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Discussion Starter #1
We don't have that much snow in the UK, so now snow blowers - though wouldn't mind being able to plough a bit of our the lane etc. I don't understand how people can do this so well as last time it snowed I struggled to get it moving and kept having to dig it out, this was before I even tried to move anything.

Will chains help that much? I've had it stuck in just wet grass before spinning one of the wheels, Id imagine in snow it might end up being the same...


Which brings me to my thought - how could this be modified to lock the diff, but not permanent?

My only thoughts so far is to put disc brakes similar to a quad bike on both axles and allow differential braking?
 

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We don't have that much snow in the UK, so now snow blowers - though wouldn't mind being able to plough a bit of our the lane etc. I don't understand how people can do this so well as last time it snowed I struggled to get it moving and kept having to dig it out, this was before I even tried to move anything.



Will chains help that much? I've had it stuck in just wet grass before spinning one of the wheels, Id imagine in snow it might end up being the same...





Which brings me to my thought - how could this be modified to lock the diff, but not permanent?



My only thoughts so far is to put disc brakes similar to a quad bike on both axles and allow differential braking?
I like the way you think, but unlike a quad which uses CVT this uses hydrostatic trans. I would imagine that it would burn up.
The ht3813 which is essentially the same, but older version with a gear trans would hold up better to that idea

As for options, I haven't looked into these hydrostatic trans much, but I would imagine that with a bit of ingenuity, time and fabrication skills one could fashion a spool valve of sorts within the trans to work like a visco lock lsd. Similar to how can am front diff works.

The best bet with anything with an open diff, is chains and weight. I have a 3813 with chains and you have to really work it to get it to break traction.
Or you can look into welding the diff. Poor man diff lock

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Discussion Starter #3
I do know its HST but keep forgetting that it may not have a normal diff on the output of the hydro.

I guess weight is what I'm missing - I'm not exactly the biggest person. The tractors have already had ball tow hitches added to them so weight can be added onto that... time to wait for some more snow!
 

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I do know its HST but keep forgetting that it may not have a normal diff on the output of the hydro.



I guess weight is what I'm missing - I'm not exactly the biggest person. The tractors have already had ball tow hitches added to them so weight can be added onto that... time to wait for some more snow!
Yeah weight and tire design, which the chains will remedy for you. Plenty of people are able to overcome the traction issue with weight and chains.
We haven't had any serious snow fall yet since I got my set up, but mine has enough traction that I was able to grade a small part of my driveway with no issues

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I like the way you think, but unlike a quad which uses CVT this uses hydrostatic trans. I would imagine that it would burn up.
The ht3813 which is essentially the same, but older version with a gear trans would hold up better to that idea

As for options, I haven't looked into these hydrostatic trans much, but I would imagine that with a bit of ingenuity, time and fabrication skills one could fashion a spool valve of sorts within the trans to work like a visco lock lsd. Similar to how can am front diff works.

The best bet with anything with an open diff, is chains and weight. I have a 3813 with chains and you have to really work it to get it to break traction.
Or you can look into welding the diff. Poor man diff lock

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Why would it burn up the trans? The SImplicity I had was hydro and had an automatic differential lock. It worked like a champ too. If I felt the machine begin slipping in mud it would transfer power to the other wheel slick as you please, lock the 2 together and it would pull like crazy
 

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Why would it burn up the trans? The SImplicity I had was hydro and had an automatic differential lock. It worked like a champ too. If I felt the machine begin slipping in mud it would transfer power to the other wheel slick as you please, lock the 2 together and it would pull like crazy
Because that simplicity had an actual locker/true locking of the diffs, rather than what he mentioned. Which was done via the brakes.
It's common in many newer vehicles marketed in ways such as torque vectoring, electric lock etc. The diff is "locked" by the braking system which alternates and provides force to the wheel that slips and allows power to then transfer to the wheel that has no power going to it.
This provides greater force/torque on the internals to accomplish this task, so it's in my opinion that a system like this would ultimately aid in burning up the hydro. It's not a true diff lock in the sense that there isn't any actual locker mechanism in the differential, as was in the case with your simplicity but instead done via controlling wheel speed and causing a bind to then force power to both or the other axle.
The Humvee uses a similar system via BTM.

That and with the evidence that Rob provided a while back, makes clear that the hydro while not as injury prone as the big box retailers k46 hydros, is no heavy duty unit. I.e. not recommend to run ground engaging equipment or heavy pulling.

