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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction! Here's the problem with my 332: The battery voltage reads 12.8 key off, not running.
Running, it drops to 12.2 (regardless of engine speed)

I have replaced the VR (I'm on the 2nd brand new VR).
THe white wires from the alt read ~40 volts AC. If I plug them into the VR, it drops to 20 AC.

If I measure the voltage with the red lead removed (the lead on the VR) then the white wires read ~40 volts AC, and the battery terminal reads 23 volts DC! If I plug the red wire onto the terminal, the reading drops to 12.2.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Any ideas?

I'm at a loss.... it seems the alt is good. The battery is good. The VR is good.
There must be a wire shorting somewhere, or something else bad...but I can't figure it out.

Thank you if you can help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have the VR pictured on the right. I've read that many other owners removed that plug and replaced it with new terminal connectors, so I tried that and the connections do seem much better, but the problem remains.

As for the battery, it's brand new and strong... I'll again make sure every connection is super clean....

Still at a loss for an answer...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I really hate feeling stupid, but this 332 is driving me nuts!

I'm on the 2nd voltage regulator/rectifier, and this one has started melting!

Each of the electrical terminals that plug into the VR seems to have the proper current: the 2 white wires each have ~40AC at full throttle, the green wire reads around 11.7 (maybe low), the red BATT wire terminal reads the same as the battery (12.8) until I plug it in to the VR. THe VR BATT terminal reads 28 volts DC with the wire unplugged (!) but when the wire is connected, the voltage drops to 12.2 (and then the battery begins to discharge until the engine turns off).

What else can I test / replace / change to get this machine to charge the battery?? I'd love to just replace the AC alt with a regular alternator from a car... I'm even open to the idea of using the front PTO to run an alternator (I only use the 332 for the loader which runs off of the built-in hydraulics)...

I can't believe it's this difficult to solve.... I'mm thinking that I'm probably going to buy another VR, but I don't want to cook another one...

Thanks for any good ideas!
 

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One other thing to check is the grounds and switch connections. I would remove each switch and clean up the connections. I would also check the VR plug and make sure that they do not look melted.

As far as grounds go I would check the ground from the block to the frame. This is located just under the fuel filter on the left side of the engine. I would also make sure that the VR is well grounded. The VR ground is made with the bolt that connects it to the frame under the muffler. I would check to make sure that it is clean.

In my case I was melting the VR connections and the final fix was cleaning all of the grounds and switches. In addition I replaced the ground strap from the engine to the frame and cleaned up the connections.

BTW - my initial start in this whole search was that the connections to the VR were too hot to touch.

FWIW - Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Frank! I guess that's my chore for today: clean every contact and check that ground connection. It must be a common problem...it sounds like the problem I am having is the same as the problem that you had..
 

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One other thing to check is the grounds and switch connections. I would remove each switch and clean up the connections. I would also check the VR plug and make sure that they do not look melted.

As far as grounds go I would check the ground from the block to the frame. This is located just under the fuel filter on the left side of the engine. I would also make sure that the VR is well grounded. The VR ground is made with the bolt that connects it to the frame under the muffler. I would check to make sure that it is clean.

In my case I was melting the VR connections and the final fix was cleaning all of the grounds and switches. In addition I replaced the ground strap from the engine to the frame and cleaned up the connections.

BTW - my initial start in this whole search was that the connections to the VR were too hot to touch.

FWIW - Frank

:ditto:

I'll add, follow each wires from the Voltage Regulator, meaning uncover them if it's needed. (for lack of proper terms)

Make sure you don't have a short circuit, I had a similar problem once and it was a squeeze wire touching the frame.

Keep us in the loop.:goodl:
 

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Regulated Voltage test:

332: Disconnect fuel shutof solenoid connector
Measure & record battery voltage

Start engin and let run 1-2 minutes fast idle

Check voltage again - should be 13.5 - 15 = Regulator OK! Over 15 replace regulator, below 13.5 do unregulated voltage output test.


Unregulated voltage output test:

Disconnect alternator 2 pin connector, start engine at fast idle, measure AC voltage at 2 pin alternator connector. Output 30 volts or more check current output. Output less than 30 volts. May indicate weak magnets. Repair or replace alternator.

Current Outpt test:

Disconnect fuel shutoff solenoid connector.

