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Discussion Starter #1
OK, where do I start! Finally got the engine sorted out (so I thought). New starter installed and wired correctly. Makes a grinding noise! It's been a few months fixing the oil leaks and electrical problems. Everything in place, battery charged, turn key, oil light and battery come on, proceed to engage starter, motor turns over, will not fire, stater make grinding noise. Check fuel, fuel shows in filter. Try starter fluid, engine fires, and dies. After several more tries, finally fires and stays running. Move on to installing 47" snow blower. Not happy with starter.

Installing snow blower, worse than installing the single stage snow thrower. The owners manual really glosses over the installation procedure. Finally get the snow blower installed. Along with this I built a plywood counter weight box based on the design by theroosterb. Now to try out the 47" snow blower. We had a snow storm Friday, left we about 2" of frozen cornmeal snow with a base of 1/4" of ice. Snow blower works great. Need to adjust the skid shoes so that the scraper blade is in contact with the pavement. Skid shoes just ride on top of the snow. Engine just not right. Hands cold. Notice a strange smell and notice smoke coming from the pto area, Shut down, go get hands warm and swap gloves for a pair of ski mittens.

Go to restart engine, cranks, more grinding, will not start, try starter fluid, nothing. Tractor is spending the night outside. I've got to move back in to the garage, remove the snowblower, then move tractor to work shed. And another storm is coming Sunday night.

Solutions: First I am going to have the battery load tested. I've been thru bad cells before and it acting like that??
Second, got to pull the Ogura pto clutch and inspect that??? Where to get another Ogura pto clutch without applying for a loan!
Third, pull the engine for the (I don't know how many times it is now) and check the starter and the flywheel. Might pull the solenoid from the new starter and put on the old starter and test that prior to reinstalling.

Gentlemen, I'll entertain any and all ideas for solutions. And if anyone has a great procedure for installing the 47" snow blower I d love to hear it!

Tomorrow, back to shoveling snow!
 

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A "grinding starter" is typically a misalignment of the starter & flywheel. Pull/pry starter as far away from flywheel as bolt holes will allow. You may even want to open holes 1/32".
Smoke/smell from pto. Check belt first, could be rubbing or could be wrong belt (NOT JD) JD uses a specific angle on their belts and often aftermarket belts slip or wear out soon!
Ohm out pto coil, should be 4 ohms. If smoke was from coil, you should show a much lower ohm reading.
As far as hard starting, I'd pull carb and clean THOROUGHLY! I like to soak mine in a bucket of carb cleaner for a day or 2. I've never had good luck with spray cans of cleaner. Bob
 

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So I just bought a 47 blower yesterday. I haven't tried detaching and re-attaching it yet, but the manual looks to have pretty good directions in it. What specifically is the issue you are having with the installation?
 

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Thread bump 2/11/2020

had smoke coming from the pto area. removed the Ogura front pto today and did the Ohm test, result 3.8 ohms. I did the test 4 or 5 times with the same result. I am going to assume that the pto field coil is usable. what can I do about condition of the surface of the field coil? I"m thinking brush any loose material away with a used tooth brush and smear some epoxy over the coil? What epoxy to use? or use something else? is this coil on it way to dying ?? tackling the starter tomorrow.
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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I got that bad feeling about this. The coil may test okay when cold on the bench, but may fail operational or smoke again. Something caused it to burn up (bearings in clutch or maybe engine overheating).
 

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None, I'm with Russ, "bad feeling about this"! Do 1 more ohm check. Check from each lead on coil to case on coil. One may (??) show "0" ohms/continuity, but one should not. Windings could be shorted to case internally. If OK, brush any loose material off and reassemble. Check air gap, 015" - 018", and run for 20 minutes, no load. Engine heat may be getting into windings causing them to expand and short out. Bob
 

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Re Starter grinding. I second PAGUY's advice, pull that starter and check alignment before further damage can be done. You might be able to see evidence of rubbing or shiny steel showing what is hitting or grinding and then shim to correct it. Might also verify that you have the correct starter.

Good luck and please post any solutions that you find for these issues so others can learn. Thanks!
 

