My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to rebuild the one 40" Commercial deck I have. I know it needs spindle bearings, that's why I quit using it several years ago...its something you can't verify when you buy them used in New Jersey and live in PA. I looked back about ten pages without success in finding any info.

What bearings and races do these use? I've seen reference to Timken Set 14 (?), which does me no good. What bearings and races are those, the actual bearing and race ID numbers? What is the seal? I'm looking for off the shelf parts, not Gravely at this point.

What is the disassembly process? I know how the spindles come off the deck, is the pulley friction fit (pressed on) or threaded? The reason I ask is that I already chipped the double sheeve on one 40" commercial gear box trying to pull the thing off when it's threaded. I assume the bearings are a standard install, punch and hammer to knock the old races out, and drive the new one's home?

Thanks
 

·
Gravely bug bit.
Joined
·
8,732 Posts
I'm going to rebuild the one 40" Commercial deck I have. I know it needs spindle bearings, that's why I quit using it several years ago...its something you can't verify when you buy them used in New Jersey and live in PA. I looked back about ten pages without success in finding any info.

What bearings and races do these use? I've seen reference to Timken Set 14 (?), which does me no good. What bearings and races are those, the actual bearing and race ID numbers? What is the seal? I'm looking for off the shelf parts, not Gravely at this point.

What is the disassembly process? I know how the spindles come off the deck, is the pulley friction fit (pressed on) or threaded? The reason I ask is that I already chipped the double sheeve on one 40" commercial gear box trying to pull the thing off when it's threaded. I assume the bearings are a standard install, punch and hammer to knock the old races out, and drive the new one's home?

Thanks
Set 14:
Timken Trailer Bearing Set Specifications:
Wheel Bearing cone #L44643: I.D.= 1.0000" W= 0.5600"
Wheel Bearing cup #L44610: O.D.= 1.9800"

Pulleys on the spindle are keyed. Double pulley on the gearbox is threaded.

Bearings are normal install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, that is extremely helpful.

I assume it uses two of Set 14, for upper and lower?

How is the preload set?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,777 Posts
They can be disassembled with a hammer and a vice, but a press is best for reassembly. The bearings are a slight interference fit on the shaft. Disassembly, press the shaft out the bottom of the housing, that will remove the top bearing, flip the shaft over and press it out of the bottom bearing. Reassembly, (with races already in place,) press the bottom bearing onto the shaft, put it through the housing, press on the top bearing but be sure to leave it loose with some play in the shaft, then press both seals on, watch the bottom one so you don't ruin the seal accidentally. Set preload with the top nut on the spindle above the pulley. Attach the blade to the shaft and tighten the upper nut in small increments until the spindle can no longer wiggle when you try to move the tip of the blade up and down.

Seal is National 471766

Rick


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. That doesn't sound bad at all.

I ordered enough bearing to do both spindles of the 40" and a 50" belly since they were cheap and I thought I remembered they used the same bearing. ..if not I have spares. I also ordered seals...they only had six on hand.

At the moment I don't have a press, but getting that bearing on the shaft should be no problem heating it with a lightbulb.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I wanted to add that I was able to purchase the "Timken Set 14" through Amazon for $5.89/"set". One of the comments indicated there are only enough bearings to "do a single wheel" (indicating two bearings and two races), and none of the comments indicated they were anything other than Timken. The only thing is the initial picture is something other than a bearing, while the photo under the title link is a Timken bearing...time will tell. So I bought five sets to get free shipping...

The seals were more expensive at $5/each, but I figured that was a fair price considering what I paid in the past...and these were National seals, not generic. I bought six, which is enough to do the 40", and another spindle on something else.

I probably should have checked RockAuto for the bearings and seals, WrenchHead was awesome for buying small parts like this when they existed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,842 Posts
Assuming you are referring to the 40" belly mounted deck for a 4 wheel tractor, the shafts should be a loose fit in the bearing cones. (.002 clearance fit). A hammer and a punch is all I use to remove and install bearing cups. Most of the seals I have seen were the reusable labyrinth style.

