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Discussion Starter #1
Well, fixed one leak, on to the next. It appears that the rear cover is leaking on the trans. Looking at the parts diagram, there isn't a gasket there, John Deere Sealer is used..... I have some RTV black, wondering if that stuff will work just as well.
 

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Will probably be okay. Black is rated for oil I think. When in doubt though use gray, that stuff is insane


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Discussion Starter #3
Thank You. :) Likely going to be tomorrows project. Discovered one of my gas tank straps on my truck broke, so, doing those today. :D
 

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You're welcome. If you discover a rear axle oil leak on your truck, and it's coming from the cover, best to use gray on that


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RTV is RTV, color doesn't seam to make any difference. I have successfully used Clear, Red, Blue, Black and Orange with no problems. Clean surfaces are the key to success, I use Brake Clean and then blow or wipe dry before applying the RTV.
 

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there is probably 1000 different kinds of rtv. 90% are not good for oil. Color is irrelevant.... it's like colors of paint - it's the paint type that matters... not the color... likewise... it's the RTV type that matters... not the color....

"gasket-maker" in a tube uses the common RTV curing process (Room Temperature Vulcanization), but is not made from the everyday common material that people refer to as RTV... which is silicone.

So.... read the tube and see if it's gasket material... because you sure as heck don't want to use tub & tile bathroom rtv on there!!! ;)

i personally normally avoid using the term RTV because by itself is meaningless... it's like the word "soda".... or "epoxy".... or my favorite - is the word "vehicle".....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hhhmmm..... Well, got the tractor in the garage, tore it down so I can kinda/sorta see where it is leaking from. It appears to be from the rear cover, at one of the lower bolts.... however, it also appears that there is indeed a gasket in there, the deere parts catalog doesn't list one, and doesn't show one in the parts diagram. Can anyone verify if there is/is not, a gasket there??? Checked tuff torq's site, and that was pretty useless. Their parts lookup is terrible. You have to KNOW what you are looking for in order to find it... Or maybe I am just missing something obvious.....

Looks like it is leaking from where the left side axle bolts to the trans housing as well..... and there also appears to be a gasket in there, but again, the JD parts listing doesn't show one.

Color me confused. :D
 

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This is well beyond my mechanical knowledge but getting the correct torque and should it be bolted on using a pattern as say a wheel on a "vehicle" to set it in place uniformly.

CCMoe
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yep, verified thru a couple other sources, no gasket.... Pulled the cover, and yep, just some variety of sealer. Put a bead of RTV black around it, lined it up, put all the bolts back in, and torqued in the side to side sequence. (yep, just like lug nuts. :) ) Now, just need to let it cure.

However, I think I found where my leak was actually come from. The seal for the diff lock shaft was popped out.... I put it back in, but, am not holding out a lot of hope for that. Wondered if perhaps the trans case vent was clogged up, and that feller sure is hard to blow thru.... It doesn't look dirty or anything, but, seems like it took a lot of pressure to get any airflow thru it. I could see how that might possibly blow that seal out. Think I should modify it so it breathes a bit better? And give it a shot? Or should I wait, actually replace the diff lock shaft seal, THEN modify the vent..... and go from there?
 

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ha ha!.... yea its the diff-lock seal.

had the same with my 455. And so did a huge number of other people.... pushing it back in will last 2-3 hours and it will work itself out again....

Get a new seal...
Clean out the seal seat of all oil, then clean with methyl hydrate... 2 times.... it needs to be pristine clean and completely free of oil.... then apply a little bit of loctite to the inside edge of the seat and to the outside of the seal, and then seat the seal in... let the loctite cure, and reassemble everything.... I wetted the diff lock pin with oil after the loctite cured, so that the "clean" metal on rubber doesnt rip out the new seal when activating the diff lock...

cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Wally. :) I think I am gonna do exactly that. Going to pick up a new trans vent valve as well, see if a new one flows easier than the one I got.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do I have to drop the trans out to change that seal? Kinda looks that way.........
 

