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Discussion Starter #21
It's a 1/2"x5/16"x37.5" belt, according to the www. I found a 1/2"x5/16"x37.3" that should work fine...

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Gravely1964
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It's a 1/2"x5/16"x37.5" belt, according to the www. I found a 1/2"x5/16"x37.3" that should work fine...

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1/2 X 37 stens belts is what I put on mine a few years ago, So far so good :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
There's lots of spring and idler travel, so I doubt it's critical...

I even went as far as to try a couple smaller idlers for my Grasshopper and its PTO belts, but even with the smaller idler the belts were too short. Oh well...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well my seals came today...471766 has a 1.25" ID...how does that work with 1" ID bearings? Is there a flange the seal rides on, and not the shaft?

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Discussion Starter #27
It fought me all the way...the top bearings were rusted on because the seal was bad and left water get into them...this was before I started using Schaeffer Grease, which is water proof. The bottom bearing was easy, once I figured out the big washer was not part of the "stack" and came off towards the blade...that washer had worn to the raised section the seal rides on, probably the blade was loose at one point.

I toasted two new seals...one I over drove, the other one I dented...lost my feel for driving them, its only been ten years since I really got into anything like this. With all the pointers, and the bearing and seal numbers, things went back together and its smooth...and the "good" spindle isn't so good...next weeks project.

One other thing I noted...it had Garlock seals, Toyo outer races, and NTN bearings...and signs someone else had been in there before...the bottom bearing wasn't even seated to the proper place.

Again, thanks for all the pointers, it really helped a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hardest part I had with rebuilding mine was holding the spindle while breaking the nut loose on the blade. The original design has a 3/8 " drive square machined into the end to hold it. Mine were in pitiful shape. I ended up getting creative and had to delicately cut it off with a cut off wheel.
Be careful with the threaded double pulley on the gearbox. Mine got cracked at some point prior to me owning it. While mowing one day with it it just quit. Come to find out the pulley center broke into about 10 pieces. Tough to find a replacement there.
Impact gun makes quick work of that...

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Those 40" finish mowers are dangerous beasts. Stay away from the discharge at all times.



 

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Discussion Starter #32
No different than any other mower with the chute removed...the Sear's tractors with the hole in the top of the deck the size of the dinner plate are probably worse?

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Discussion Starter #33
Did the other spindle today...it went easier since I already had the first one under my belt. Bearings were still seized on...but got it apart. This one had a bad inner and outer race on the bottom bearing...but the rollers were still good. It also had some wild double seal in the bottom it was literally a seal in a seal if that makes any sense...

I bolted it back together, threw it on the front of the 10a and tried it out...mowed like a new one! I'm going to tear it back apart and paint it, but at least I know it mows.

It looks like I need the seal for the input shaft on the drive head...how bad a job is that?

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Discussion Starter #35
I guess I'm smart enough not to let my kid play around the mower when it's working? I find these comments pretty petty considering some of the implements available...a sickle bar capable of removing fingers when not even attached to the tractor comes to mind.

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huh? i am confuse.....
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The rotary saw....

I just installed cross blades on a 30"... no front guard installed yet...
seems close...

The open pto on the shredder, etc.

Be careful all y'all
 
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