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John Deere 316 Onan
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Discussion Starter #1
My 425 must of had the gauge lens come off in the past and the PO did a nasty job gluing back on with windshield adhesive caulking. To make matters worse the bottom of the glass was not sealed and all kinds of dirt and moisture gets under the lens and really looks bad.

I know I said I wasn't going to pretty this 425 up much but it is nice to be able to see the gauges...lol

I did not get any before pictures but I carefully got the glass out and took most of the afternoon to clean all that gooey black adhesive off the glass and bezel. My glass wont quite go back into the bezel and sit flat. It's like the plastic shrunk a small amount over the years so I may sand the edge of the glass to shrink it so it fits in correctly.

I have some 3M VHB black double sided tape coming to hold the glass in but it will be a week or so until it shows up. I searched the web for hours looking for people who have done this before and low and behold the best thread I found was from this site, go figure...lol

Thank you techie1961 for this wonderful thread!


My main concern after all that is done is now my gauge face is faded and has sun damage and I found very little info on people cleaning them up from UV damage, so out came the car products. Maguire's Interior detailer made for plastics that get pounded by the sun seems to be working well but it takes some elbow grease to start to erase years of sun damage.

Here is the gauge cluster as it sits right now. I have rubbed the Maguire's onto the left side for maybe 20 minutes and the results are noticeable.
2463229


And with the bezel without the glass.
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I think this will work very well and the Maguire's product does not leave an oily film to attract dirt. When you get done wiping, and before it dries it looks 100% like new but I know if I use something that leaves a residue that it will just collect dust. I did find a YouTube video where a guy used an Armorall product and his looked perfect but it had that wet oily look and I'm convinced that I don't want that.

Anyway, I will add more pics when the tape shows up and I get the glass to fit and get it taped in place.
 

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FWIW Armorall may have just been shiny and not wet. Like a dash looks after putting it on. Dust doesn’t collect on it because it’s so slippery. The cluster should be nearly sealed so not much dust should get. Good looking job so far. Double check the solder connections while you’re at it. No point in having to take it apart again.
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
What's this about the solder connections?

I don't want to pull the needles and it looks like that's what needs done to get the face off to go any deeper.
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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Discussion Starter #4
This morning I rubbed on the right side with Meguiar's and it went better then I thought it would go. The right side was the worst side and it only took the same amount of time to do.

Now I got to say that I'm no photographer and that the middle of the face is not cloudy like it looks in this picture, it just a glare from my light.
2463241
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
That would be nice.

Mine work but I could hardly see them with all the dirt and moisture under the glass.
 

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I don't want to rain on your parade but that Macguire's will eventually evaporate and the grayness will come back. Only a permanent cover like polyurethane will seal it forever. I have tried the same things on faded decals on many JD's that are on the tranny tunnels. They look good for a while but then lose the dark look as the chemical evaporates. Then I tried a clear urethane and it stayed clean and darker. I have often wondered why someone with a good vinyl print shop doesn't offer new faces for this series tractor. There are thousands of all three models and most of them have faded faces.
 

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What's this about the solder connections?

I don't want to pull the needles and it looks like that's what needs done to get the face off to go any deeper.
You are correct. The needles do have to come off to remove the board to check solder connections, but that seems to be one of the major complaints.
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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Discussion Starter #9
I don't want to rain on your parade but that Macguire's will eventually evaporate and the grayness will come back. Only a permanent cover like polyurethane will seal it forever. I have tried the same things on faded decals on many JD's that are on the tranny tunnels. They look good for a while but then lose the dark look as the chemical evaporates. Then I tried a clear urethane and it stayed clean and darker. I have often wondered why someone with a good vinyl print shop doesn't offer new faces for this series tractor. There are thousands of all three models and most of them have faded faces.

I actually removed the cloudiness, the proof was in the paper towel I was rubbing with, The product I'm using has no film left behind to evaporate or ware off. I have had the same thing happen to me that you are talking about but this product is different.

I happen to work in a nice graphics shop and we can make these lighted through faces but the thing is, most wouldn't pay what it would cost to make one. Making 100 would be a different story as far as price per unit but we never stock finished product.
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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Discussion Starter #11
I sanded the glass to fit snuggly in the bezel but have no real idea why I had to but the bottom of the glass would set on top of the bottom lip. All I can think of is that plastic must shrink with age.