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Not much to add to the suggestions already made....but count the teeth on the starter...make sure it is the same number as old one
 

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Thread bump 2/11/2020

had smoke coming from the pto area. removed the Ogura front pto today and did the Ohm test, result 3.8 ohms. I did the test 4 or 5 times with the same result. I am going to assume that the pto field coil is usable. what can I do about condition of the surface of the field coil? I"m thinking brush any loose material away with a used tooth brush and smear some epoxy over the coil? What epoxy to use? or use something else? is this coil on it way to dying ?? tackling the starter tomorrow.
Thread bump 2/12/2020
I tried rwmeyer's suggestion of testing from one wire to the "frame" of the coil, results were the same for both wires "1" which is the reading when the meter is on, at the "Ohm 200" setting and not doing any testing. Rechecked the reading from yesterdayusing the same set up with the same results of 3.8 ohms. I turned the coil over and you will see what I observed in the picture posted today. Both wires exiting the coil "frame" are bare on one side, and one wire has a second bare spot. I think that this coil is toast. Although, if I cover the bare spots with liquid tape, will liquid tape hold up to the heat of the engine? And again brush the loose epoxy from the surface of the coil and cover it with a high temp electric grade epoxy, would that last?? I am ordering a used coil, appears to be in good condition from the "bay".
Comments? And thanks for all comments
 

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None, I'd say you've got a 50/50 chance...or less... of saving the coil with liquid tape. I think it will stand up to engine temp, but you don't know how far inside the insulation is broken/missing. Lay it on heavy and hope for the best! I wouldn't get concerned with the other side, just remove any loose debris. You could (??) coat that with liquid tape also! Bob
 

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At this point I don't see that you have anything to lose trying the liquid tape. Worst that will happen is it doesn't work and you will have to replace the coil. Best is that it does work and you don't need to change out right away. But kick and extra $10 to savings because it likely will go at some point down the road and need replaced.
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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Hi-temp RTV (used for sealing metal exhaust ducts on wood/pellet stoves) where the wires go into the coil frame and heat shrink tape for the damaged wire will help make temporary repairs till a new coil as budget and time until the replacement arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thread bump 2/12/2020
I tried rwmeyer's suggestion of testing from one wire to the "frame" of the coil, results were the same for both wires "1" which is the reading when the meter is on, at the "Ohm 200" setting and not doing any testing. Rechecked the reading from yesterdayusing the same set up with the same results of 3.8 ohms. I turned the coil over and you will see what I observed in the picture posted today. Both wires exiting the coil "frame" are bare on one side, and one wire has a second bare spot. I think that this coil is toast. Although, if I cover the bare spots with liquid tape, will liquid tape hold up to the heat of the engine? And again brush the loose epoxy from the surface of the coil and cover it with a high temp electric grade epoxy, would that last?? I am ordering a used coil, appears to be in good condition from the "bay".
Comments? And thanks for all comments
Thread bump 2/14/2020
I am covering the two lead wires with liquid electrical (permatex) good for 400*F. The wire on the left I am going to solder and cover with heat shrink tubing. Ordinary electrical solder (non acid core) OK? this wire is almost severed. Don't know how they got pinched.
 

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Sounds good! Acid core is used for plumbing, rosin (no acid core) is for electrical work. I'm also thinking your engine may get up to 250ºF MAX so you're safe with a 400ºF liquid tape.

As to how they got pinched, someone took the coil off for whatever reason and didn't pay attention to wires when reinstalling. It's happened often!

Just to be sure after mounting, ohm each wire to each other AND to frame/engine! Bob
 

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I tried rwmeyer's suggestion of testing from one wire to the "frame" of the coil, results were the same for both wires "1" which is the reading when the meter is on, at the "Ohm 200" setting and not doing any testing.
Are you sure that's not an I (capital i) for infinity. If the ohm meter leads are not touching anything then it should be reading infinite resistance, as in "no current can flow at all". It should not be reading 1 (the numeral one).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Are you sure that's not an I (capital i) for infinity. If the ohm meter leads are not touching anything then it should be reading infinite resistance, as in "no current can flow at all". It should not be reading 1 (the numeral one).
You are most likely 100% correct. It look like a 1 to me. I will check it later. Thank you!
 

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Four (4) ohms is considerable resistance, and the picture posted shows tremendous heat from the coil itself. Fool around if you want, but that coil is bad and needs to be replaced.
 
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