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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to figure out all the quirks on this new to me 4518 I acquired.

If I engage the PTO clutch even with no deck on it, it really bogs down the engine at first. When I disengage the clutch, the pulley comes to an immediate stop. Is there a break on the pulley? Can it be adjusted to disengage from the pulley sooner so it doesn't bog the engine down.

I will have the deck rebuilt soon, and I am afraid that with the load on the clutch, it will stall the engine outright. I also have a snowblower I want to use this winter.
 

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suggest you get your hands on a 4518 svc manual for that info

on the 3813's PTO, there's a rather limited adjustment parameter - at the pulley end, there should be iirc about 20 thou of free play, to insure the clutch is fully engaged when the handle is moved forward, and at the handle end not exactly a lot more of free play. any more than what the manual allows will allow some pressure on the plate inducing the clutch to slip and that would just mean early clutch disc failure

on the 3813 pto assy there is a brake disc that stops the PTO from rotating when the handle is pulled rear to the off position. would suspect it's the same on the 4518

the svc manual will help a lot
 

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Larryccf is on the right track. The PTO clutch on your 4518 is a larger version of the clutch on my 4514. Here is a diagram of the parts that make up the 4518 PTO clutch. Part #10 is keyed to the engine crankshaft and is always spinning. When the PTO is engaged, part #10 presses against part #5 with friction material to transmit power to the pulley. The brake plate, part #9, does not spin but can press against part #5 to stop the blades when the PTO is disengaged. With wear of the friction material part #5 will contact part #9 causing both the PTO drive and braking to be applied at the same time. The engine will bog down and if it gets bad enough you will have a meltdown complete with smoke and sparks.
 

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u have to engage them slowly on my 5518 if u throw it on quickly it will stall the motor out different pto though. I think the 1` on my 4518 does the same will try tomorrow got to cut the grass give u a update.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys,
Larryccf seems to always be on the right track.
I'm still trying to figure out all the engineering on this machine. My '91 Dodge Cummins is less complex.
This tractor was given to me by someone who got tired of scrounging parts and then paying a premium. He gave up when the center spindle on the 46" deck seized and the quote to fix it was more than a new Craftsman tractor (cost me $18 for 6 new bearings and some time on the hydraulic press). Right now, it is a project for me and my boys. They love it because it is our first hydro, so even my 6 year old can drive it.
I'm sure I'll have more issues as I dive into this.
Looking forward to the day I can help one of you.
 

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There is also two bearings n there. While you're in rebuild mode I'd pull it off motor and replace. You can drill out the welds to remove the bearings and re-assemble with bolts and nuts(locktite). Then you know what you have. Can't remember the bearing number but they're readily available at any industrial supply. 3-4 hour job, but not expensive.

You'll need a 3 leg puller. If you remove rad....you can get straight at it....and wash the fins in the rad....it's incredible the dirt that accumulates in there.

The snowblower is awesome....you can rebuild yokes on Pto with Weasler series 6 and greasable u joints.I had a friend fabricate some brackets to install a John Deere cable for the up/down on the chute.
 

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Thanks guys,
Larryccf seems to always be on the right track.
I'm still trying to figure out all the engineering on this machine. My '91 Dodge Cummins is less complex.
This tractor was given to me by someone who got tired of scrounging parts and then paying a premium. He gave up when the center spindle on the 46" deck seized and the quote to fix it was more than a new Craftsman tractor (cost me $18 for 6 new bearings and some time on the hydraulic press). Right now, it is a project for me and my boys. They love it because it is our first hydro, so even my 6 year old can drive it.
I'm sure I'll have more issues as I dive into this.
Looking forward to the day I can help one of you.
good comparison - the engineering on the PTO is definitely not intuitive

you got a heckuva nice machine there and if all that was bad was one of the deck spindles, you're way ahead of the game. I'll repeat on the svc manual suggestion - they really come in handy. If you go thru all the threads here on 4518 issues, you'll find there were some common issues and most fairly easy to repair - it might serve to be aware of the issues in advance so you know what to look for.

good luck with your 4518
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Service manual will be my next purchase.
I had to put in a new CDI to get the engine to run. No surprise there.
The deck is a little rough. I plan to show it some love with the TIG set next weekend.
The engine weeps a little oil from somewhere. Probably needs new seals. I'm thinking next spring, Ill pull the engine and give it a good overhaul, water pump, oil pump gear, seals, thermostat, timing belt, all the usual suspects.
I don't need this tractor for cutting, we have a bunch of tractors on the property and we usually use the Ford 600 with a 72" woods finish mower for the big field.
Mostly, this will be my winter snow machine, and my kids (6 &10) summer driving toy. Plus a little project for me.
I'll try to post some pics soon.
 

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Larryccf is on the right track. The PTO clutch on your 4518 is a larger version of the clutch on my 4514. Here is a diagram of the parts that make up the 4518 PTO clutch. Part #10 is keyed to the engine crankshaft and is always spinning. When the PTO is engaged, part #10 presses against part #5 with friction material to transmit power to the pulley. The brake plate, part #9, does not spin but can press against part #5 to stop the blades when the PTO is disengaged. With wear of the friction material part #5 will contact part #9 causing both the PTO drive and braking to be applied at the same time. The engine will bog down and if it gets bad enough you will have a meltdown complete with smoke and sparks.
this may be a little misleading. the brake and the PTO are always engaged at the same time at some point in the process, be it engaging or disengaging. that's the way it is designed and the manual says to move the lever in a quick but smooth manner. if the brake is dragging when engaged, it is out of adjustment.
tom
 

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Tom, you are correct. The brake and PTO will both be on at the same time with the transition of the lever. As the friction material on the PTO wears, the brake and PTO will be in contact with the PTO lever engaged and adjustment is needed. Perhaps that was not clear in my post.

:MTF_wel2:
 
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