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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I know this has been delt with on other threads but I'm pretty proud of myself for completing this mod so here is my story and some pics , if I can post them. Any questions, PM me.

Firgelli no longer makes the 4 inch stroke mini actuator with 15 lbs force so I opted for the 6 inch stroke, not taking into consideration that the body would also be longer. The pics will show how much longer and where I bolted the bottom to the chute. Fully open and Closed will not even use the full 6 inch stroke, way overkill but I was concerned about the force issue. again, 15 lbs is overkill, IMHO but it works. I bought a water proof Boat dpdt switch, a little bigger then usual but I wanted a larger switch for gloved hands. so far so good. I used 16 guage wire , again overkill but works great. I also installed a Custom Dynamics, magic block for pos and neg. These have a fuse installed already, and all you do is hook them to the battery post and put your wire end in and lock the orange lever down. DONE. If you want to add anything else, like Led work lights , You just push the wires in , add your on and off toggle switch and DONE. You don't have to go to the battery again . Pics of them and they work. They have four outlets so you have plenty of room. Hopefully the pics will speak for themselves, the thing works, Overkill yes, but I don't think it will fail anytime soon. Thanks for listening to the rant.
Jerry in wisconsin
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
A little more info, I used a button head bolt , that uses an allen head wrench to tighten , instead of a hex cap bolt so the snow would have a smoother surface to run over. Used this on the top and bottom, had to drill out the holes on the actuator and the chute. Nice chrome ones I got at my local Harley Dealer. I wired the switch per the instructions on the firgelli website and the guys on the forum. Basically I just repeated what everyone else has done. Couple more pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
couple more pics of the switch wiring, and the magic blocks. I mounted the switch on the dash , right hand side, above the hydro levers because that is where my hand usually is. Tried to get creative so I bought a lighted switch so I had something else to look at , stupid me, it only lights when you are pusing it up or down and then you hand is over it. Oh well, live and learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The dpdt switch is not down all the way in the dash in this pic. I used a 2 wire trailer plug for the connection between the blower and the tractor. Wire is zip tied to the grill, I used all the right stuff, butt connectors, heat shrink where needed and flex tubing all the way.
As you can see, there is plenty of stroke left , even at full open and full closed. The six inch stroke is just not needed. I don't think that the 15 lbs force is needed either but that is what I bought. Didn't cost me any more. I really just followed the lead on the forum. Bole thru the chute, Nylock nut and washer for a spacer, and Nylock to tighten everything down, although I did leave a tiny bit of slack for movement. Where the hand/star deflector tightner was, I added a plastic washer on both sides so when the deflector goes up and down, it doesn't take off the paint. Left slack in those bolts also. just enough to keep the deflector in proper alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
On the 4 and 5th pic, you can see how far down I had to mount the bottom of the actuator. Just above that lip in the lower chute, but not to far down as to get into the support metal of the inner chute. All in all, not a bad Job if I do say so myself. Was the 6 inch mini, with 15 lbs of force, overkill?? YES. Did I need to use 16 guage wire, instead of 18 guage?? NO, that is also over kill. Did I need to keep all the slack in the wire between the blower housing and the tractor?? Probably not but I wanted to have slack , just in case I would ever need to reroute something. I wanted to make things as take apart as I could. I also put some velcro , instead of the sticky back black hooks on the back of the chute to hold up the wire coming from the actuator into the flex tube to keep it out of the way of the chute left/right movement so snow doesn't get around the thing. Don't know yet how that will hold, we'll see. ( sorry , no Pics of that). So we already used it and it works great. Keeps the snow from blowing into my face as I leave the garage, seeing as we always have a wind blowing right into my face, no matter what direction the snow down the drive is blowing. A great Mod and Thanks to all the guys on the forum who led the way. Now if I can only get my wife to let me get a Cab:crybaby:. How sweet would that be??
Jerry in wisconsin

If you notice another wire coming from the grill, to the left of the flex tube, that is the wire for the Battery Tender Jr. Got 2 of them at my local Farm and Fleet on sale for $19.00 bucks each. One for the Bike , and one for the Tractor. 2 wire quick disconnect. Works great.
 

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You should be proud. It was an excellent mod and write-up. I am sure it feels good having done the job yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies:thanku:. It was great doing it myself:trink40:. A little cold, until I got the heate fired up but great. Now if I can jump into changing out that scrawny 20 amp alt for the 40 amp one I bought, i'll be set:thThumbsU. Soon, very soon.
 

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Looks great!:fing32:

Thanks for sharing the project, pics, and thoughts too! Every one of these is a little different and it is great seeing how it was done with different tractors, actuators, and switch placement.

One question - do you have a fuse inline anywhere?

