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318 Transaxle Problems

2783 Views 21 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Displaced Hokie
Bought a pretty nice old ( 86-89 ) model I think. Owner quit using it due to transaxle problems. Upon getting it home I have already noticed the transaxle disconnect lever and plungers have some issues. One plunger seems to go up and down like I assume it is supposed to when you actuate the lever while the other one is frozen in the down position. Could this be causing the inoperable condition? Any help is appreciated.
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shoot some pb blaster on it and let is soak.. however, if the pump is bad it may not have any pressure to push the plunger up...
id also give it a filter and trans fluid change.. do you know if there is any fluid in the trans ? should take 6 qts
ric, if it does not go up when running you have a problem.

pb blaster or kroil might be all it needs to free it up.

and yes if those are stuck down you won't move in one direction or the other, or at the very least it will be slow and weak
Well I freed up both valves and have them in the correct position . Got the motor running and wow does it run smooth. But..........the hydro pump is not working. I have no power steering , no deck lift , nor does it even try to move in forward or reverse . I did check the fluid and it is right there in the window . How much does it cost to rebuild the pump and is there a tutorial ? Thanks
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One other thing thats odd is I can push the freewheel lever down and engage the valves but there is still no freewheeling .
I backed up to it and winched it on my trailer.
The drive pin for the charge pump is broken.

- Remove the drive shaft.

- Mark the top of the charge pump housing.

- Remove the 2 bolts securing the charge pump housing and remove the housing itself.

- You will find the remains of a 1/8" x about 7/8" pin (actually a needle bearing) in the cross drilled input shaft and the inside of the cover or pump proper.

- Remove the bits and pieces for disposal and install a new pin. It's a slip fit in the shaft so turn the shaft so the hole is horizontal.

- Put it all back together.

It may take a few seconds after startup to draw fluid from the reservoir before it's up to full service.
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The drive pin for the charge pump is broken.

- Remove the drive shaft.

- Mark the top of the charge pump housing.

- Remove the 2 bolts securing the charge pump housing and remove the housing itself.

- You will find the remains of a 1/8" x about 7/8" pin (actually a needle bearing) in the cross drilled input shaft and the inside of the cover or pump proper.

- Remove the bits and pieces for disposal and install a new pin. It's a slip fit in the shaft so turn the shaft so the hole is horizontal.

- Put it all back together.

It may take a few seconds after startup to draw fluid from the reservoir before it's up to full service.
Thanks Tudor for the instructions. I sure hope thats all thats wrong with it.
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Oh by the way, when I take the drive shaft loose from the pump will it slide forward enough to clear after I unbolt it from the flywheel ?
see attachment: REMOVE AND INSTALL CHARGE PUMP PDF - p.62 - 66

complete w pics

hope this helps

J
________________________________________

1986 John Deere 316, 38" deck, G6 Gator blades - original owner, purchased jan 1987
2010 Cyclone Rake Z10

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Thanks Tudor for the instructions. I sure hope thats all thats wrong with it.
Lose the charge pump and both the hydro and the implement lift hydraulics will not function. The only other things that will cause the same effect is the failure of the drive shaft or the engine.

Since the engine was running, that leaves the drive shaft, which has to come out in any event and can be inspected at that time, and the charge pump.
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Well I did remove the charge pump this morning and sad to say the pin was intact in the pump. I suspect something deeper inside the pump is wrong but no idea what it might be. Perhaps the best solution now is to find a good used pump and swap them out. Thanks for the help though guys.
Check list for implement lift/power steering failure.

- Fluid level
- Filter condition
- Drive shaft connections
- Implement lift relief valve function
- Check valves function
- Charge pump drive connection
- Charge pump gears condition

Any failure in this check list will also cause the hydro not to function.

Additional check list for hydro failure at the same time as implement lift failure.

- Nothing.

The hydro will not function for more than a few seconds without the charge pump.

Check list for hydro failure with the implement lift working correctly.

- Check valves function
- Hydro input shaft inboard of the charge pump is broken
- Swash plate roll pins slipped out of place or broken
- Damage to the hydro pump and/or motor cartridge
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Split the pump apart because I was curious as to what had happened . Didnt take long to find out. Some of the lower (reverse ? ) cylinder block brass thingy's had come loose from the plungers and locked the output shaft up. It also destroyed the stainless steel plate with all the holes in it . The cartridge body itself is undamaged and the splines are fine too. I think if I had a few parts I could repair this pump and be back in business. But I see that individual parts arent sold new.
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Contact these folks. Some members have made positive comments about their service.
Everything you need to get it running again is available, and yes, it is worth it to do the needed repairs. You have two options to get this running as I see it. Pay for the parts from the link TUDOR provided, or get a used unit off ebay.

First, the new parts WILL be pricey, but they are new. They will likely outlast you.

Second, used parts are relatively cheap. But they're used, and no one knows how they were cared for. With that said, you dont see many, or really any failures of these, so your probably safe with a used one. This is especially true if it comes from a reputable seller likes Joe's outdoor power or the like.
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Well I found the parts I needed at a reasonable cost . Just wanted to show you guys what was wrong with the pump. Evidently one of the brass sliders came loose and started the chain reaction of tearing the plate up and then dislodging more of the sliders. The piston bodies and the cylinder block were unharmed.

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Where did you get the parts?
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