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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last month, we picked up a Model 36 Blower for our '66 110. Today, I mounted it up to the tractor for the first time. After a little fiddling, and some adjustments to the mechanical lift rod, I was pretty pleased:




We got a new drive belt at the local auto parts store (JD doesn't stock it anymore.) Fired up the tractor, engaged the pto, and off it went.

The one thing I am now wondering about, is chain tension. It's hard to describe sounds, but the blower makes a sort of cyclical chunking noise. It could be a bearing?? Or, when I watched it real closely , it looked to my eye like the chain was too loose and was flapping a bit.

Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust chain tension? I couldn't see anything obvious. Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, I made an adjustment, which eliminated about 3/4 of the noise I was hearing. I could probably get it a little tighter.

my 200 makes a little noise till i put it under a load
Interesting. No snow around here to test it, if that's what you mean by putting it under load. I guess I'll have to be patient. Thanks!


Well, I hope folks enjoyed the photo of the blower all rigged up. Stay tuned -- new tires and rims, and wheel weights are still to come.

I'm still amazed that this machine is 46 years old! :)
 

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When I first got a 37 blower for my 212, the chain made a noise comparable to a rail car full of bricks falling down a hillside. The chain was slightly loose, but not bad. Never fell off. Well, I decided to replace it just to have it done, and not worry about it. Now it sounds like some teenagers tuned Acura. It made a big difference on noise level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I first got a 37 blower for my 212, the chain made a noise comparable to a rail car full of bricks falling down a hillside. The chain was slightly loose, but not bad. Never fell off. Well, I decided to replace it just to have it done, and not worry about it. Now it sounds like some teenagers tuned Acura. It made a big difference on noise level.
I plan to tighten it a bit more, then wait for some snow to see how it runs/sounds. But I'll keep this in mind -- I wonder if JD still sells the drive chain for this blower?

Thanks Cat.
 

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Hmm interesting. My 36 blower on my 112 didn't make any strange noises at all, even under a heavy load of snow. Ive looked at the chain, and it does seem loose, but not extremely bad. I would possibly suggest buying some chain and cable lube from your jd dealer, I have a can of that and I use it as much as possible. If your chain looks very rusted something you can do is to take the chain off and soak it in some light oil for a couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Most of the noise was definitely from the loose chain. It was VERY loose. I plan to tighten it some more, too.

If necessary, I will replace the chain after I try some lube and/or soaking it. I had to give it a good dose of PB Blaster to free it up -- it was pretty stiff to begin with. So I thought I would leave that on there a bit before wiping and lubing it.

Since some of you guys are familiar with the Model 36, let me ask a couple more questions:

1) I can only find one grease zerk (on the shaft between the pulley and main drive gear). There have got to be more, no?

2) I can't find anything that looks like a shear bolt. There is one square head bolt on the end of the auger near the chain/gear drive, could this be it?

3) Not getting as much lift as I'd like to see. Maybe 3" at best. Is that normal for a mechanical lift 110/112, or should I expect more.

Thanks everyone. And thanks for the compliment, Bruce!
 

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I think there is only that one grease fitting. There is no shear bolt. Overload protection is accomplished by having the tensioner on the loaded side of the belt. When you hit something the sudden increase in tension on the belt pushes the idler hard enough to kick it out of gear.
 

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How much snow did you have? The single stage blower has to be loaded up pretty good to really throw snow. Also if it was wet, then you're lucky it came out of the chute! To adjust your lift go to the threaded end of the lift rod by the rocker arm and adjust it so that it lifts more. Be careful because you need to balance the lift with the lowering on it! I ended up adjusting that a couple of times till I was satisfied!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I think there is only that one grease fitting. There is no shear bolt. Overload protection is accomplished by having the tensioner on the loaded side of the belt. When you hit something the sudden increase in tension on the belt pushes the idler hard enough to kick it out of gear.
Thanks Alan. Okay, only one zerk then. Hmmm. And that bit about the shear pins (lack thereof) makes perfect sense. Much appreciated.


