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318 starter

708 Views 10 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  wheelinndealin
Starter decided to quit yesterday so I ripped the engine out and replaced the starter. Now it seems like I have no power going to the ignition switch. I checked and I have 12 volts going to the starter but not even the oil light turns on when the key is turd over. Although the pto lights do come on. Any ideas?? I'm at a loss
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Check the auto resetting thermal fuse under the battery. Check the other 2 fuses 2/3 amp and 20 Amp plus those holders. finally, Finally check neutral switch, seat switch, (Brake switch if equipped), finally the Ignition Key Switch.

Double check the little wire (purple color on mine) to make sure it is on the solenoid spade, that one always get me.

PTO wire is blue
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What do you mean the solinoid spade?
Any chance you can take a few pictures of your fuses in the holders. Someone hacked my harness and there is wires hanging all over, I only have one fuse that I can see
Here are pics:

The first pic is the 2 or 3 amp fuse in plastic fuse holder, Should be replaced with blade type fuses like today's vehicles. The metal can is a auto reset 20 amp fuse, replaced by dealer when the starter pulled to much current.

Auto part Fuel line Wire Vehicle Engine

The next series of pics show where the purple starter wire hook to the starter, it is buried between the starter and engine. It is easily pulled off, mine just did when I tried to move wires out of way for a better pic (ugh)

Auto part Wire Engine Fuel line Automotive engine part

This next pic (very left) shows dirty plug in place on spade

Auto part Wheel Vehicle Metal

The next pic shows spade on start solenoid, without the dirty plug on it

Auto part Metal

Next pic is pulled off plug

Auto part

The other 25 Amp fuse is an auto reset fuse is on the right hand side (hour meter side below battery and battery holder. Couldn't get pic. (sorry)
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Traced the problem to this thing. It looks like it had a positive and ground running to the same terminal and a positive running to the other terminal. Which doesn't make any sence. Any ideas what it is and where it goes. It is currently hanging below my brake pedal.


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That is the auto reset 25 Amp thermal fuse, if it is bad, it probably died to age. I would check it with a DVM or VOM for continuity, it should read 0.0 ohms. It may be weak and can't hold the load. It is usually bolted just below the battery to the green right side panel, on the hour meter side, the upper bolt, closest to the transmission oil cooler of the tractor. The ground wires should be grounded to the bolt lowest on that side, closest to the transmission oil cooler. Make sure there is a star washer on the ground for the rings to bite into.
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The problem is that it is grounding out on the metal from the frame
That could be true, to check, remove fuse from tractor, hook one lead of the meter (on ohms scale) to a screw post, then touch the other lead to the other post it should be 0.0. Now touch the probe to that case it should be infinite, wide open, if you get 0.0 then the fuse/thermal action has corroded and fallen apart inside the case, shorting out. Replace with a new one, they are now all plastic. I have a spare myself for just such reasons.

Holly Cow, I just zoomed over the pic, the casing is gone, no wonder it is shorting, go get a new thermal fuse!!!!!
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