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JOHNNY LAW
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Discussion Starter #1
Mt PTO clutch was squealing so I ordered a new one. I sprayed pb blaster on the top of the shaft under the engine and let it soak overnight. I was able to remove the bolt holding the clutch with an air impact. I put the bolt most of the way back in and gave it a few good hits with a hammer to try and loosen the clutch. No dice. I tried a three prong puller and it ripped the bottom half of the clutch off. I'll take that, it is progress. I put the puller back on and tried to remove the rest of the clutch. No luck. It bent the sides down but it will not budge on the shaft. The pictures show my progress so far. I put a different bolt and washer into the shaft so I have something to put the puller against. I drew this in red since it is not in the picture. I am unable to move that clutch and the puller keeps bending the top lip of the clutch down. Is the part where I drew the arrow the actual shaft that comes out of the motor? If it is part of the clutch that would explain why it is just bending and not coming off. I have not put the original long bolt back in because I do not want to damage it with the puller but maybe I need to use it so the puller puts pressure on the actual shaft. Anyone know what I'm trying to say? Is that the motor shaft below the clutch or is that part of the clutch itself that I have been pushing against with no luck? I'm ready to set this thing on fire and push it off a cliff. Thanks for any help or suggestions!
 

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Man that's one tough PTO. I would try soaking it good with PB for a couple of days when you have a chance then try it again.
Good Luck
 

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JOHNNY LAW
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208 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I think I found my answer. The part sticking down is not the engine shaft. It is part of the clutch. I have been using it as the pulling point for the puller but there is nothing pushing against the actual shaft to pull the clutch off. These pictures I found show how short the actual shaft is. ****.
 

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JOHNNY LAW
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Discussion Starter #5
I tried real quick with the bolt back in there. It just bent the bolt sideways instead of coming off. I'll have to think up something that will work. I give up for tonight.
 

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I don't see snap ring pliers in your picture anywhere.
Is there a large snap ring on there?
Every PTO clutch I have done has a large snap ring.

AJ
 

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JOHNNY LAW
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Discussion Starter #7
There is a snap ring on the lower bearing but I already removed that part of the clutch. I didn't care if I destroyed it because I have a new one.
 

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what they are saying is you can use a bolt
but you need to put in a steel rod in the hole first
long enough for the bolt to hit and use it for the/ the puller
just like on a generator

john
 

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what they are saying is you can use a bolt
but you need to put in a steel rod in the hole first
long enough for the bolt to hit and use it for the/ the puller
just like on a generator
EXACTLY right... just like removing a generator rotor.

Find a steel rod of the max diameter to fit in the hole. The length needs to be such that the bolt can purchase a max number of threads in the PTO shaft.

Do not try to use the bolt to "pull" the rotor. You will strip the bolt or rip the threads out of the PTO.

Sung up the bolt and then crack the head of the bolt with about a 20 ounce ball peen. If the rotor doesn't snap free put another 1/4 turn on the bolt and whack the bolt head again with the ball peen. Repeat as necessary. The rotor will come off.
 

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JOHNNY LAW
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Discussion Starter #10
Let me get this right. I put a small piece of steel rod in the hole and then start to screw the bolt back in. Then hit it with a hammer, screw it in more and hit it again??
 

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HEAT!! That has been my best luck with taking those miserable things off. Make sure the area is clear of grease and oil and have a fire extinguisher close by. When you put the new one on make sure you neverseize the crap out of it. Another thing I have done and you just have to be careful is take the bolts out that hold the engine to the frame and gently pry with a pry bar between the engine and frame. Don't break your lower case but this will give you a leverage point that will pry the traction drive pulley and pto clutch off. Only other thing you might have to get is maybe a new traction drive pulley. Deere isn't smart enough when they send these things out from the factory to put neverseize on the shaft but they will tell us to do it in the tech manuals. Hope this helps!!
 

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JOHNNY LAW
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Discussion Starter #12
I'm afraid of using heat and damaging the seal. I used a deep well socket that fit into the remaining part of the clutch and that way I didn't have to potentially ruin the threads on the shaft. The bottom of the socket fit perfectly against the endge of the engine shaft. Once I tried the socket it came right off with the three prong puller. Too bad I wasted 5 hours trying to get it off the wrong way. Next step, change the main drive belt and all of the springs and pulleys. Then loosen the engine mounts and lift it up enough to drop the water pump and change both of the gaskets. One of them has been leaking and I'm sick of it.
 

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There is a snap ring on the lower bearing but I already removed that part of the clutch. I didn't care if I destroyed it because I have a new one.
Doesn't matter about saving parts of the clutch to "REPLACE" The bearings...John Deere Does not offer a replacement bearing. If your bearings are bad you will be replacing the entire clutch assembly.... Sorry guys.
 

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Doesn't matter about saving parts of the clutch to "REPLACE" The bearings...John Deere Does not offer a replacement bearing. If your bearings are bad you will be replacing the entire clutch assembly.... Sorry guys.
Wow, major league old thread resurrection.

But since we are here...there is nothing proprietary about the bearings and you most definitely can replace them, you just can't purchase them from JD. I replaced the bearings on my GX345 clutch.
 

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I was having this very same issue yesterday. I apologize I should have clarified myself. The comment was directed towards anyone that only use OEM parts. You are correct if you don't tear the clutch or magnet up getting it off you can go to your local auto parts or if you have a besrings and drive specialty dealer in your area and have them cross reference the number on the bearing.I appreciate you catching that denverguy! Everyone stay safe and have a great weekend.
 

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I'll come in here with my experience(s) trying to remove a PTO clutch from a 1999 345 several years ago. Due to the fact Deere engineers didn't know how to build a PTO clutch to be removed from a crankshaft is a ease fashion and cause "rust" to form and make it impossible to get the clutch off. So, I decided that to remove a rusted PTO clutch correctly "without" damaging the engine, I had to take a cutting wheel and cut the dammed thing off. Once I got it off and honed the crankshaft so the new PTO would slide on the shaft and allowed the correct amount of special crankshaft grease so anytime I needed to remove the PTO again, it would come off easier. For those that wash down their 345 GX345, always turn on the PTO to spin any water that has collected on top of the PTO pulley.
 

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Just looking at the rust that is coming out below the PTO, you effectively have it welded. I had to do what been there did with a 420 rear brake drum. I had to cut it off even after using heat and a 5 lb hammer plus every size puller I had. Rust can be almost as strong as a weld when the tolerances are tight. One less demanding way you might try is to get a bucket that will accommodate the entire PTO and upper pulley and fill it with kerosene or a similar fluid and let it sit for a few days. From the looks of the rust, none of the penetrant you put on top of the pulley has penetrated down the shaft. I used a pickle fork, a steering ball separator, between the upper pulley and the bottom of the engine mount to get an old 345 PTO off but I do not believe it was nearly as rusted as yours.
 

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All - Please note that this is a 7-year-old post that was long ago resolved by the OP.
 
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