:thanku::thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi and thanks for the thumbs up. To answer you question, Yes, there is a 5 amp fuse. If you look at the third pic, follow the pos wire from the magic block that is sitting on the John Deere Tag. As it goes down and across that bigger black wire/tube, you will see a little black thing, then more wire. That is the fuse holder already wired in when I got the blocks. It came with a two fuses, they are the barrel kind, not the blade, but the thing just screws apart. I had already bought a blade type but didn't use it. I'll use it on something else. The blocks connect to the battery screws with those little crimp connectors, with the hole in them, (don't know exactly what you call them ) and they were already installed and heat shrinked. The only thing you have to understand is that these blocks are usually used for LED lighting on a motorcycle so the holes for the connectors to the battery are for a smaller bolt. I had to , VERY CAREFULLY, drill out the holes for the bolts in the larger car type battery in the JD tractors. Sorry I didn't think to get pictures of this but if anyone wants to see how they connect, I'll grab a pic or two. The blocks are really neat though. Like I explained, if you have some of the Led work lights or other things you need to power with the battery, you can just use the leads to connect to the blocks, Strip wire, there is a guage on the back of the blocks for correct length strip, insert wire, and lock the orange lever down. You would have to wire in a on/off switch between the item and the block but you would not have to keep stacking the connectors onto the battery bolts themselves and the blocks are easier to get at if you want to change or dissconnect anything. If you want to check any other type of LED lighting for accessories , just google "Custom Dynamics". They don't have anything like work lightst or replacement bulbs, more for Fancy stuff to light up your ride. take care
Jerry in Wisconsin
 

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looks real nice and they work well.

cannot see what type of bolts you used in the the slotted holes, but unless you put a stop on them, they will tighten over time, not good. Also some plastic slip washers are a good idea, like the ones that come with the deere manual spout adjustment.

I run mine with nothing in the holes and it works perfectly fine. Even shooting out 1" stones is not a problem :)

and if your battery is putting out 14.5 Vdc (very common) you can run wipers, lights (aux or headlight but not both at once), chute spout tip and even an electric rotator without an issue!

on my 345, I can run all that and the beacon for at least 45 mins with no battery degradation and no bigger alt, I think folks forget to use 14.5 when making their calculations!






.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey MX!! I just used the stock bolt on the left side, looking at the chute from the back, and a little shorter bolt on the right , where the adjustment star knob was. I put a plastic washer on both sides, on the outside of the chute to keep the paint from rubbing off when going up and down and I used Nylock nuts to keep everything in place with a little slack for easy movment. didn't tighten them all the way and the Nylock nut will stay in place until I put a wrench to them. I did that just to keep everything lined up properly. Working fine so far and I might replace the bolts with the Button , Allen wrench style to get the smooth surface like I used on the actuator. We'll see. Seems to be working alright so far and I only used it once. Just not getting the snow so far. Not that i'm complaining, i'm sure we'll get blasted any time now. Remember my video on YouTube of last year??? ( search, John Deere x495 Blowing snow in Wisconsin) Here's a pic to go along with it. Thanks for the comment
Jerry in wisconsin
 

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That is a heck of a snow drift!!! I think I would have to call in the cavalry with drifting like that. I don't think my X720 with the 54 blade would even make it out of the garge on that one.
 

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Bring on old man winter.
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3 things Jerry-
1. Great job on the install.:thThumbsU
2. There's no such thing as overkill.
3. Snow fences are for guys that only have a shovel. Those drifts should be no match for that big ol'diesel.:fing32:
 

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Bring on old man winter.
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That is a heck of a snow drift!!! I think I would have to call in the cavalry with drifting like that. I don't think my X720 with the 54 blade would even make it out of the garge on that one.
Oh ye of little faith. Don't underestimate the power, ability and agility of the green machine. It would cut through that like a hot knife through butter. :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys for the great comments. I have learned so much from this forum, we don't need no stinking JD dealers. LoL, not really but this forum has a world and wealth of knowledge. Sometimes i can't believe it. As far as the snow fence, I guess I wouldn't have as much fun and that is exactly why I went with the diesel. Working with diesel equipment and driving big diesel trucks, you get the idea of what a diesel can do as far as power. I'm not putting down or bashing gas engines, they're great but I didn't mind having a 5 gallon diesel container around and the torque is what I was after anyway. Can't wait to get into a good snow drift again. this time i'm armed and ready with my mod so bring it on. Oh , the wife said, Maybe next year on the cab, If I behave. Thanks again
Jerry in wisconsin
 

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Nice install Jerry really like those connection blocks wish I could have found something like that when I did my install, I went with the 8 lb actuator will let you guys know if it doesn't work out but it seems plenty strong enough. I also couldn't seem to find a two wire plug that was up my expectations so I went with a lighter socket from the boat yard and a modified shock cord.:thThumbsU
 

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