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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an older 455 yanmar diesel & it doesn't want to start after its been run for a while. The glow plug indicator light will flash on then off real quick or doesn't come on at all, I'll try to start it & all it will do is turn over. After it sits for a while it will start. I just put a new battery in it. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Not knowing the tractor but a little of diesels if it is hot/warm the glow plugs may not be needed as they are to help heat the cly up to fire the diesel fuel when the engine is cold.
Again not knowing the tractor the temp sender for the glow plugs may be bad?

The other thing to check for is it getting fuel? Think from what I have seen posted there is a fuel cut off solonoid. Could this be sticking closed when warm/hot? Dont know how you would go check this maybe it has a shaft sticking out one end to see if it is open/closed?
Dave ----
 

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Went through the same thing. Take the left side panel off. When you turn the key on you should see the fuel solenoid arm move and it should also make a loud click. Mine would move just a little bit and would not start. If you reach down and assist the arm in moving it would start right up. I ended up taking the connections off and cleaning them and spraying Kroil on the moving parts and it has been working fine ever since.
 

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I'll be following this one- I picked up a used 455 not long ago and had the exact same issue where it had to wait a while before restarting. After a very thorough cleaning, all fluids changed, and maintenance completed I haven't had the problem any more. I just found out my temp gauge doesn't work, maybe that would have indicated an over heating problem I rectified by flushing the coolant and cleaning the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Harbi. I'll give that a try also. It starts right up cold but it just seems to be an issue after it warms up. The temp gauge never reads hot so maybe the gauge isn't working properly. The fuel gauge is stuck on half also.
 

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Greenacres,
Did you get it started? Also, as far as the gauges being stuck, you can pull the dash out and remove the bezel. Then put a little penetrating oil at the base of the needle and slowly move the needle back and forth several times. Many people have freed them up this way.
As I recall there are 3 tabs on top of the dash and lift the cluster straight up. Unplug the elwctrical harness and then take it to a bench and lay ot face down. Remove the phillips screws on the back side (cant remember if it was 6 or 8 of them) and lift the plexiglass off the gauge cluster. Many have had to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It will start when it's been sitting for a while. The problem is when it's been running & I shut it off & then try to start it right away. I haven't had a chance to try any of the things suggested but I will & post it. Thank you very much for the help.
 

· Lawn Boys Never Die
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Sounds like the glow plug module is junk. I just replaced the one on my 332 and it starts like new. If the light for it is flickering and acting weird I would be willing to bet its junk. My light did not come on at all.
 

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It's warm now so the glow plugs are not needed anyway. Like someone else said check that solenoid on the injector pump. Make sure it's snapping back all the way. I had to replace mine a few weeks ago. Mine had shorted out and started blowing the control fuse. Yours may just need freeing up. You can unhook the linkage and check the pump arm to make sure its free. And on the solenoid pull the plunger out and clean it up if nessesary. What about your fuel pump. Do you hear it running when turn the key on before you try to crank it over. Has the fuel filter ever been changed?
 

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"Also, as far as the gauges being stuck, you can pull the dash out and remove the bezel. Then put a little penetrating oil at the base of the needle and slowly move the needle back and forth several times. Many people have freed them up this way.
As I recall there are 3 tabs on top of the dash and lift the cluster straight up. Unplug the elwctrical harness and then take it to a bench and lay ot face down. Remove the phillips screws on the back side (cant remember if it was 6 or 8 of them) and lift the plexiglass off the gauge cluster. Many have had to do this."

I have done it several times and I can tell you that it is not Plexiglas but actual glass. I've broken two so that's how I know. I do use Plexiglas to replace the broken glass pieces though. Before you go to all that trouble take a cheap, free at Harbor Freight, volt/ohm meter and unplug the wire/wires to the thermocouple that sends the signal to the temp gauge and remove the sender. With a heat gun or hair dryer put the two probes on the connector and the body of the sender. Set the gauge to ohms and before you apply the heat it should read one ohm. As the dryer gets hotter on the tip of the sender the ohms will begin to fall indicating that the sender is working. If it doesn't work then you can start with the sender first and that might just do it. I had the needle on my temp gauge fall off inside the cluster so I had to take the glass out. JD did not want us to work on these clusters. The one on my X485 is no better but has 8 little prongs that hold the glass in instead of glue so it's a little easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Haven't had a chance to work on the mower yet. Been working a ton of hours. Waiting to work on it this weekend & will let you know how it goes. Thanks again everyone for the help. I really do appreciate it. I'm glad I happened across this site.
 

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It's warm now so the glow plugs are not needed anyway. Like someone else said check that solenoid on the injector pump. Make sure it's snapping back all the way. I had to replace mine a few weeks ago. Mine had shorted out and started blowing the control fuse. Yours may just need freeing up. You can unhook the linkage and check the pump arm to make sure its free. And on the solenoid pull the plunger out and clean it up if nessesary. What about your fuel pump. Do you hear it running when turn the key on before you try to crank it over. Has the fuel filter ever been changed?
Ditto to everything in this post, including having just replaced my solenoid due to repeatedly blowing the control fuse.
 

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Actually these engines are indirect injection, they really need the glow plugs year around. They may start without them, but its a whole lot easier on them to use the glow plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just an update on the fuel gauge situation. I the instrument panel apart, soaked the fuel gauge with PB Blaster, tried working it back & forth & the needle came right off in my hand. It was very corroded. So now I guess I'll be looking for a new panel.
 

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Just an update on the fuel gauge situation. I the instrument panel apart, soaked the fuel gauge with PB Blaster, tried working it back & forth & the needle came right off in my hand. It was very corroded. So now I guess I'll be looking for a new panel.
Yeah, typical problem and really sorry to hear that's what happened. A gauge cluster is pricey but there are some used ones around. Good luck.
 

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After its warmed up shouldn't need glow plugs if engine is warm filter check injection cleaner build up and when warm won't get enough fuel check all sensors when warm may not get go signal may need cleaning if sucking air in system won't start if all other suggestions don't hlp try starting loosen furthest injection line see if fuel leaks out if no bubbles retighten while still trying to start not much else could be I'd make sure getting fuel first it starts on compression if warm no fuel no start hope helpful
 
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