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Now I just need that 3M VHB tape to show up and it will hold the glass in and hide my sins from scraping that old caulking off the bezel.
 
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John Deere 316 Onan
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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, that's the guy who used the wet looking Armorall, It looks great but in the past I've had it dry out and go back to cloudy.

What I did was not cover the damage with a wet product, I removed the damage by rubbing it with a interior cleaner, more or less buffing it out.

That video was helpful when I saw it and thanks for posting it, the link I posted and that video are really the only 2 things I could find on restoring a JD gauge cluster.
 

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i dabbed some thin oil on the needle shaft and slowely moved the needle back and forth for a day and the loosened up and worked afterwards so something to try
 

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One area that some overlook is the big multiplug that fits into the back of the cluster. That is a source of a lot of dust getting into the cluster. Use a good nonadhesive caulk after it has been seated. I used Gorilla tape and then caulked the tape so that it could be removed easily.
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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Discussion Starter #16
Today I had a guy at work print out the paper template from the thread I posted earlier.

So now when the tape shows up I can trace the inner line with an x-acto blade and it should look like JD did it.

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John Deere 316 Onan
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Discussion Starter #17
The tape came today so I got to finish the gauge cluster.

First step was to clean the glass with alcohol then apply enough tape to go past the template lines, more on this later. Do not touch the glass or the tape or you will leave finger prints that you can't get to.
2464256


Then tape the template down and cut on the lines.
2464257


Test fit after cutting.
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And the final product.
2464260


Now for what I learned, if i did this again I would use 1'' wide tape so you don't have the long seam lines. I swore I ordered 3/4'' which would be tight but I ordered 1/2'' wide and if your worried about the seams I'd go with 1'' wide tape.
2464261



The VHB tape is super sticky and will hold the glass in no problem. We use it at work on signage and this stuff is the best.

Peeling the excess off the glass after cutting around the template is a pain but the longer this stuff is on the more it grabs so don't cut it and try to peel the excess the next day, do it right away.

As long as it's sealed and the condensation stops along with the dirt under the lens I'll be happy.
 

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The 3M VHB tape is the best, used it a lot while working at window plant.

If you happen to put two items together and clamp it down, forget trying to get them apart.

Cluster looks pretty good, I went the cheap route, mine has 0000.2 hours on it!

CCMoe
 

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The tape came today so I got to finish the gauge cluster.

First step was to clean the glass with alcohol then apply enough tape to go past the template lines, more on this later. Do not touch the glass or the tape or you will leave finger prints that you can't get to.
View attachment 2464256

Then tape the template down and cut on the lines.
View attachment 2464257

Test fit after cutting.
View attachment 2464259

And the final product.
View attachment 2464260

Now for what I learned, if i did this again I would use 1'' wide tape so you don't have the long seam lines. I swore I ordered 3/4'' which would be tight but I ordered 1/2'' wide and if your worried about the seams I'd go with 1'' wide tape.
View attachment 2464261


The VHB tape is super sticky and will hold the glass in no problem. We use it at work on signage and this stuff is the best.

Peeling the excess off the glass after cutting around the template is a pain but the longer this stuff is on the more it grabs so don't cut it and try to peel the excess the next day, do it right away.

As long as it's sealed and the condensation stops along with the dirt under the lens I'll be happy.
Great post SWIGIN!! Awesome job and a good post for future reference!!
 

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Swingin,

I was going to do the same with mine but the fuel and temp gauges just don't work that great. I have the Lexan and 3M VHB but just never got to it. I purchased a new one, haven't put it on yet, clock still works on old one and is at 930.6. I would really like to get to 1000.0 and replace it the but it takes .3 to .4 to mow my yard so it may be awhile!

BTW, glass was on mine when I bought it, 150 miles of highway seemed to loosen it up a bit, pieces were on the lift gate/ramp on the back of my 16' trailer when I got home.

Did you compress your glass onto the gauge in any way, factory glass seemed to let a lot of debris in.

CCMoe
 
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