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Discussion Starter #1
So I got the rear wheels blasted and painted and found some 26x12-12 6 ply GBC Dirt Devils used for $50 for the pair they are in real good shape so I took them to the tire shop that I had credit from for dismounting the 33 year old Good Years and dropped them off. I went back by an hour later to get them and they said they couldn't get them seated and it was because the original 400 wheels required tubes. There was about an inch gap where the tire wouldn't touch the outside of the rim so I went to another tire shop and they messed with it for a little bit and then tried to sell me tubes for $69. So I am confused as to what is going on here the tires that were removed were the same size any ideas? I thought about putting tubes in them but not sure. What do y'all think?


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Discussion Starter #3
That's true what do you think about tubes?


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I wouldn't tell anyone to do this but.................. I have "heard" of people who shoot a little starter fluid in the tire and throw a match at it and BOOM! Tire is on bead. Old timer trick I guess? Seen it done but have not done it myself.

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Sounds like the tire won't "stretch" to the wheel width so they can get air to be trapped in the tire and seat the bead.

I've seen some things that look like tube you can lay over a tire to seal it to the rimand get air in it to stretch it to the bead and get the bead to seat.

But if a reputable tire shop messed with it and couldn't get it done, I'd just put tubes in them.
 

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I wouldn't tell anyone to do this but.................. I have "heard" of people who shoot a little starter fluid in the tire and throw a match at it and BOOM! Tire is on bead. Old timer trick I guess? Seen it done but have not done it myself.

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I've done the ether trick with excellent results. Use a little and add a bit more until you get the results you want. When I was in school I busted tires at a tire shop. If nothing else, it served as motivation to stay in school and get a better job. Even with the bead blaster some smaller tires just wouldn't seat. It would usually take a few tricks employed at the same time. I'll share this trick which I till use from time to time. Take a ratchet strap and run it around the circumference of the tire, centered on the tread. When you start to cinch up the strap it will cause the sidewalls to flare out toward the bead. Even if the beads don't touch the seating area you can usally make up the difference with a bead blaster or ether.



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Discussion Starter #8
Got them mounted one worked like a champ with ether the other tool a combination of ether and a ratchet strap and then that seated it and i wasn't fast enough on the air and couldn't get it seated and ended up only seating one side so I stood on it with air while the wife put soap around it I'm sure it was a sight to see


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Discussion Starter #9
Here are a few pictures of them mounted and the 210 in the background, the rim sticks out a good bit past the tire but they will do for now till I can get some tru powers
ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1367693269.998996.jpg
ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1367693328.974166.jpg
ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1367693342.039877.jpg


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I do not see any reason why you can't run tubes but $69 is a little excessive. You can get them at tractor supply for cheaper I think. Looks like you have figured it out though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah my only concern is if I deflate them to load them I don't want to accidentally break the beads it was not an enjoyable experience I might test it tomorrow


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Glad to see the ratchet strap worked. If you are adding ballast through the valve stem don't worry about the tire slipping off the bead seat. I always add ballast by breaking the bead on the valve stem side of the wheel, it's so fast and easy to dump it in with a 5 gallon bucket rather than fart around trying to push 9 gallons of thick liquid through a tiny hole.


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