[Rbeguelin]

Well, I have the engine out of my 446 and now some questions. The engine rubber mounting pads were on the underside of the frame, so that the engine mounted directly onto the chassis frame. Is that right? For vibration control I would think that there should be something between the frame and the engine. Maybe not. Additionally, I am getting ready to take out the steering column. I have about 1/4+ inches of play up and down the column and it appears that the underside of the steering wheel is resting directly on the steering tube. Is that correct? The steering wheel cap was held in place by some silicone caulk once out I found the cup empty ie no epoxy as I have read in the sticky and only a nut on the threaded shaft no pins etc. See pics.
The nut is on pretty tight, any suggestions as to how to take it off?

 

[redmule]

Air impact wrench will remove the nut.

 

[ricohman]

See my thread on the puller I used. It was a tough one to remove. There is a sticky on this.
My engine mounts were the same.

 

[bhildret]

The engine mounts are correctly positioned under the frame. They are not there for vibration damping, but rather to prevent any frame twist from breaking the die cast oil base.

Brian

 

[Rbeguelin]

Thanks guys,

Redmule an impact hammer would definetly work...what I am more concerned with is how to chock the steering wheel. I don't think I want to be using the wheel stops as the end turn for the wheel? Is there another way to brace the wheel...vice grip in the shaft? it will leave marks, but...
Ricohman, I have read your thread I am not at the wheel puller stage still trying to get the nut off but I will follow your lead when I do get the nut off.
Thanks
Brian,
I will be adding the rubber mounts to my list. I have about a 1/16 of play in the front axle between the frame tabs ...presume that is OK or should I tighten that...seems like if is was a larger amount I could insert a teflon pad.
Thanks all

 

[ricohman]

The impact will zip the nut off so fast the wheel won't move. No need to brace it.

 

[bhildret]

Brian, I will be adding the rubber mounts to my list.

I have about a 1/16 of play in the front axle between the frame tabs ...presume that is OK or should I tighten that...seems like if is was a larger amount I could insert a teflon pad.
Thanks all

The 1/16" clearance between the axle casting and the frame vertical plates near the pivot tube is not excessive, but also not necessary.

A little squeeze with a big bolt, while the axle pivot tube is out of there, will snug it up and make the front axle more stable ... thereby making the steering more controlled.

Brian

 

[drhulv]

Guess I didn't see a sticky on steering wheel removal for one whose steering shaft is secured with a nut, however, alot of what I encountered during the process of removing a "pinned" steering wheel in my sticky would still apply.

As Ricohman indicated, you will likely not need to brace the steering wheel anymore than just keeping a firm grip on it with one hand, while you zip the nut off with an impact driver in the other hand. After removing the locking feature (in this case, a nut for your set-up), it's a matter of removing the wheel from the steering shaft.

You may still encounter issues with trying to free the steel sleeve inside the steering wheel, if corrosion has had a chance to form inside and "bond" it to the steering shaft. A puller (I had suggested a steering wheel puller, but others can work) may be needed to then remove the wheel.

After freeing the nut, you could also reinstall it on the shaft just a few threads, creating a "pocket" that you could place the hammer tip of an air impact hammer into. Give it a few raps, see if the shaft and nut start to move down towards the steering wheel.

The bottom of the steering wheel typically rests on the flange of a nylon bushing installed in the top of the shaft tube. If it is not, then the bushing flange has worn away. If you have the wheel off, you might as well replace it, along with a new steering shaft bushing located down on the brace that supports the lower end of the shaft.

 

[Rbeguelin]

Thanks Drhulv,
I have gotten the retaining nut off, an impact alone was not enough - had to brace the shaft...but its off. Now I am facing an double nut with keyway? See pics. It looks to be threaded. How do I remove the key? If I try to hit it out the bottom the key will hit the top of the column. Wow this is a lot harder that my 1973 Mercedes steering wheel!
Thanks for the help!
Brian, What's a new steering wheel go for?

 

[RestMyCase]

I could be wrong but I can't imagine that is threaded on. More likely it is a slip fit like a collar. Soak it with penetrating oil and pull it off with a bearing puller. Add some heat if necessary.

:trink40:

 

[longman]

It would seem unlikely that it would be threaded.

What does the bottom side of the steering wheel hub look like?

Is it possible that the "lower hex" would be to get a wrench on in order to get the topside nut off, and the "upper hex" then would just keep the steering wheel from spinning on the shaft ...rather like a coarse splined shaft?

