[Guntoter]

I have a Craftsman riding tractor, 26hp v-twin 54" cut with the 356-0510 hydrostatic transaxle. When I step on the pedal quickly, the tractor moves forward slowly then finally picks up speed and runs along fine. Any ideas?

Is there a way to check oil level on this externally? All I can find is a schematic on the Sears site but cannot find a service manual so far. To change the filter does it require a complete disassembly?

 

[GT_80]

I dislike Hydrostatic trannies for reasons like this. My Gear driven may be loud and leak a little oil, but it ALWAYS works. I hope you have good luck with it!

They are nice for plowing snow, not to have to shift though!

 

[Guntoter]

Thanks GT80. Anyone have any knowledge on changing the filter, or better yet, where to get a service manual? I hate to tear into this unit without a manual to refer to when problems occur.

 

[MY FYN 79]

Read this-

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=139480

To the best of my knowledge, a filter change is going to be a large project. I was very satisfied with the difference a simple fluid change made. Easy to do and worth a try before a major teardown.

 

[Fcubman]

It would be worth the effort to make sure the belt is tight and not slipping.

 

[GT_80]

I don't care what anyone says, OIL does not last forever!!

BUT you have to remember these are built as "5 yr" mowers- so if the manufacturer says that the fluid does not have to be changed for the life of the tractor, maybe they don't expect it to have a long life.

Take for instance my GT18... my dad bought it in 1982, four years old, and used it over 900 hours through it's life (still going). Always changed the oil, changed the rear diff oil at least once every couple years, garaged it, keep the air filter clean, cleaned the plugs, and it is still running and driving.
Many people do not garage their mowers, do not do maintenance, and they only last a few years. So if the expected life cycle of a mower is only 5 years, they yeah... I would say that the fluid never would need to get changed either. Especially if it's synthetic. However, if you want your stuff to last, it needs maintenance. I just don't get how they market stuff these days. It really isn't built to last as it used to be, however it costs a lot still, and its expensive to fix.

I have had people ask me my opinion on things like extended warranties on vehicles... I always ask "how long do you plan on keeping it?" "If only for 3 years, get a 3yr warranty... if 5 years get a 5yr warranty... If you pan on keeping it for a long time, get the best warranty... It doesn't cover wear and tear, but all the 'expensive' parts are usually covered"


Wait what was this thread about again? might have gotten off track a little...:Stop::hide:

 

[Guntoter]

Thanks for all the replies. I believe the belt is tight, but I will check that out. To change the oil on my tractor differential, it appears I will have to pull the unit out. I THINK I have found a manual for it on Amazon, its supposed to be for the 310-0500series which I believe might be the same basic unit I have. I ordered the manual and after I get it I will see if it gives info on disassembly. I am pretty sure what I have (if not a loose belt) is a clogged filter and/or dirty oil. I mow a pretty huge yard at a country residence with lots of dust, dirt and grass flying around when I mow. Its always an almighty mess when I mow. If there is a vent on the unit then i'm sure it has pulled that crap inside. Too bad they dont put a drain plug on it.

Anyone know what the exact oil capacity of the unit is? A buddy found info saying it holds 76 ounces but that seems like quite a bit for its size.

 

[MY FYN 79]

Did you look at the link I posted?

 

[GT_80]

Thanks for all the replies. I believe the belt is tight, but I will check that out. To change the oil on my tractor differential, it appears I will have to pull the unit out. I THINK I have found a manual for it on Amazon, its supposed to be for the 310-0500series which I believe might be the same basic unit I have. I ordered the manual and after I get it I will see if it gives info on disassembly. I am pretty sure what I have (if not a loose belt) is a clogged filter and/or dirty oil. I mow a pretty huge yard at a country residence with lots of dust, dirt and grass flying around when I mow. Its always an almighty mess when I mow. If there is a vent on the unit then i'm sure it has pulled that crap inside. Too bad they dont put a drain plug on it.

Anyone know what the exact oil capacity of the unit is? A buddy found info saying it holds 76 ounces but that seems like quite a bit for its size.

No that fluid amount sounds pretty close... The rears on My sears tractors take 5 QTS!! just over 2 qts doesn't sound like too much for those type of trannies

 

[Guntoter]

Did you look at the link I posted?

Hi, yes I did look at it, thanks for the link. I may try that, the only problem I see is how to tell how much oil came out and how much needs to go back in. I am guessing there is no oil check plug on the side of this unit?

 

[MY FYN 79]

The manual for these transmissions can be looked at for free on Hydro Gears website. Sucking it into a container would let you know how much came out, and refilling is as simple as making sure its up to the plug on top. The manual explains it. There are no check plugs on the side or anything though.

I cant stop you from pulling the transmission out if you feel the need, but I'll just say again how dramatic of a difference the fluid change made on mine! My original plan was to change it twice- once to suck the majority of old fluid out, fill it, run it for awhile, then change again. It worked so well after one change I just left it.

 

[Guntoter]

The manual for these transmissions can be looked at for free on Hydro Gears website. Sucking it into a container would let you know how much came out, and refilling is as simple as making sure its up to the plug on top. The manual explains it. There are no check plugs on the side or anything though.

I cant stop you from pulling the transmission out if you feel the need, but I'll just say again how dramatic of a difference the fluid change made on mine! My original plan was to change it twice- once to suck the majority of old fluid out, fill it, run it for awhile, then change again. It worked so well after one change I just left it.

Hey thanks, that some info I needed right there. So I fill it to the top of the unit? It appears the plug is at the very top so it basically is completely full of oil? If that is the case I will go that route first. I will look for those online manuals also. thanks again.

 

[Guntoter]

I wanted to check back in and let anyone who cares know I have the problem fixed on my mower, which is a Craftsman YS 4500 by the way.

I was unable to remove the rear plate on my tractor to access the oil fill hole on the transaxle as the plate also mounts the transaxle and would be a rather in depth job to remove the plate when the transaxle is much easier to remove alone. So I pulled the mower deck and decided to take Fcubmans advice and check the drive belt. Discovered the spring loaded idler was out to its limit and the belt still had slack and I could turn the transaxle pulley. This did not seem like a good thing but since I had no new belt at the moment to try out, I went ahead and pulled the transaxle out and changed the filthy oil in it. It really was not that bad of a job the worst part being the grass and dirt everywhere. I had found a manual online: http://ipl.ordertree.com/ipl/627/BLN-51260_P1.pdf so I was able to find out how much oil the trans was to take. It gets filled to the top, by the way, which is what I did with 20/50 oil.

So, I put the unit back in, purged it, then tried it out and it still was very slow moving, almost would not move for several seconds. After I shut it down I felt the drive belt and it was hot, indicating it was definitely slipping. So I ordered a new belt from Sears, along with some other parts I needed for the tractor, and they came today. I put the new belt on and gave it a try. It darn near will pull a wheelie now so obviously it was just a loose belt. But I am glad I changed out the oil as it was pretty bad looking. The tractor runs like new and turns and reverses much better also. This belt had probably been slipping for a long time but finally got bad enough it would just not grip anymore.

One other thing I did was after I purged the transaxle, I was able to get above it with a ratchet and remove the fill plug and using a mirror I noticed the oil level was down a bit, most likely from purging the air out of the system. I used a small paint can cap with some oil in it to top off the unit then put the plug back in. There is an expansion tank on it so when it heats up the oil will push out into it and suck back in when cold.

Thanks all for the help. Glad to have my mower back in business as I have a large yard at my house in the country and this mower is very much needed.

 

[Fcubman]

Glad you got it!
And thanks for getting back to us!!!