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My valves have been leaking at the top since I bought this great 3206 but have gotten worse. So I decided to go ahead and repair them. Thanks to this forum and OakTodd in THIS post, I ordered and received the correct O-rings and backer rings from McMaster-Carr very fast !

I removed the seat, fender and floorboard then degreased and thoroughly pressure washed everything. My 3206 has two valves, deck lift and 3 point. Upon removing them I noticed a couple of things, first the bolts in the bracket holding the arm pivot for the deck lift were very loose and second, the arrows on top of each spool are pointing towards each other. This makes me think the previous owner has been in there before.

My question is, after rebuild, should these arrows both point to the rear, front, towards each other or does it even matter ?
 

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To the rear.
 

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My valves have been leaking at the top since I bought this great 3206 but have gotten worse. So I decided to go ahead and repair them. Thanks to this forum and OakTodd in THIS post, I ordered and received the correct O-rings and backer rings from McMaster-Carr very fast !

I removed the seat, fender and floorboard then degreased and thoroughly pressure washed everything. My 3206 has two valves, deck lift and 3 point. Upon removing them I noticed a couple of things, first the bolts in the bracket holding the arm pivot for the deck lift were very loose and second, the arrows on top of each spool are pointing towards each other. This makes me think the previous owner has been in there before.

My question is, after rebuild, should these arrows both point to the rear, front, towards each other or does it even matter ?
I never had a 3 point hitch on a 3000 series, but IF the valves worked properly(up was up, and down was down) before the repair, I would definitely PUT THEM BACK THE SAME WAY THAT THEY WERE BEFORE THE REPAIR.

I would also recommend replacing the springs on the bottoms of the valves, Part # 732-3059 before reinstalling.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I never had a 3 point hitch on a 3000 series, but IF the valves worked properly(up was up, and down was down) before the repair, I would definitely PUT THEM BACK THE SAME WAY THAT THEY WERE BEFORE THE REPAIR.

I would also recommend replacing the springs on the bottoms of the valves, Part # 732-3059 before reinstalling.

Ahh ! good point. Actually the 3 point has always been the opposite, handle down was 3 point arms up and handle up was down. I had to think about it every time, not natural. And it's that spool that has the arrow pointing to the front. So arrow to the rear will fix that ?

The arrow on the deck lift spool points to the rear and it works as expected, handle down = deck down.

I'll order those springs today. Thanks !!
 

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If you turn the arrow to point the opposite direction, the valve will "operate in the opposite direction."

What was up, will now be down, and what was down, will now be up.
 

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OK Joel, great to know, thanks, that reversed control has always bothered me. I've ordered the spool springs.

I have a couple more questions, has anyone here ever ordered the plastic flanged sleeve bearings from Fastenal seen HERE ? The $2 to $3 each pricing I've seen from other places just seems too high for what they are.

And, my go pedals are much harder to press down than my previous JD with go pedals were. Can this be caused by the 727-3090 damper ? These kinds of struts usually loose pressure with use and age (I thought).
 

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OK Joel, great to know, thanks, that reversed control has always bothered me. I've ordered the spool springs.

I have a couple more questions, has anyone here ever ordered the plastic flanged sleeve bearings from Fastenal seen HERE ? The $2 to $3 each pricing I've seen from other places just seems too high for what they are.

And, my go pedals are much harder to press down than my previous JD with go pedals were. Can this be caused by the 727-3090 damper ? These kinds of struts usually loose pressure with use and age (I thought).
I have not tried those plastic flanged bushings from Fastenal, but prior to discovering that replacing the springs on the bottoms of the spool valves cured the issue of the valve not recentering, I did install Bronze flange bushings on the valves of one of my tractors. It helped some, and the valve seems a bit more "rigid" than with the plastic bushings installed, but I did not cure the recentering issue until I installed the springs. I may install the BFB on the spool valve of some of my other tractors, but it is not a priority.

I doubt that the cylinder is the cause of the hard to push pedals. I think failure mode for it is to loose dampening.

I have not (yet) tried it, but replacing spring, PN 932-0429A, with a lighter spring, would probably reduce the pedal effort that it required.

#37 on the diagram at this link.

I have installed BFBs on the pedal linkages of most of my tractors and I DO recommend doing that. They make the pedals a little easier to push, but more importantly, they take a good bit of slop out of the linkages and I doubt that they will ever need to be replaced.

When I get some time I will start a thread with sizes and/or PNs of the BFB that I used.
 

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The BFB's would be awesome, I'm thinking will need to open the holes up some to take them (?) I'll keep a look out for that thread.

I don't have a recentering problem with either valve but now's the time to replace the springs and I appreciate you suggesting that.

I will try changing that 932-0429A spring with a lighter one. BTW, while I have the floor board off, I'm doing your speed mod (y)
 

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The BFB's would be awesome, I'm thinking will need to open the holes up some to take them (?) I'll keep a look out for that thread.

I don't have a recentering problem with either valve but now's the time to replace the springs and I appreciate you suggesting that.

I will try changing that 932-0429A spring with a lighter one. BTW, while I have the floor board off, I'm doing your speed mod (y)
The holes do need to be enlarged and there are some other mods needed to use BFBs.

When you have the spool valve springs out, compare the length of the old and new springs. The springs cost less than $2 each and I now replace the springs as "routine maintenance". Even on valves that do recenter OK, the old springs are always shorter.

It you try a lighter "neutral return spring" please provide a brand/part #, if you can. That is something I have considered trying, and I might, if it works well for you.
 
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