Crank engine for 10 - 15 seconds to remove battery surface charge.

Connect wire connector (????)

18 Amps or more: Alternator OK

Less than 18 Amps: Veryify good ground. Verify voltage at green terminal wire of voltage regulator/rectifier.

If voltage and ground OK, replace VR!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well....I tried the tests mentioned.. I got 14.9 amps from the alternator, so I guess there is a bad ground..but I have checked, rechecked, added extra grounding straps, re-re-checked...and still it won't charge...

This is driving me crazy! I love the 332, but I'd give anything for a regular alternator instead of the system on there now! I had to put the loader on my 318 to do some work today, and I hate having to switch mower decks and everything to both mow and use the loader...

My next step is new battery cables, new cable straps for grounding, battery, frame, engine, VR...then I'll be at the end of the rope.

This is the 3rd VR I've tried, the battery is new, the alt checks out except for the amps apparently being low (ground problem??)

Any other ideas or suggestions? Thank you!
 

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Did you verify voltage on the green wire at the VR like Tim wrote? It looks like the VR gets battery voltage from the red wire coming from the starter and ignition voltage on the green wire when the key is on. Is the keyswitch bad or dirty maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, I had a chance to play with it again tonight. The green wire has voltage = to the battery.
I also noticed 3 different wires behind the dash that are unplugged. There is a fusible link with a plug-in connector that doesn't appear to go to anything. It has an orange/white and a black/white wire together. There is also a black wire, and a purple wire that are not plugged into anything. Is that the way it's supposed to be?

I checked the ground by connecting a wire from the battery (-) directly to the body of the VR- no change in voltage. It's still putting out about 12.0 or less at WOT.

I can't believe it this difficult to figure out! Does anyone have any ideas of how to fix this? Thanks!
 

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Not sure if this helps, but the Voltage Regulator is really nothing more than a bridge rectifer. 28 VAC applied to the outside of the bridge (pins 2 & 4), nets 14 VDC at the opposite terminals (pins 1 & 3) of the bridge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
THe serial # is: M00332X420472

My big questions now are: What wire plugs onto the back of the key switch, and where does the orange/white and black/white (connected) plug into?? [These are in the dash]

Thanks!
 

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It looks like there is an orange/white and black/white coming from the keyswitch. They connect to the ground terminal of the keyswitch and the O/W one goes to the Engine Coolant Temp light and the B/W one goes to the Low Fuel Level light. HTH :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Great! Well....that solves the issue of what plugs onto the key switch....but it's still not charging!!

I don't have the service manual, but I believe I've done every test that I can think of! I'm on the 3rd VR, it has to be good-the problem hasn't changed with each new one.

The alt puts out the 40v AC (unplugged) at around 14.9 amps or so (perhaps low)
The battery is fully charged and starts strongly (12.9 volts)

The terminals on the VR have the proper readings: green wire = battery voltage, red is same as battery (or maybe a tiny bit more- it does go up when I increase RPM- idle is maybe 12.4v, WOT is around 12.6...)

It just will not go up to the 14 volts that I'm expecting...and the battery does eventually die (usually when I'm deep in the woods using the loader!)

I've run a ground wire from the battery (-) directly to the VR case...no change...so, what else?!
Thanks!
 

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I found this note in the manual, not sure it is an issue but might add some clarity:
NOTE: 332 (S.N. —475000); The PTO clutch,
fuel pump and head and tail lights are
individually grounded to the machine frame. All
other electrical components are grounded
through the harness. Inside the harness, the
ground circuits are spliced together with one wire
connecting the ground circuits to engine ground,

then to frame ground


Also check the ground cable from the frame to the engine at the rubber mount and make sure it's clean too.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If anyone that has a 332 could please tell me what wires plug into the back of the key switch, I'd really appreciate it.

I see different wiring diagrams, with different wires going to the keyswitch, but on my 332 I have 1 black plug connected to the key switch, and it has 3 wires. It looks like a wire may have come out of the black plug, and there is also an empty male terminal on the key switch.

Some diagrams show a grounding strap, but I can't find that on my model!

Any help would be appreciated, since I have a good feeling that this is the origin of my charging problem. THis all seems to have started after I had the dash apart to repair the steering column.
 
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