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Three of my friends
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Been getting things done on the 332 but was going to move it and it won't crank.the wire going to the solonoid has 12 volts when i turn the key,the starter has 12 v to the post on the starter but no action with the key,I took off the starter and it works jumping over the 2 posts so thats a good sign,some one bypassed the seat switch so that is out of the equation for now,there are 3 large red wires to the pos side of the starter that go back through the harness so I expect one must have an issue,I checked the fuses with multimeter and all are good,it was starting very good till now.
Also need someone with more knowledge than I to look at the picture of the VR connector at how one wire has been hot and bubbled the plasctic connector,what will cause this one to get hot?
 

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Been getting things done on the 332 but was going to move it and it won't crank.the wire going to the solonoid has 12 volts when i turn the key,the starter has 12 v to the post on the starter but no action with the key,I took off the starter and it works jumping over the 2 posts so thats a good sign,
When you measured the 12 volts to the starter solenoid was it connected or disconnected?
I am confused on the part where you removed the starter then jumped the posts and it worked. I understand jumping the posts, but was the starter off the engine? Did you have the chassis grounded?
If you measured the 12 volts at the solenoid all connected and then it worked by jumping the posts I think you have a intermittent issue with the solenoid. But if you measured the 12 volts on the solenoid wire not connected you could have a weak connection in the circuit. Starter switch, starter relay etc.




there are 3 large red wires to the pos side of the starter that go back through the harness so I expect one must have an issue,I checked the fuses with multimeter and all are good,it was starting very good till now.
One is likely a charging circuit, then the other two are likely power supply wires.

Also need someone with more knowledge than I to look at the picture of the VR connector at how one wire has been hot and bubbled the plasctic connector,what will cause this one to get hot?
Over current likely did it. Looking at the parts diagram I am unable to determine what wires go where. Do you know what that wire goes to? I will google some more to try and figure it out.
Edit to add- Well after google image 332 regulator I think that is one wire from your stator. Which I would ohm the stator, neither wire from stator should ohm to ground if it does it is no good. If it tests out good then my guess is corroded connection adding resistance and making heat.
 

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If you have a 12 volt test light it can do a light load test. Can start where you wish but I will write as starting at the ignition switch. And assuming my google found schematic is correct :)

1. If lamp lights supply to switch should be good move to 2.
2 onward the ign switch needs to be in the start position.
2. If lamp is on switch should be good move to 3. If no lamp then switch is not making contact in start position.
3. If lamp is on wire from ign switch to relay should be good move to 4. If lamp not on wire is bad.
4. If lamp is on relay is good. If no lamp we need to test the relay circuit.
5. If lamp is on the starting circuit is good and issue is with the starter solenoid/starter internal circuit.
 

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Three of my friends
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Discussion Starter #4
M4m,I had the starter out and grounded to the frame when I jumped the posts,I don't know where the wires go but will do more research today,got to spend most of the day in Dallas so won't have a lot of time to look at it,Thanks
 

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The 332 block is electrically isolated from chassis due to the large rubber vibration isolators. There is a big strap on mine that goes from the engine chassis to the frame chassis to make up for this electrical isolation.

Is that installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jakenbake,no reason for it not to be (hasent been off) but that is a thought.Thanks
 

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May sound amateur, but make sure your speed control lever is pushed all the way left hitting the neutral stop switch. I know on my 332 if its even off my a couple millimeters it won't even try and start if I don't have it pushed far enough left. Also, make sure the parking brake is pushed all the way forward or u will get the same result as well.
 

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Jim, The bubbling is a sign that the connections corroded and the amount of resistance built up there causing the temp to increase till you have that effect. I saw this on my 318 VR. Carefully pull the connection (it will likely be brittle) and if it comes apart clean all contact surfaces and then take the VR off the frame and clean the contact (grounded to frame) surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Tim and HUN,got the starting corrected,it was dirty ignition switch connector,now to fix the connector as Tim indicated.
 

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My excell program isn't working with my part numbers. But you can get the 5 pin connector for the VR which I think you should do. The wires from the alt to the VR commonly overheat/short/etc and that is what looks like what happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks CM and no2498, i will look in those things.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Tim thanks,it has a new vr on it,works fine,i pulled the connector but that wire would not come out,I did manage to get it worked around and get it tight,you think i might need to cut it out and put a new end on it and it would just be by its self..?
 
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