How much snow did you have? The single stage blower has to be loaded up pretty good to really throw snow. Also if it was wet, then you're lucky it came out of the chute! To adjust your lift go to the threaded end of the lift rod by the rocker arm and adjust it so that it lifts more. Be careful because you need to balance the lift with the lowering on it! I ended up adjusting that a couple of times till I was satisfied!
We haven't had any snow to speak of around here -- so when I say "tested" I mean a dry test just to hook it up and get it spinning. The way this winter is shaping up, there may not be any real world tests!!

How high do you suppose I should be able to get the lower/cutting edge of the blower off the ground? Right now I have about 3".

I am using a lift rod that is threaded on the forward end, and has a slot with bolt on the rockshaft end. I have shortened that up most of the way on the slot end.

The blower came with a rod that is threaded on both ends. I wonder if I should swap it out for the one that was already on the tractor? Does each implement have a lift rod with a customized length?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Belt Drive Pulley?

Okay, yet another question.

I was poking around looking at utube videos of the 36 blower last night. Saw some things that got me wondering.

We have a PTO/Mule Drive (not sure if Mule Drive is the correct terminology). By engaging it, power via a long belt can be sent down and back to the mower deck or rear tiller. This is what it looks like:




As you can see above, there are two engine pto pulley sheaves, which are stacked one on top the other, with the smaller further outboard. The Mule Drive (?) belt is already in the larger of the two sheaves. That leaves the smaller of the two sheaves for the snowblower drive belt.

But, in this video, the 36 blower is being driven by the large pulley sheave (the guy seems to have the belt running on the wrong side of the idler pulley, and I think the auger is even spinning in the wrong direction):

Utube Video of 36 blower on JD 110

So, I am wondering if we will get the correct blower/auger rpm, if we are using the smaller sheave? That guy in the video doesn't have the two pulley sheaves stacked up like we do. It's hard to say what the diameter of his sheave is. Maybe he only has the smaller sheave?

Anybody have any experience with this? Thoughts?
 

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if you watch the end of the auger shafts on the outside of the housing from the side view closely, you can tell it is indeed spinning correctly(forward), if you have the belt on the larger pully you would get more rpms out of the blower, but the belt may not line up correctly
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
if you watch the end of the auger shafts on the outside of the housing from the side view closely, you can tell it is indeed spinning correctly(forward), if you have the belt on the larger pully you would get more rpms out of the blower, but the belt may not line up correctly
Okay, I think I see that it's spinning the right direction now. But, he definitely has the belt routed differently from us. His idler pulley is pushing down on the top side of the belt, whereas our idler pulley is pushing up from the bottom side of the belt. Here's how ours looks, first disengaged, then with the blower engaged:







Who is correct? The way the guy in the video has it set-up, I'm not sure how he could disengage the auger? He even seemed to start the engine with the blower engaged?

I also wonder how to figure out if we're getting the correct auger rpm with this smaller sheave?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
it looks like that rod coming up from the right side has something to do with that tensioner pulley, maybe not i dont know
Yeah, it does. Push the rod, and the idler pulley swings back and up, tensioning the belt. Pull the rod, and the idler pulley swings down and forward, relaxing belt tension.

I'm pretty sure I've got the routing correct, and the guy in the video led his belt incorrectly -- that's why he couldn't disengage the blower for start-up.

So now I'm mostly wondering about the size of that sheave and auger rpm, as well as lift height. If someone has photos of their 36 blower rigged to a 110/112 RF, I'd love to see them.
 

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I have pictures of my 36 blower hooked up onto my sf 112. That would be different though, it has a bigger drive sheave, so I had to get a longer belt. Also I don't have to use the rod to shut the blower off. I agree with you though, my blower doesn't lift very high either. Probably 3 inches also, ive tried adjusting that, it just doesn't seem to do very much. I don't quite follow your belt problem... But since the tensioner pully in a flat type pully, it should ride on the flat side of the belt, not the v portion. Hopefully this helps a little.
 
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