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Again there is no way to use brakes to do it but also again I have never and will never (I hope) open up my Honda. I would have to assume internally it's just a small open type differential. I guess if one was inclined they could weld the spider like on demo derby cars LOL. But heck even if you were able to fit some kind of brake control apparatus I doubt any harm would take place to the hydro as long as you don't stop both wheels.
Not sure what would be considered "heavy ground breaking" for this small a machine but I regularly pull a core aerator around with around 90# weight on it.
 

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Again there is no way to use brakes to do it but also again I have never and will never (I hope) open up my Honda. I would have to assume internally it's just a small open type differential. I guess if one was inclined they could weld the spider like on demo derby cars LOL. But heck even if you were able to fit some kind of brake control apparatus I doubt any harm would take place to the hydro as long as you don't stop both wheels.

Not sure what would be considered "heavy ground breaking" for this small a machine but I regularly pull a core aerator around with around 90# weight on it.
No one said anything about heavy ground engaging. It was ground engaging PERIOD. Continue as you please, but like I said this information came straight from an engineer that worked directly on that tractors design. Rob from Honda was kind enough to share that information a while back.

As to the brakes, when there is a will there is a way. But regardless, as I said before even if one could fashion said brake, it wouldn't be wise.

Yes, welding the spider is what I mentioned before. Aka poor man's locker or BKA A hillbilly diff lock.
I would go this route if I really wanted a locked diff, hydro or not, I'd go this route. The only downside is you're permanently locked and sharp turns on grass=ripped up.


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Discussion Starter #9
The engine does cut out if something gets stuck in the deck, that's directly off the engine though. If the hydro unit "locked up" (both wheels couldn't turn) would the engine stall as well?


I am going to give chains a try - and fashion a small barrel weight to go on the grass catch mounts (and fill with water as needed).

Chains aren't common around here, I cant find any specific to this model, and not sure how you size them? Some suit car tyre sizes but nothing this wide. UK based if anyone knows anything suitable?
 

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The engine does cut out if something gets stuck in the deck, that's directly off the engine though. If the hydro unit "locked up" (both wheels couldn't turn) would the engine stall as well?





I am going to give chains a try - and fashion a small barrel weight to go on the grass catch mounts (and fill with water as needed).



Chains aren't common around here, I cant find any specific to this model, and not sure how you size them? Some suit car tyre sizes but nothing this wide. UK based if anyone knows anything suitable?
Hey Simon
Yes, in theory if the drive wheels/hydro were to lock up, it should cause the engine to stall
However..the engine and hydro are mated via a driveshaft. The driveshaft has a bushing that is made of rubber. The worst case scenario, would be that rather than causing the engine to stall, the driveshaft will spin with enough force to destroy the damper. Thus rendering you immobile.

I know a lot of people put regular gym weights through the posts.
Or you can find a ballast box and fashion it to the back of yours. If you look at my thread Honda snow machines, you will see a picture of my set up.
The barrel idea will work if you get it to mount but keep a couple of things in mind.
1. You will more than likely be using in winter months, so you want to consider a fluid that won't freeze and will comply with your environmental laws. I know some folks use RV antifreeze, but the Big tractors they use beet juice as it is heavier than antifreeze, it won't freeze and it isn't corrosive or damaging to the environment like calcium chloride. It is expensive though.
2. A sprung liquid load will provide a lot of instability as it moves around. Keep that in mind if you have to cross uneven terrain. Unsprung this isn't an issue and actually does the opposite, provides stability but at the expense of greater strain on the drivetrain and less power due to the greater rotational mass.

As for the chains, assuming you have the stock rear tire size these are the ones for you. Also they're based in the EU.
https://www.newgardenstore.eu/en/snow-chains/13681-Snow-chains-wheel-mower-1-966-PEERLESS-size-20-5x8-50-10-Quad-pair.htm



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Discussion Starter #11
Yes I have a bagger, and I have some weights around, nice idea.

Link says product no longer available, but can see the size and such from the URL itself.
 

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Yes that is the correct size. You might need tensioners fyi. Also take into consideration the chain design etc. I.e. v bar while offering greater traction, ride like **** on dry pavement and causes scuff marks when the tires spin. Me personally I like the diamond design, a little more pricey but offers excellent traction and aren't as harsh as v design

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Discussion Starter #13
I found the ones linked, put the product code back into the page and it was okay. The original link was to 2 pairs too.
 
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