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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 38" snow cannon at a very reasonably price. The PO said it had a problem with the gear box. When I got it home I pulled the fill plug and found brass shavings. OUCH ! By the way there was not one drop of oil in the box. Before I tore it apart I was able to find a NOS brass gear. After removing the gear box/ reel assembly, I pulled the pillow block off the right side reel. After removing the adjusting nut and washers, the reel slid right off. I was then able to slid the gear box off the shaft. after getting the gear box apart I was surprised to find the worm gear and bearing in great shape. Off to find the O rings and seal. It sure would be nice to find an old to new part # cross reference

Todd
 

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Of all the pictures I've seen of worn gears on this forum, that one looks like the worst!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Probably because there has not a drop of oil in the gearbox. It looks like it leaked out of one of the housing O-ring seals. I took the O-rings to my local hardware store to match up with no luck. The 9667 shaft seal is also an oddball. I went to the SKF website with dimensions without any match. Knowing the seal was made by Garlock, I found their website. Strike two. So I called Richard's and have the seal and O-rings on the way. I was able to remove the seal without damage, but am going to replace it anyway. Before I took the box apart, I was able to find a NOS gear. And the two needle bearings for the worm gear. I could reuse them, but again I will change anyway. The pillow block bearings turned smooth, but seemed dry. So I got some Kroil in the bearing, following with 3in1 oil. But the ball shaped bearing housings were frozen in the pillow block casting. Kroil again to the rescue. Was able to remove the bearings no problem. Got the gearbox housing cleaned up. Will replace the needle bearings tomorrow, and polish the drive gear shaft. Will try and post more photos.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to replace the needle bearings to day. The one bearing in the housing stuck out about .175" towards the seal side. I don't think that right, but that how I reinstalled it. I can change later when I do a "dry run" assembly. I was able to remove the bearing from the end cap,without damage using an old time method. I packed the hole completely with grease a drove a bushing driver that fit the ID of the bearing with a hammer. You can also use a shaft or cut off bolt to do the same. The trick is to find something that fits the bore good, after its full or grease, strike it with a quick blow with the hammer. You will need to repack as grease is squeezed out and the bearing moves. The reason this works is you cannot compress fluid, i.e. grease so it forces the bearing out. I then chucked the gear shaft on the brake lathe and polished the shaft using emery cloth. I left the old gear on because I only wanted to polish were the seals or o-rings ride. It did not come out perfect but is smoother and better than it was. Should be able to get the other parts cleaned up tomorrow.and give it a dry run.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did a "dry run " assembly and found there was no reason for the bearing #9660 to stick out towards the seal side of the housing as it was. After driving it flush I found the inner side of the bearing lines up with an oil groove cut in the housing. I also reinstalled the bearing in the pinion bearing cap as it was. And found it blocked the oil grooves in the cap. After driving the bearing in fully The outer edge of that bearing lined up with the oil groove. I also found the bolt holes in the cap only line up with the housing threaded holes in one position. Maybe they are machined as a pair? My hat off to Richards Lawn and Garden!!! I placed my order for the seal and O-rings Monday 12-11 It took less than two minuets and they know exactly what I needed. The parts were in my mailbox 12-13. I polished up the pillow block bearings using a wire wheel, and the holes in the pillow blocks using a Dremel and wire wheel. I also resurfaced the metal clutch discs using a roloc disc with an angle die grinder. Should be able to re assemble tomorrow, will try to post some photos.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I assembled the gear box today. It was pretty strait forward. I used a bushing driver to be sure the input shaft seal was square to the bore. I made my own bearing cap gasket. the original gasket measured 0.019" The gasket I used was 0.014" The end play of the worm shaft eyeballed out to about 0.030"
I pre lubed the seal, O-rings. shafts and bearings with a good quality wheel bearing grease. It looks like I can reverse the steel clutch discs if needed, so I painted one side of each to prevent rust. The gear box turns smooth in both directions. So now it's off to the blower housing

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was able to get a real good look at the blower housing today. It does look solid, with a good cutting edge. But there are some repairs in that area. Should be good enough to use this season. Will weld in a new lower section in the spring. The shoot turns but is stiff. Also found nesting material in the chain housing. I'm just going to replace the chain and give the chain sprocket shafts a good lube. It also is missing the skids, and see no mounting points for the lift assist springs. Anyone got a photo of the springs attached to the blower?