I fully assemble mower deck spindles on the bench including blade for testing. That way I know whether or not I need to make shims to compensate for shaft wear.

I use new nuts and bolts when installing the spindles on the deck. Those fasteners really take a beating from corrosion.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,596 Posts
I believe he's referring to the Commercial 40" 2-blade deck for 2-wheel tractors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes, 40" commercial from a walkbehind...I'm going to use it with a rider.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,842 Posts
I have done a rebuild on a 40" finishing deck but it has been too many years to give you any advice. I mowed with it this past weekend. It really does a nice job getting in close to fences.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I've not had this one apart, so I hope I don't find welded surprises from the PO.

I bought this from EBay so many years ago, and while it was in primer, it looked good in pictures....the front edge was perfect. Drive 100miles to pick it up to find the owner welded a piece of angle iron to the leading edge because the edge had been destoyed.

I brought it home because he threatened the EBay contract thing before I knew any better. It mowed well enough for a summer or so before the right hand spindle got rough and noisy. So I will go through this mechanically this summer and paint this fall.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Have you guys ever tried to retro fit different blades to the 40 inch decks? That's when I found out how heavy duty the Gravely design is. It's hard to find the correct length blade with a 1 inch hole in the middle. Blades with smaller center holes are plentiful and cheap.

Same with the pulleys up top. You can't find a retro-fit pulley from another mower, you usually have to go to a industrial application to find a pulley with a large enough hole in the middle. Be careful, those pulleys are easy to break with a puller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
Hardest part I had with rebuilding mine was holding the spindle while breaking the nut loose on the blade. The original design has a 3/8 " drive square machined into the end to hold it. Mine were in pitiful shape. I ended up getting creative and had to delicately cut it off with a cut off wheel.
Be careful with the threaded double pulley on the gearbox. Mine got cracked at some point prior to me owning it. While mowing one day with it it just quit. Come to find out the pulley center broke into about 10 pieces. Tough to find a replacement there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well, I got it out of storage and pulled it apart. The spindles are rought, which I knew. But at some point both idler pulleys rusted solid. And the belts are oil soaked from the other drive head leaking. So I need the idlers and the belt...and not Gravely at $22/belt and $25/idler.

The good thing is the deck is a lot more solid than I remember, it will not take much to strip and rebuild. Figure I will do the entire thing at once and be done with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Have you guys ever tried to retro fit different blades to the 40 inch decks? That's when I found out how heavy duty the Gravely design is. It's hard to find the correct length blade with a 1 inch hole in the middle. Blades with smaller center holes are plentiful and cheap.

Same with the pulleys up top. You can't find a retro-fit pulley from another mower, you usually have to go to a industrial application to find a pulley with a large enough hole in the middle. Be careful, those pulleys are easy to break with a puller.
You basically have no option for blades. I thought about buying a different blade and having the hole opened up, but the deep dish of the blade makes finding a 2.25" blade difficult.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
Well, I got it out of storage and pulled it apart. The spindles are rought, which I knew. But at some point both idler pulleys rusted solid. And the belts are oil soaked from the other drive head leaking. So I need the idlers and the belt...and not Gravely at $22/belt and $25/idler.

The good thing is the deck is a lot more solid than I remember, it will not take much to strip and rebuild. Figure I will do the entire thing at once and be done with it.
I bought my belts from Grainger I think. Nothing special about them. I think I did end up buying my idler pulleys from Richards. They were good priced several years ago and cheaper than the Gravely site. Might could try Ebay for the idler pulleys also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Re: 40" Commercial Spindle Bearings?

I found that Stens has the idler for about $8 each. Its odd they only list the old Gravely part numbers though. That made them harder to track down.

The belts I will probably make a run to Napa or the local autoparts house...should be an easy thing to measure for them.

Just got to get the idlers ordered now.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Well, took a chance and ordered belts and idlers from Amazon. I found the belt specs and ordered based on that, the idlers were fairly straight forward.

Once I have all the parts, I will tear it apart, clean it up, repaint it, and reassemble it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
What were the specs and/or part number you used for the belts?
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top