[rmk28027]

I started hearing a noise like a bearing going bad and traced it to the PTO clutch, I think. In getting to the bearings I have a couple of questions.

1. Which bearing is more likely to fail the one on the Pulley Assembly or the Ball Control Plate?

2. Can the bearing in the Pulley Assembly drive be replaced individually or do you have to replace the whole assembly?

3. In looking at the parts diagrams I see a ring that fits on the PTO clutch, Honda part 75119-758-801. However, I can't find a similar ring on the Pulley Assembly. Any ideas on where it is

4. If I have to replace the Ball Control Plate bearing how does the Plate Drive come off?

Thanks in advance

Rick

 

[Tom Bauer]

just replace both bearings. cut rivets and replace with bolts and red locktite. don't worry about the ring. it is actually very easy to do

 

[dlandsv]

I started hearing a noise like a bearing going bad and traced it to the PTO clutch, I think. In getting to the bearings I have a couple of questions.

1. Which bearing is more likely to fail the one on the Pulley Assembly or the Ball Control Plate?

2. Can the bearing in the Pulley Assembly drive be replaced individually or do you have to replace the whole assembly?

3. In looking at the parts diagrams I see a ring that fits on the PTO clutch, Honda part 75119-758-801. However, I can't find a similar ring on the Pulley Assembly. Any ideas on where it is

4. If I have to replace the Ball Control Plate bearing how does the Plate Drive come off?

Thanks in advance

Rick

The 'ring' is a thin piece of spring wire that snaps into in a groove on the outer circumference of the pulley drive assembly.

If you look at the schematic in the link below, the line pointing to the pulley drive assembly (#5) is where the ring snaps into place. I never have been able to figure out what it's purpose is.

I ordered one when rebuilding my 4514 PTO thinking mine was missing only to discover it was already on the drive. It snaps into the groove similar to the way a snap ring fits on a shaft.

hth

 

[rmk28027]

I am having trouble removing the Drive Plate. Any suggestions other then using a gear puller?

Can you run the engine for a short period of time, say 1 minute, without the pulley assembly mounted? If I can't get the Drive Plate off I was thinking about starting the engine and seeing if the noise is still present. If so, than the problem is probably the Control Plate bearing. If it the noise is gone then it is the Pulley Assembly.

Rick

 

[Larry LGT 165]

As Tom says, why not simply replace both while you have it apart. Both bearings are the same age and even if one is currently quieter than the other, do you really want to go thru this again next summer for the second bearing ?

 

[Tom Bauer]

drive plate is just keyed to shaft and a very close fit, penetrating oil and time, it will slide right off but must be very even pull or it will bind.

 

[rmk28027]

Thanks for everybody's comments.

I got the Control Plate off and now have two more questions.

Does the bearing in the Control Plate just press out? In looking at it I assume it just presses out.

What type of bearings should I use? I think I read somewhere that it was suggested to use a sealed bearing on the Pulley Assembly instead of the non-sealed bearing currently used. Is it necessary to use sealed bearings?

Rick

PS The Control Plate bearing seems OK, but as suggested I might as well replace it since I have it out.

 

[Larry LGT 165]

In answer to one of your questions, but not specific to this application, if the installation has a grease gun zerk, then you want a bearing that is unsealed, at least on the zerk side, to let the fresh grease in.

If there is no way to regrease the bearing, probably this case, then you want the bearing to come sealed to retain the factory grease as long as possible........just a rule of thumb.

 

[Tom Bauer]

use fully sealed bearings, rubber seal not steel shield. these brngs are extremely cheap, get a good name brand usa made or japan made brng.

 

[swrstock]

Where there other symptoms other than noise? Did it ever bog down while cutting? Think I may have same problem.

 

[rmk28027]

Sorry for not replying sooner.

The symptoms were a metal on metal grinding sound and the smell of overheating metal.

The mower never bogged down.

 

[Tom Bauer]

depending on which bearing fails, the mower may not disengage in which case the brake lining will be severely damaged, or the engine may appear to be locked and not turn. again, the bearings are cheap and easy to replace.

 

[sgannonhh]

I recently tried changing the PTO on my 4514,no matter what ever way I put the whole lot back together I cannot get enough thread on the cable and also it seems to engage where it should be disengaged.

 

[lmichael]

I recently tried changing the PTO on my 4514,no matter what ever way I put the whole lot back together I cannot get enough thread on the cable and also it seems to engage where it should be disengaged.

Yeah they're a total PIA to deal with. It was 3 or so years ago I did the one (rebuilt it) I had so honestly don't remember how I resolved it.