My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 69 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Alright I just did my introductory post and have been searching for a while and have not been able to find someone with a similar issue so here it is. I just bought a 1990/1991 John Deere 332 with supposedly 600 hours non running condition for $1400. It came with a 50" solid deck, 3 point rock shaft no arms, a new set of V61s and Goodyear ags, new battery, and front weight bracket. I dove into it thinking just bleed the injector lines and it should fire right up, well I was wrong. Then I went in to look at the top of the injector pump, one of the pins that that pulses the fuel was frozen in the bore. Then I made a huge mistake, I took the injector pump apart to fix that pin. 3 hours later trying to wrap my head around how the crap the thing worked and I got the pump back together just to realize I had one of the pins 180 degrees out. Called it quits for the night and next day start scratching my head some more trying to figure this all out. I have all of the injector lines off and I notice puffs of white smoke coming from the top of the injectors. This is my first time working with diesel anything so any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Right before I called it quits I took the tops off of the injection pump and cleaned it out and put it back together and now only one is spiting fuel out. I don't want to buy a new injector pump for $1600 so I'd love some help.
Thanks in advance
Jake
 

Attachments

·
Kish JD 318/420/430
Joined
·
3,563 Posts
You could find a diesel injector shop that can rebuild/tune it to factory specs also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
That is my end goal is to take it to a shop to get it tuned properly but right now i need to see if it will run before I start throwing money (of which I am short on) at it. I also know that a seal needs to be replaced because there is more diesel than oil in the crankcase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I have the download for it and I also went out and found the engine manual but they don't give me a baseline for the pump adjustment.
 

·
Kish JD 318/420/430
Joined
·
3,563 Posts
I would stop by an injector shop and see a tech to get a printout from the manufacturer docs they have.
 

·
Parts collector
Joined
·
3,118 Posts
What Russ said. Just drop it off a a pump shop. Have them reseal it and set it up. Make sure you know where the timing marks are set at also. ( I hope you marked them before you pulled it out)

I have wanted to rebuild an IP for a Cummins. Watched 30 vids but still don't have the courage to pull one apart. I had a friend of mine that was a diesel mechanic pull my old one apart and put new seals in it.

Yes if there is diesel in the oil it needs a new output seal to the timing gear side. (someone else had this same problem on here)

As for the "puffs of white smoke" with the lines off the only thing I can say is pull the injectors and take them to the pump shop for a pop test. They should be at least around 160BAR or 2360psi IIRC before they pop and if your engine compression is popping them there is something wrong.

here look what I found.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Okay I will do that here shortly, now I'm going to assume that I shouldn't see any smoke coming out of the injector itself. When I took the injection pump apart I didn't mark anything and I took everything off of the housing itself.
I managed to find an exploded view of the injector pump. It is not the exact model but it looks similar.
https://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/YM1510INJPUMP.htm
 

·
Parts collector
Joined
·
3,118 Posts
Okay I will do that here shortly, now I'm going to assume that I shouldn't see any smoke coming out of the injector itself. When I took the injection pump apart I didn't mark anything and I took everything off of the housing itself.
No, at 2360psi that injector and valve should hold the compression of the cylinders, nothing should be coming out of the injectors. Are you sure it's not coming from the feed lines?

You may have a valve problem too but you will need to do a leak down test for that.

Personally I think you got ripped off. I do not in ANY way, think that tractor only has 600 hrs on it. I have one with well over 2000hrs and it runs like a top.

https://www.google.com/search?q=yanmar+3+cylinder+diesel+injector+pump+timing+3TH66&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=6GYh-88hMCk3lM%253A%252CDnZrS4pRscVfqM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTPUQju5H2Dv274BQACMfSYojbmnA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwij1MXU4orlAhWOq1kKHdh7AAwQ9QEwAHoECAUQBg#imgrc=6GYh-88hMCk3lM:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I might have gotten ripped off but it was the cheapest one I could find in my area, also how do I perform a leak down test on it? I do have a leak down tester.
 

