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430 Full Stainless Exhaust Build

2242 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Inspiribomb
Hey y'all, been a while :) As many of you know, the exhaust on the 430 is a weak point. Over time, the elements and vibration from the diesel cause it to fall apart. Same thing happened to mine. I did not want a "stack" as I find them to be ugly, and wanted the exhaust discharge similar to factory.

The parts required for this include:

1) Two 304 stainless long-tangent 90-degree elbows, 1.5" OD
2) One 304 stainless long-tangent 45-degree elbow, 1.5" OD
3) A couple feet of 304 stainless straight pipe, 1.5" OD
4) 1/4" thick stainless steel mounting flange to connect to factory exhaust manifold (machined)
4) Mounting bracket/clamp for the opposite end of the exhaust, sized to fit alternate motor mount location (machined). Again in 304 stainless

Most of these parts I sourced fairly easily online. The brackets I designed in CAD and had machined by a friend of mine.

Once I had all of the components on-hand and test fitted, a friend came over with some tools and his TIG welder. Within a few hours, we had everything fully welded and installed. I struggled to find a stainless steel muffler that would fit, so opted to eliminate it altogether. She is definitely not quiet, but is much quieter than before, and the exhaust tone has mellowed significantly. I live out in the country and wear ear protection whenever running it, so the noise is not an issue.

The end result is a robust exhaust system that should last the remaining life of the tractor, although time will tell. Total cost to build was about $200, but I also got the welding done for free. If anyone wants a complete list of parts and where I got them from, along with my CAD drawings for the necessary bracket and flange, I would be happy to share them.



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Nice job on that install/manufacture. Bet you get some takers on the offer for plans and sources!
Nice design, and I agree with Brad, should have a few takers on the plans and drawings!
Maybe you and your friend will be able to patch the engine side panel where the PO put the exhaust stack.
The hole in the side panel was where the coolant line exited for the cab heater. It doesn't really bother me so I've left it as-is.
Are you going to repair the cracked hood? Waiting to see a fiberglass repair project on these 420/430 long hoods.
Cracked hood? I don't think it's cracked, unless you are seeing something I missed. Are you referring to the black strip across the top? If so, that was there to keep the cab front glass from rubbing on the paint.
Here are a couple pictures of the exhaust removed. For reference, the pipe lengths are (approximately) 5-3/4", 2-3/4", and 8-3/4", starting where it bolts up to the exhaust manifold.



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My mistake, glad you corrected, because it sure looked like a taped repair.
Wow, great job!

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That's nice and should last a long time. I'll bet it could be done in steel for less than $50 if a guy just had a simple wire welder.
That really is a nice job. What is a source of small diameter exhaust pipe? I searched for some to make a bend off my mower and couldnt locate any.
I found the straight sections on a certain auction site, available by the foot. I ordered what was needed plus some extra just in case.

The bends I found on a certain river site. I wasn't sure if the short or long tangents would be better. I ended up using the long tangents as they made for smoother transitions and seemed to work better when piecing it all together.

I searched for a stainless steel muffler that would fit the limited space and match up with the 1.5" pipe, but didn't come up with much, so left it off for now.
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Does this exhaust exit point towards you? If so any reason for that? Might be quieter pointing away.
Yes, it points towards the operator, since there was the most clearance for the hot exhaust to exit. As currently designed and built, you would want to wear hearing protection regardless of what direction the outlet points.
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