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The ignition module sounds likely... had the same EXACT symptoms on my GX 345... obtained one from a member and problem solved... after much diagnosis, coil swaps, spark plug swaps,... etc. Still running!! It’s that “printed circuit looking thingie”...😖
 

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The ignition module sounds likely... had the same EXACT symptoms on my GX 345... obtained one from a member and problem solved... after much diagnosis, coil swaps, spark plug swaps,... etc. Still running!! It’s that “printed circuit looking thingie”...😖
Good thought but different animals. The 325 engine is magneto based, it doesn't have an ignitor as the GX345 does.
 

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Yeah I'm thinking maybe he has a shorted diode in the kill wire harness?


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I agree and I'm not sure why he seems to be resistant to disconnecting both kill wires and trying it. It's such a simple check and the suspense is killing me. ;)
 

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I agree and I'm not sure why he seems to be resistant to disconnecting both kill wires and trying it. It's such a simple check and the suspense is killing me. ;)
Imagine his surprise when he finally tries that and it fixes the problem, then he can't shut the engine off!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Not being reluctant with it, but which part is the kill wire harness to test this out? Are they the wires that attach to the coils?
 

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Not being reluctant with it, but which part is the kill wire harness to test this out? Are they the wires that attach to the coils?
Correct, the kill wires are the wires connected to each coil, from both coils at the coil.

As Trendofdestiny points out, your engine will not shut down when you turn the key off unless you have a fuel solenoid on the carburetor. Whether you have a fuel solenoid depends on the year of your tractor. Just apply full choke to shut down the engine.
 

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Remove the valve cover from the cylinder that the engine keeps running on.The opposite cylinder is working that one is not. If you have a compression issue which I believe you do yo should find a problem withe the valves, push rod, or rockers. If the engine gets overheated due to a rodent nest the valve guides will move and depending which way they may hold the valve open or not allow the valve to open which can break the push rod or rocker arm. Have had a few that the rocker arm mounting bolt backed out so the valve would not operate properly. You may have also noticed a lack of power and if you listen may be a strange popping sound coming from the air cleaner area. If the valve guide has moved replace the head. Or if you are money shy you can drive the guide back in place BUT it may repeat the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Looks like I've got a couple more things to check out...thanks again all for the tips/advice. Unfortunately, I probably won't have time to mess around with it until later this weekend. Hopefully by then I have the new coil show up in the mail incase that's part of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
OK, so I got the new coil in the mail today and had time to play with it. Sounds a lot better with the new coil, but still sputters occasionally and really bogs down with the PTO turned on. I then went and pulled the kill wires as suggested and it sounded amazing. Nice and strong at any throttle position and the PTO made no difference. It sounds like a new tractor!

So now I have two questions. With this being the case, what part do I need to replace to fix this issue with the kill wires? Secondly, would it be bad to run the tractor with the kill wires disconnected until that part arrives? I understand the procedure for stopping the engine with it in this condition.

Thanks again for all the help you all have been with this!
 

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The kill wire harness should be it's own part. It's a Y-shaped harness on a Briggs. I'm not sure if other wires are included on the kawi. You can find it in the JD parts catalog or, if you have trouble, one of us can find the number for you.

It's fine to run the engine without kill wires. A long time ago, it was a convenience feature. Some engines simply had no spark plug boot and a piece of springy metal that you held against the plug until it shut down lol.


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That's fantastic news, victory is near.

I'm not sure I agree with ToD's recommendation, while Briggs and Stratton's twin-cylinder kill wire harness has diodes integrated within to prevent the coils from shorting, it's my understanding that the Kawasaki magnetos have this diode integrated within the coil, not the harness which would point to an issue with the coil that you didn't replace or to the ignition module.

@Trendofdestiny - do you know with certainty that there are diodes in the Kawasaki kill wire harnesses?

I have a couple of suggestions before you spend any more money on parts::
  1. Reconnect the kill wires to the coils, disconnect the kill wire from where it connects on the other end. You are checking to see if there is an issue with the ignition module circuitry or the coils. Make sure the disconnected end isn't grounded. I'm expecting the engine to run poorly in this configuration.
  2. Assuming the above checks out. I would swap out the coil you didn't change with the coil you recently removed or just replace it with a new one. Reconnect the kill wires and run the engine and I expect that you are done. Make sure that you mark the coil that you will be removing as I believe it's junk.
Lastly, as ToD states, it's fine to run the engine without your kill wires but your engine shut off safety features will not work.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Interesting, and thanks for the link to the service manual! I tried looking around for something like that but kept coming up empty handed.
 

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Just to eliminate this suspect, do you have the correct gab between the flywheel magnets and the coils? Roughly speaking a business card can be used to set that gap. Insert the card between the flywheel magnet and the loosely mounted coil. The magnet will pull the coil up to the card surface. If not, push it so it sandwiches the card between the flywheel magnet and the coil. Tighten the coil bolts and remove the card. Do the same for both.

Not sure what you meant by the "fins are flared" on the new coil that quit. If they were set with too little, or no gap, they may have been rubbing on the flywheel, and maybe heating for ninjas awsome gaming setup it to produce the damage that you saw. Maybe a pic can help someone provide a suggestion on that.

Let us know what you can find out.
Unfortuantely, if my 325 has a time delay module, I cannot seem to find it. I looked around this morning and I do not see anything that closely resembles one at all. Would the part look different than I'm expecting on this particular model?

As for swapping coils side to side, I'll have to try that out in a little while to see if that changes anything at all...thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well, I tried a new kill wire harness on it today and it seems like that wasn't the issue. Runs great when the wires are disconnected, but stumbles with the kill wires attached. Guessing the next step would be the ignition module?
 

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I believe it's the coil that you thought was good and didn't change out. I would suggest disconnecting the kill wire from that coil (leaving the other connected) and see how it runs. If it runs fine, the coil has a bad diode in it - just make sure the disconnected end of the kill wire is not grounded.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I ended up getting another new coil...so both are installed and gapped correctly, so unless I've gotten a couple bad new coils, I don't think that's the issue.
 

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That's helpful - I agree with your conclusion. Unfortunately, that's an expensive part.
 
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Discussion Starter #40
Well, at least little by little I'll have it figured out and have some other parts along the way that I know the age of.
 
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