If so, it it possible that this piece is actually supposed to come off with the steering wheel?

just my .02

 

[Nutcase446]

That piece is supposed to be part of the steering wheel. At this point I would warm up the hex piece (try to keep heat off the shaft) and see if you can start to drive the shaft out either with a air hammer or soft punch. Put the nut back on till it breaks free. If you have no torch you can start soaking in Blaster. You may be able to rebond the hub in the wheel if no damage is done.

 

[drhulv]

I agree with all the above. That is the center section of the steering wheel that pulled out from the inside of your steering wheel when you removed it. That section should still be with the wheel.

You could use a liquid penetrant and a puller like RMC suggested to remove. It is not threaded onto the steering shaft, it has a smooth inner diameter that slides onto the shaft. Tolerances are close and if you get corrosion in there, this is typically what happens.

Another method would be to partially thread the nut back onto the end of the steering shaft, use that air impact hammer (if you have one) with a hammer tip and "rat-a-tat-tat" on the end of the shaft to see if it starts to move down through that sleeve.

 

[bhildret]

SOrry to see that condition, but these shafts are real stubborn if not treated with anti-sieze sometime along the way.

New keyway steering wheels are $123 ... in stock for quick shipment.

Brian

 

[[email protected]]

:dunno: I'm impatient ,
I would cut two "relieve" cut's with a jig saw into what looks like a nut about 1/2" apart and and stop just before you would hit the shaft, next use a cold chisel into the cut, after two or three good hits with a hammer the wedge will come out, next wrench off the rest, total time about 15 minutes, done.:fing32:

P.S.
I do this weekly on 50+ year old cast iron heating system piping and it works better and quicker than any juice and even heat.

*** Looking at the picture again just cut like above but where the key way is.

 

[longman]

hmmm ...maybe an addendum to the "steering wheel sticky" might be in order?

FWIW, I have had the best luck with items such as this by using a bearing puller, as previously mentioned, and some heat on the offending item, as also previously mentioned, then spraying with PB Blaster as previously mentioned ...in that order. As the item gets cooled down by the spray of the oil, it will draw the oil into the joint.

Crank down on the puller as much as you can until it feels like something might start to break and then just let it sit for awhile under tension ...overnight is a good thing ...give the puller a few more cranks, until it feels like something might break again ...if it still hasn't come loose, let it sit some more. At some point, it will just pop off there like there was nothing ever wrong.

I have had automotive harmonic dampers take 3 days to get off of there before ...but all of them eventually came off using this method.

Also, as previously suggested, putting the nut back on (flush with the end of the shaft) and maybe a small scrap piece of steel on top of that will help to keep the end of the shaft from "mushrooming" ...even if the puller has the swivel end on the threaded shaft. This will also help to keep the threads on the steering shaft from getting galled.

Just some thoughts ...hope it helps some.

 

[Rbeguelin]

OK I went out after dinner determined to have the shaft out before I went to bed...bad deadline. I have now broken my favorite valve spring remover on this thing...hit it with mutiple blasts of PB tho only one blast is really needed. I have to be careful that the air hammer doesn't start to splay the top of the shaft... Yes I have the top nut on to regroove the threads. I cant get my main puller arms underneath this nut...will try tommorrow Am with another puller...and then I will cut the sucker off...I think I will cut towards the key way unless there is another suggestion. For such a well designed tractor this is an aberration.
Brian please order the wheel and I will add to the order! I know I will need some of the shim washers when I am done

 

[longman]

Well, if you don't want to save the part for a possible fix of the old steering wheel, I personally would weld something on the outside. Probably something round, like maybe a pipe coupling or short piece of pipe cut in two lengthwise. Weld the two halves up the side, far enough up that you can get a decent puller underneath the edge. My thoughts are that cutting it isn't going to be a picnic either ... and munging up the shaft just might ruin your day.

But that's just me, to each their own I guess.

 

[bhildret]

It will be here when you are ready, RB.

A high speed cutoff tool (dremel, air grinder) and a little patience will get it off quickly and without damaging the shaft. Just don't cut all the way through, except at the keyway.

When 3 slots cut in, hit it with a chisel to bust it apart.

Personally I wish every factory would use anti-sieze on all the shaft interfaces like these ... I take new mower decks apart and steering wheels off, specifically to put in anti-sieze for future serviceability ...

Brian

 

[Nutcase446]

If you take out the 4 bolts that hold the lower steering support, you can lift the shaft a little. This will allow you to get a 3 jaw puller on it to apply more pressure. It will also give you a little more room to work if you decide to cut the hub at the keyway.