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Discussion Starter #1
Got my 4514 out to mow a small section of my yard. When I throttled up to full, the engine kind of hesitated, then when it was at full, I engaged the deck. When the deck engaged, the rpms reduced to about half, and then slowly built back up. The engine never went back up to full throttle with the deck engaged, and it usually does. Then when I go forward with the throttle at full and the deck engaged, it bogs down even more.

I mowed all last summer with it without any problems whatsoever. I don't know if maybe the belts just shrunk or what... the belt was kinda warm when I touched it after I tried mowing, and that would explain part of the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks :dunno:
 

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If it is only straining with pto engaged I suspect bad bearings in either deck or the pto on machine itself. Check deck first... all idler wheels and the blades spin easy and smooth. If they seem good.....might be pto bearings.....if they've never been done....might be time..and if you are mechanically inclined ...it'll take an afternoon.

Search for pto rebuild....great instructions posted on this site.

If this is your first use for season...and motor is sluggish with pto not engaged....could be a bit of dirt or varnish in carb...even stale gas/ Few rides around yard should indicate if motor works as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I've determined that it's not the deck or idler pulleys, I'm thinking now that it is the pto bearings.

I gave it a good test drive, and the engine seems fine, so I disconnected the deck belt from the engine... to see if the engine bogged down when the pto was engaged w/o the deck attached... and it was fine. However, when the engine runs with the pto disengaged, there is a loud whining sound coming from the pto that stops when the pto is engaged.

I don't know what to do from here... I've tried adjusting the stopper bolt on the pto, and it made no difference.
 

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So check out this thread. https://www.mytractorforum.com/150-honda/1323709-somewhat-disappointed.html I fully rebuilt my PTO clutch as the main bearing in it was what went bad for me. Order yourself 2 of these https://smile.amazon.com/6005UU-Sealed-Ball-Bearing-25mm/dp/B010OHLJEE/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=38847PFR2TAG0&keywords=6005uu+bearing&qid=1558097802&s=gateway&sprefix=6005u,industrial,187&sr=8-1-fkmrnull but first make sure the clutch material and "disc" are in good shape and if so you can drill out the rivets (drill press is NEEDED) high quality drill bits as well. IIRC we used 1/4-20x3/8 hardened cap screws with 1/4-20 K-Lock nuts
I did the same thing recently to rebuild one of the tensioner pulleys you can see my post with picture about that as well https://www.mytractorforum.com/150-honda/1326565-loud-rattle.html
I think it is LarryCCF that encouraged me as well to replace the oil pump gear while I was that far into the front of the engine. I did so as well but honestly the old gear was still in perfect condition and probably could have been fine another 25 years. But it only added a few $$$ and maybe an extra hour to the job
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So check out this thread. https://www.mytractorforum.com/150-honda/1323709-somewhat-disappointed.html I fully rebuilt my PTO clutch as the main bearing in it was what went bad for me. Order yourself 2 of these https://smile.amazon.com/6005UU-Sealed-Ball-Bearing-25mm/dp/B010OHLJEE/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=38847PFR2TAG0&keywords=6005uu+bearing&qid=1558097802&s=gateway&sprefix=6005u,industrial,187&sr=8-1-fkmrnull but first make sure the clutch material and "disc" are in good shape and if so you can drill out the rivets (drill press is NEEDED) high quality drill bits as well. IIRC we used 1/4-20x3/8 hardened cap screws with 1/4-20 K-Lock nuts
I did the same thing recently to rebuild one of the tensioner pulleys you can see my post with picture about that as well https://www.mytractorforum.com/150-honda/1326565-loud-rattle.html
I think it is LarryCCF that encouraged me as well to replace the oil pump gear while I was that far into the front of the engine. I did so as well but honestly the old gear was still in perfect condition and probably could have been fine another 25 years. But it only added a few $$$ and maybe an extra hour to the job
Good luck
I've already had the engine out and replaced the oil pump gear, rotor, and seal in the front, because I replaced timing belt and head gasket and the engine was already apart then. I too found that the gear was like brand new when it came out, but I just did it anyways.

So in looking at your post there, all I need to do to get the bearing out is drilling out the rivets and putting the bolts in and not buy a new clutch part. And is there any reason you said to order two of those bearings? Thanks for your help:fing32:
 

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Because there are 2 of the bearings in the assembly. One on the brake plate and one built into the clutch itself. The one in the clutch though is typically the one that takes the "beating" as it's subject to more stresses. The other one just kind of "sits there" with no load on it. But IMO since they're the same and the one is very easy to change out it makes sense to put in a new one while you're there. It's only another $9.00
BTW did a bunch of mowing yesterday with the tractor and looks like my "rebuilt" pulley is doing the trick
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you, I appreciate the help. I'll go and order up those bearings and get some of those allen head bolts for the clutch. At least on this job, I wont be having to remove the engine again...
 

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I can't recall if I used the same length bolts/screws on the clutch as on the pulley. I would recommend buying the next length up just to be "safe" as I think the amount of material you have to bolt through is a little more on the clutch than the pulley
 
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