120 tall. I made a recess about 0.1 deep, .255 diameter.

I'll use a little "sleeve retainer" fluid, just to make sure it stays in there.
 

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Subscribed! Can't wait to see more progress pics, are you going to rattle can it or use a HVLP gun?
 
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