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I'll be using one of my 448's with a 48" snocaster to blow snow for the first time this winter. It will be used only on a level blacktop driveway. I do not want to use chains since they will scratch up the blacktop.
I weigh 160 and have 3 factory wheel weights on each rear wheel. Turf tires.
Do you think this will be enough or should I add some weight to hang off the 3 point hitch?
I don't want to do that unless its needed since the added length on the tractor will make it difficult to park in the garage space I have selected for it.
 

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I just filled my rear tires with windshield washer fluid this past weekend. I put 10 gallons in each tire giving me 90lbs per tire of invisible weight.

It took maybe an hour to fill both tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just filled my rear tires with windshield washer fluid this past weekend. I put 10 gallons in each tire giving me 90lbs per tire of invisible weight.

It took maybe an hour to fill both tires.
Have you used the tractor with a 48" snocaster? If so how much weight was on it and how did it perform?
 

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Ingersoll Dealer
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I completely understand your reasoning on the chains ... I don't really like them either. However, I fear you will find not enough weight to make the turfs work.

Some others will offer alternate opinions, I am sure.

My experience is that even with serious weight plus loaded on a 3 point or weight box, the turfs are just seriously bad snow tires. They'll float on the surface of snow, pack out a crust and then spin like on ice. Further, chances are that the rubber is old and hard on a 448.

I switched over to lugs for winter, plus about 400 lbs of weight (plus I am 210) and am very happy wtih their ability to plow, snowblow, and transport through deep snow.

Others should comment.

Brian
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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Turfs work well in light snow... And that's about it. I managed to plow foot deep snow, with occasional assistance from my lightweight girlfriend standing on the hitch; As well as filled tires and my 240lb frame in the captain's chair. It wasn't easy, but it's possible. I wouldn't recommend it. Once the second snow of the year came, the tires were useless on the older, packed underlayer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Turfs work well in light snow... And that's about it. I managed to plow foot deep snow, with occasional assistance from my lightweight girlfriend standing on the hitch; As well as filled tires and my 240lb frame in the captain's chair. It wasn't easy, but it's possible. I wouldn't recommend it. Once the second snow of the year came, the tires were useless on the older, packed underlayer.
Were you plowing snow or blowing it?
When blowing can I assume I will need less tractive effort and therefore be less likely to spin the tires?
I have tubes in the tires so I can run them at lower pressure, I hope that might help.
 

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I had no idea that you were multi-lingual. Exactly what language do rubber chains speak anyway???? Curious minds want to know. :trink40:
Hi castoff, you berry funny guy!!!! Actually Rosetta Stone has a tape program in Rubber Tire Chains 101. It is a very interesting program and I highly recommend it to you!!!! HARHARHARDIEHARHAR!!!!!
Mad Mackie from the Highlands of CT:biglaugh::dancingpa:fam32::bump9:
 

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Hi castoff, you berry funny guy!!!! Actually Rosetta Stone has a tape program in Rubber Tire Chains 101. It is a very interesting program and I highly recommend it to you!!!! HARHARHARDIEHARHAR!!!!!
Mad Mackie from the Highlands of CT:biglaugh::dancingpa:fam32::bump9:
Give me the link. :trink39:
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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Were you plowing snow or blowing it?
When blowing can I assume I will need less tractive effort and therefore be less likely to spin the tires?
I have tubes in the tires so I can run them at lower pressure, I hope that might help.
I was plowing... But the same rule applies to backing up; Which you would be doing with a plow or snowcaster. Also, a snowcaster is heavier than a plow and still pushes against snow (especially if your caster has "ears" and drift breakers) therefore traction is necessary.

For all the previous reasons I'd either run lugs or turfs with chains. If you're afraid of damaging your yard or driveway, then rubber chains are the next best thing.
 

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GET TOUGH GET A CASE!
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When I blew snow with my 448 using the old ag tires I bolted 2 front weights from a CASE 930 on the 3 point and it did very well. The front weights weigh about 100 lbs each so I had 200+ lbs usually on the back with my 180 lbs on the seat. I have youtube vids of it you can click below.
 

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GET TOUGH GET A CASE!
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This is another option without a 3 point setup. I made this bracket and it holds a little over 220 lbs, but I use this with chains.

Adding 200 lbs or so seems to be about the magic number needed to do a decent job in the snow providing your using chains or ag tires.

If your using just turfs add about 600 lbs :fing20: lol.
I'd give those rubber chains a try or get some ag's for it.
 

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I have a 220 with a 38” snowcaster, not quite the same set up, but it should serve as an example. I have 85 pounds on each wheel plus 130 pounds on the rear. That’s 300 pounds plus 220ish pounds of me. I still run chains on my flat blacktop driveway. I have tried without and the performance of the turf tires is very poor. If I keep the tires on the cleared pavement its not bad but if I try to go through anything deeper than 2” its not going to happen with out some work. Hope this helps.
 

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whats easier, wrestling with chains in the cold or swapping tires/wheels prior to the winter setting in? I find that the chains are a major PITA. Im constantly tying them upand they make a mess of the driveway. I just bought a spare setof wheel and will be adding some AG tires to them and see what happens. Im also gonna make my own wheel weights and see how that works out.

Quick question though, how much better are the tracotrs with the taller tires in the snow? I alwyas liked the lookof the tall tires but my 220 has the 12" ones? Is it as easy as changing the fenders to use the taller tires
 

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Your tractor will handle snow just as well as any "tall tired tractor" will. Just so you know, it's no small task to try and change a 200 into a 400. Different axle shafts, drive motor, front axle, tie rod, drag link, spindles, rear tires, fenders and you have to cut the front Snap Fast brackets off of 400 and your 200 and weld the 400 brackets back on,
 

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Your tractor will handle snow just as well as any "tall tired tractor" will. Just so you know, it's no small task to try and change a 200 into a 400. Different axle shafts, drive motor, front axle, tie rod, drag link, spindles, rear tires, fenders and you have to cut the front Snap Fast brackets off of 400 and your 200 and weld the 400 brackets back on,
wow, all that huh? I guess I will just have to like my current setup and thats it. I thought it was just a rear tire swap. I didnt know the front end was different too.
 

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Hi BottledZ28,
As Castoff has said making a 220 into a 440 is not a clean changeover. As far as tire chains are concerned the only good way to install them is to jack up the rear of the tractor, deflate the rear tires, install the chains and adjust them fairly tight, and inflate the tires. This way they stay tight and give you maximum traction. If you are concerned about marking a paved driveway then you have the option of purchasing rubber tire chains. Do a google search for rubber tire chains and you will find what I am refering to.
Bob MacGregor in CT :trink39:
 
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