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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got around to pulling the flywheel on the 5665 today. It did not go easy. Attached are a few photos of what I found. All but one magnet is stuck to the stator...odd but this is the first time looking behind a k301 flywheel..shouldnt the magnets be glued to the inside of the flywheel?

I'd be interested in any assessments and recommendations for how to proceed.

Thanks in advance.


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Yes, they should not be like that. That impairs the functioning of the charging system. Google "gluing magnets to flywheel" for a variety of suggestions on doing that if you don't want to spring for a replacement flywheel...

And if that oil isn't from penetrating fluid to get the flywheel off, you might consider replacing the crankshaft seal.
 

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Wow, I've pulled at least 15 flywheels off K241 and K301's and I've never seen anything like that. I'd be inclined to find another flywheel and stator, as it seems you will need magnets. Looks like the flywheel has been spinning on the magnets. I bet you had some funny smells coming from that smoking stator.
 

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Usually when the flywheel lets loose, the magnets come loose at the same time. It is no big deal. Use a little JB weld to glue them back on. Don't overtorque the fastener that holds the flywheel on. I have seen several flywheels lose their magnets. I use a parts magnet from the auto parts store to determine polarity. Be sure the check the polarity in position but before gluing them in place. Check that the other magnets are glued securely. I had one flywheel where all the magnets were loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is exactly what I did yesterday evening, after wire wheeling the inside of the flywheel surface and cleaning the mating surfaces. Polarity was checked. One magnet remained glued in place for reference. Magnets were intact fortunately. Sanded the flywheel bore and tapered/keyed shaft. I'm waiting on a flywheel strap wrench to button it up. 55 ft - lb is what I'm thinking on the torque. Sound correct?

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In my case, I think at least some of the magnets were already detached prior to the flywheel pull, as I've had the classic rubbing sound when turn in the flywheel by hand for some time. Engine became very difficult to turn over. Thought I had a weak starter, but replaced it with a known good used one and the problem was still there.

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· Gravely 2-wheeler
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I have the same problem with my 5665. One magnet still attached and the rest were stuck to the stator.

The Kohler K series service manual covers several models. For the K301 the flywheel torque is:
Hex nut - 50/60 ftlb.
Hex cap screw - 35/40 ftlb in one part of the manual and 22/27 ftlb in another part of the manual.
The crankshaft taper and flywheel hub are to be clean, dry, and free of lubricants. Threads are to be oiled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Put the tractor back together yesterday evening. Everything went pretty smoothly. Starts and runs nicely now. Need to do a charging system check next.

Also would like to give a shout out to Berlin Gravely who sold me one of their aftermarket stainless steel replacement gas tanks for a 5000 series. My original had failed after a previous owner attempted a duct tape and epoxy repair. The new SS tank is just awesome, true to the original design but with stainless straps and fasteners. You provide your own cap and petcock. Priced lower than a used tank on Ebay. I will post pictures later.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pic of the Berlin Gravely aftermarket replacement 5000 series stainless gas tank:



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Leak was, in fact, coming from the drain plug. Only way I could solve it was to put the original hex bolt back in, which appears to have some sort of nylon coating.

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Put the tractor back together yesterday evening. Everything went pretty smoothly. Starts and runs nicely now. Need to do a charging system check next.

Also would like to give a shout out to Berlin Gravely who sold me one of their aftermarket stainless steel replacement gas tanks for a 5000 series. My original had failed after a previous owner attempted a duct tape and epoxy repair. The new SS tank is just awesome, true to the original design but with stainless straps and fasteners. You provide your own cap and petcock. Priced lower than a used tank on Ebay. I will post pictures later.

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Hi. I'm looking for this fuel tank online. Where might I be directed to? Thanks
 

· Gravely 2-wheeler
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Berlin Gravely 330-893-2421 for stainless steel
[email protected] for 16 ga steel
Richards Lawn and Garden www.gravelyparts.com 1-800-827-4551
Green Acres Power Equipment [email protected] 845-986-0910
Also a Cub Cadet 129 gas tank is the same size and the same filler location.
A life saver! I coated the original tank 10 years ago. That gave up the end of last year and a replacement has been illusive until stumbling upon this old thread.
I'll be reaching out to these contacts. Thanks so much.
 

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I got my new tank from Berlin Gravely in Ohio. $168 after taxes and shipping. It's a great tank. Mild stainless steel tank with welded seams and end plates, stainless straps and bolts, and an interior welded nut for the petcock valve.
Now for the cons...
The 1/8" NPT threading on the valve nut is quite tight. The valve was hand tight with two rounds of thread engaged. I got one more full rotation of the valve with a wrench.
The tank isn't an exact replacement. It doesn't have internal baffles. It's also not the same size and profile. With welded ends, it doesn't have rounded a rounded profile. And it's a little over 1/2" taller than the original tank. This causes the hood to ride on the tank rather than the rubber bumpers at the dash.
I'll have to attempt some modifications to the tank mounts but there's frame bolts directly under the tank that might prevent lowering of the tank mount. It may require "dimpling" the tank to drop between the frame bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I had no issues installing one on a mid 80s 5665. What model are you working on?

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