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was able to get the blower housing in the shop today and remove the chain housing. It is no wonder why the shoot was hard to turn. The chain was rusty with a lot of nesting material in the housing. With the chain removed it was hard to turn the sprocket shafts in the bushings, due to rust and lack of lube. After cleaning there is not much wear on the same. Lubed them up, and they turn just fine. I have the chain soaking in a small tub of PB Blaster. Should be able to reassemble tomorrow. I went to my local machine/welding shop and bought the steel for the missing lift weldment. That set me back all of $11.00. My best guess is that the "flag" on the male end, should be 8" long with a 3" width on one end, and a 1" width on the other, and 1/2" thick. Will try to post more photos in a day or two

Todd
 

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Man, that's going to be nice when you get done!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I went through the chain drive and it still binds, or is stiffer than it should be. The only thing I see is that the large or driven gear is slightly bent. Going to straighten that and go from there. I made the female end for the lift weldment, and a rough part of the "flag" for the male end. Should be able to at least mount, raise and lower the blower on the tractor soon. More photos shortly

Todd
 

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Quite a project, can't imagine why the PO was having trouble with it!! That is a heavy built unit though so should last 30 - 40 years when you're done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Should last me the rest of my lifetime and be the last one I need. Unless I find a bigger one. Hoo Rah!! I pulled chain housing apart again to straighten the driven gear. But could not remove the shoot drive gear from the shaft. After eyeballing the run out of the driven gear,it was not too bad, maybe 0.30" I noticed the chain housings were bent a little, so I straighten them out. That made it much smoother. But there is a lot of play in the front cover bushing, and the driveshaft. That gives me about 1/4" run out. I don't think I can ream and install a bushing in the cover, so I will add a washer or two between the cover and drive gear, after I get it off. The drive chain is a # 35 with 51 links, including the master and one half link. I made the female push rod for the lift, and the "flag" for the male rod. Just need to weld it on. I also received some much needed drive parts from a member. Thank you Aaron!
 

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Glad those showed up without issue. Sorry I didn't reply to your PM's, my grandson thought my computer needed a drink of formula.....

Laptops hate Similac. :D Phone access to the forum is spotty at best.

I'm glad they will help!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got the lift weldment welded up today, and installed the slightly binding chain drive back on the blower housing. I used a small vise grip to turn the drive, and was much tighter than should be. I sprayed all moving parts with PB blaster, but is still stiffer than should be. Just as a test tried a section of heater hose on the crank handle, and it twisted in half. Hopefully I can get that corrected before the weekend, as I have all parts needed to attach the blower to the tractor. But I will need at least three buffalo hides, because baby its cold out there.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
"Do you think it will fly Orville?" I got the blower together today. I removed the large sprocket, chucked it in a large drill press and checked the run out with a dial indicator. My first reading was almost 0.200". Using a large wide monkey wrench to straighten the sprocket, I got a TIR of about 0.025". Works much better. I installed the reels to the shaft torquing to 85 ft lbs. Kinda funny that it a standard thread nut, but the only socket that fits well is a 33MM. The reel and shoot turns smooth. I also installed a new rubber reflector from Richards. Now if I can find some idiot to help me unload it from my truck.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I mounted the blower yesterday and it works fine. The manual lift works much easier than I thought it would. We had some snow but not enough to try it out. I tried using the 8162-B with the blade, but with out chains did not have much luck. The 8122 has the tires set in the narrow position so I mounted the blower to it. Both tractors need tire ballast, weights and chains to be used on my lane. So when I do that I will put the blower on the 8162-B and the blade on the 8122. But wait, if I do that I will need to swap the wheels wide to narrow. Then back to wide for the 50" mower. Guess I need to find another tractor. My wife will be thrilled and overcome with joy

Todd
 

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Typically the push rod on the snow blower has a reinforcement welded to it.... you may have a bending problem without it....


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My wife will be thrilled and overcome with joy

Todd
LOL. Like many of our wives have. Yes, welding a piece of stock along the lift rod might be the thing to do.

Nice job getting the blower back together and working well. It will all be worth it when you see how good these blowers are.
 
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