·
Parts collector
Joined
·
3,118 Posts
I might have gotten ripped off but it was the cheapest one I could find in my area, also how do I perform a leak down test on it? I do have a leak down tester.
I paid $900 for mine. Needed front tires (bought them at TSC for $75), paint and a seat (still not done), a muffler and that side side cover, and a deck. I had a 50" deck for it and I got the rest of the parts for $65 from a 330 the guy I bought it from parted out. So I'm at $1040 for mine and it runs awesome. Now to strip it down and repaint it this year during spring after the snow since I will be putting the snowblower on it. :tango_face_devil:

Harbor Freight has them. https://www.harborfreight.com/Diesel-Engine-Compression-Tester-20-Pc-62594.html

You can pull the glow plugs or the injectors up to you. I would pull the glow plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I know that 332 i went and looked at it... i passed so fast with the lack of info the owner had. It was tempting with all the extra things but you said it a new pump is 1300 and When i talked to columbus diesel they estimated around 900 to just rebuild it. I hope your able to get it running. good luck!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,205 Posts
Well, my 332 was in worse condition when I bought it, with 700 hours but it did run. I gave $1800 for it several years ago. These projects are fun, but can get frustrating. First of all, you wont find anything detailed about rebuilding or tuning the pump. That info isnt available to the general public. Most dealers cant even get it unless they are licensed injection shops. Find a good shop and take it to them. It shouldnt be more than a few hundred, unless something is seriously wrong. In that case, Ebay a good used pump. Take the injectors with you, they need to be pop tested and pressure checked. The injectors are supposed to pop at 1700 +\- 70 PSI. The injection shop can shim them to the correct pressure if they are off, but if the pattern is bad more than likely new nozzles will be required. I had to do this to mine immediately after purchase. It was more of a "I want to know everything is as it should be" type of deal. Keep in mind that pulling the injectors means you will need new cooper crush washers (I would also replace the injector seats while your at it), then with some basic maintenance none of this will ever need to be done again. They are fantastic machines, I wouldnt trade mine for anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I did a lot of digging yesterday and found some pdf documents of how to take apart a similar pump, same concept just a different fuel rail style. When I get home tonight I am going to disassemble the pump and put it back together properly and hope for the best. I also called around and got some quotes for getting the pump rebuilt and it'll be in the ball park of 600-800. I also asked about the injector and one of the mechanics said it could be stuck open. I am going to take a ton of pictures of this entire process so I don't mess it up again.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
669 Posts
Worried, I briefly/quickly looked through the pdf you posted. Lot's of good info. The first thing that REALLY caught my attention was "component parts machined to close accuracy of 1/1000mm." Other posts I've read state that cleanliness is an ABSOLUTE must. With an accuracy of 1/1000mm or less than 1/2 of one ten thousandth of an inch, I have to say that cleanliness is a must, pretty much to the point of hospital operating room cleanliness. I'm not saying that you can't do it, just be aware of the issue. Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Worried, I briefly/quickly looked through the pdf you posted. Lot's of good info. The first thing that REALLY caught my attention was "component parts machined to close accuracy of 1/1000mm." Other posts I've read state that cleanliness is an ABSOLUTE must. With an accuracy of 1/1000mm or less than 1/2 of one ten thousandth of an inch, I have to say that cleanliness is a must, pretty much to the point of hospital operating room cleanliness. I'm not saying that you can't do it, just be aware of the issue. Bob
I saw the part about cleanliness somewhere so I went out yesterday and bought myself a few cans of non chlorinated brake parts cleaner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I went through the pump last night and cleaned it thoroughly and assembled it. Put it on the 332 and bled the line, cranked it over and the pump now works as it should. It shut the fuel off when its supposed to and let fuel through as it should. Unfortunately I went to start it and it coughed and spit but just wouldn't go. I took 2 injectors apart and found they needed some attention. I put them back in and still nothing. I am going to send out the injectors to get worked on because it is not to terribly expensive compared to the pump.
What are the part numbers for the oring and copper washer for the pump?
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 69 Posts
Top