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I can't answer that as I had my Rear End out to change the Spider Gears to the new updated four gear assembly after the original two gear unit failed while blowing snow. At that time I replaced all the soft parts, O-Rings and Seals. I did have to remove the unit later on during the summer as the brakes were not working properly and I just shimmed the disc pack as the dealer didn't have them in stock and I need the tractor. This was over 10-12 years ago and I have had Zero problems since then. I do love this tractor and as a PM I replaced the final plastic gears in the engine and water pump last month so I should be good for another 26 years of service, probably be approaching 2000 hours by then.
 

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yea - it makes it way easier... the job to drop the transmission is not that incrementally significant once you take the seat pan off and and move the fuel tank out of the way....
Just keep in mind the tranny is quite heavy.... I actually used a hoist to raise the rear end of the tractor up - the tranny stayed in the ground.....

some people say it's a good idea to change some of the other seals as well - including the fwd/rev drive level, brake lever, etc.... I did my swash plate shaft as well (fwd/rev drive control shaft), when I did mine....

here are some additional references:
455 rear end leaking
445 seal and packing
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, went and looked, and there is no easy access with the trans in the frame. Already have the seat pan/gas tank out of the way, so, it looks like just a driveshaft, a couple hydraulic lines (conveniently, right at the top.....) direction linkage, and the diff lock linkage. Not too bad.....

I already did the o-rings in the direction shaft. That wasn't too bad with the trans on the tractor. Strategically place holes made it doable. Not so lucky on the other side.

Thanks Guys. :D
 

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Yeah, went and looked, and there is no easy access with the trans in the frame. Already have the seat pan/gas tank out of the way, so, it looks like just a driveshaft, a couple hydraulic lines (conveniently, right at the top.....) direction linkage, and the diff lock linkage. Not too bad.....

I already did the o-rings in the direction shaft. That wasn't too bad with the trans on the tractor. Strategically place holes made it doable. Not so lucky on the other side.

Thanks Guys. :D
Asking someone who's done it before...how far can you lower it out of the frame, and keep the lines attached for example, or the driveshaft, etc


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Discussion Starter #18
Asking someone who's done it before...how far can you lower it out of the frame, and keep the lines attached for example, or the driveshaft, etc


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I haven't done it yet. :) Soon though.

Most of the stuff looks pretty easy to disconnect, and I think that is the route I am going to take. At least one of the hydraulic lines looks to be a hard line, and I wouldn't want to bend/break that.

Yeah, it seems like a LOT of work for a six dollar seal..... but, I don't want this job to develop a bad case of scope creep. :D
 

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I haven't done it yet. :) Soon though.

Most of the stuff looks pretty easy to disconnect, and I think that is the route I am going to take. At least one of the hydraulic lines looks to be a hard line, and I wouldn't want to bend/break that.

Yeah, it seems like a LOT of work for a six dollar seal..... but, I don't want this job to develop a bad case of scope creep. :D
At least you don't have an AWS model. I thought I needed rear wheel bearings on mine. Turns out single row ball bearings have axial play


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lol!... my 455 is AWS.... and I changed the bearings in the rear u-joint hubs (2 bearings in each), plus all the bearings in the AWS system linkage (it's like 10-12 of them), and I changed all the joints to heim-joints. It was actually not that tough... probably 3-4 hrs of work total.

the dropping of the tranny - i disconnected everything, so cant tell how far you can go with everything connected... but as far as the fwd/rev and brake linkage - that is probably the biggest constraint... for sure you need to disconnect.

for the drive shaft - not sure - i also disconnected that - and actually i would recommend that you do anyway - that way you can inspect the u-joints for slack/wear, plus grease the splined shaft so that it can slide without wearing the splines.... cause if the splines get worn down, to replace the transmission input shaft is Major $$'s.
My splined coupling was dry as a bone and rusty when I took it apart......
 
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