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Is possible to reverse the fan on 425 motor to push heat into the cab. The tractor is only used to blow snow in winter not a summer driver.
 

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I would think turning it around , it would then hit the belt on the water pump.
 

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even if you could turn it around I think you would be asking for more problems that its worth...possible over heating ...sucking in moisture from melted snow.. dirt dust...ect..
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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Some have added small generators on the back of their tractors to power some small electric heaters with fans (110VAC). They did this because the engines could not generate the needed amps to power the additional load. So built a mounting box on a sleeve hitch mount and strapped the small generator on to that, it acts as weight too for traction.
 

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I just recently did this to my x475. I bought a fan online and made it fit. Have not had a opportunity to put it work to see how it does until next the snowfall. I have fired it up and ran wide open throttle with no issues, but that's all it's done so far. I'm currently searching online for a small cheap battery powered carbon monoxide tester to keep in the cab. If I need to use the machine before I have a tester I'll just take a door off or something for ventilation. So far I have around $40 into this modification not counting the used bracket and pulley i just bought off Ebay to mount the summer fan onto. That way i can just swap the whole assembly in spring and fall.

Another option is a electric pusher fan. Like what's on a car, can be found online for ~$50. Seen them with no sensor meaning you'd have to watch the gauge and turn the fan on/off as needed(could just leave it on all the time too), or some have a temp sensor that slides into the radiator fins for automatic on/off. I went with mechanical only because I'm using most of what my alternator can handle already with my lights and fan for the heater.

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What I would do, is purchase a self contained 12v heater that uses heated coolant. Put a T and shut off valves to the radiator hoses, and plumb the heater into the T's. This way you can partially bypass the radiator. You can partially close the valves until you start getting good heat. Since the heater core is also a radiator core itself, it will be able to maintain temp especially in a colder climate
 

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What I would do, is purchase a self contained 12v heater that uses heated coolant. Put a T and shut off valves to the radiator hoses, and plumb the heater into the T's. This way you can partially bypass the radiator. You can partially close the valves until you start getting good heat. Since the heater core is also a radiator core itself, it will be able to maintain temp especially in a colder climate
Mine overheated with the radiator plumbing in tact, with my heater core on high, but I did have the radiator fan removed. I've been experimenting with different options. So per my experience the heater core is not enough cooling for the engine.

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Mine overheated with the radiator plumbing in tact, with my heater core on high, but I did have the radiator fan removed. I've been experimenting with different options. So per my experience the heater core is not enough cooling for the engine.

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It's not enough on it's own. That's why you would put in a restriction to block only some of the coolant across the radiator. But also, on a vehicle that goes no faster than 7 mph, the radiator fan is basically required, since it cannot dissipate heat with no air movement. Also if you don't block some flow, the heater core would get very little coolant moving through it, hindering the cooling performance even more
 

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It's not enough on it's own. That's why you would put in a restriction to block only some of the coolant across the radiator. But also, on a vehicle that goes no faster than 7 mph, the radiator fan is basically required, since it cannot dissipate heat with no air movement. Also if you don't block some flow, the heater core would get very little coolant moving through it, hindering the cooling performance even more
At first I tried blocking the radiator by placing vinyl over the screens where it takes air in. It still sucks air thru the dash and wherever it can, so the cab acts like a wind tunnel. And almost all of the heat from the heater core gets sucked into the radiator right away.

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It's not enough on it's own. That's why you would put in a restriction to block only some of the coolant across the radiator. But also, on a vehicle that goes no faster than 7 mph, the radiator fan is basically required, since it cannot dissipate heat with no air movement. Also if you don't block some flow, the heater core would get very little coolant moving through it, hindering the cooling performance even more
At first I tried blocking the radiator by placing vinyl over the screens where it takes air in. It still sucks air thru the dash and wherever it can, so the cab acts like a wind tunnel. And almost all of the heat from the heater core gets sucked into the radiator right away.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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