My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I cut the grass today, the deck is something of a basket case. I'll sharpen the blades and monkey with the deck later.

After realizing these engines are just noisy I'm more convinced the motor is salvagable. Compression is 88 and 90 psi respectively.

As it relates to hydro oil, if this thing is going to live and work primarily in the upper peninsula should I consider low viscosity hygard or is it low vis for other reasons? The dealer said I can use either version.

The hydro oil that's in the machine now is a golden color. Does hydro go bad under normal use or is it ok to change the filter and top off?

So far I have $265 into this including acquisition and about 12 hours labor which I don't quantify because it's fun to wrench on these buggers.

Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
33,583 Posts
Compression should be 75 - 115 so looks like your good there, low viscosity should be used. I made the mistake in the 318 of using normal viscosity and it still worked but in the wintertime took it a while steer and move freely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Compression should be 75 - 115 so looks like your good there,
Well sort of, I still need to deal with the blue smoke, oil consumpton, excessive "onan cologne" problem. But it would seem a total rebuild is not in my future.

low viscosity should be used. I made the mistake in the 318 of using normal viscosity and it still worked but in the wintertime took it a while steer and move freely.
Good advice, thanks.


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
8,998 Posts
You can re ring that motor for less than 100 $
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
8,998 Posts
You can re ring the onan and only have to take the motor out, the heads off and the oil pan.Easy job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You can re ring the onan and only have to take the motor out, the heads off and the oil pan.Easy job.
Heh, I was hoping I could do it on the tractor. Guess you can't just pull the jugs and rering it.

Having removed it once and knowing the trick about removing the battery tray to get to the bolts I think I could pop it out in about 45 minutes.
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
8,998 Posts
You got to get it out to get to the oil pan but leave the carb n muffler n pto on.The only issue is there are 2 different style rings and you dont know which one you have until you get them out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You got to get it out to get to the oil pan but leave the carb n muffler n pto on.The only issue is there are 2 different style rings and you dont know which one you have until you get them out.
What's in the oil pan that I need to do?
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
8,998 Posts
The rod caps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
You got to get it out to get to the oil pan but leave the carb n muffler n pto on.The only issue is there are 2 different style rings and you dont know which one you have until you get them out.
Is it possible the wrong rings could be installed by mistake?
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
8,998 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,620 Posts
Heh, I was hoping I could do it on the tractor. Guess you can't just pull the jugs and rering it.

.
Onans don't have 'jugs'. Built more like a traditionally automotive engine. Integral block and cylinder bore. so you pull the oil pan to remove the rod caps, then push the piston and rod up and out, after the heads are off of course.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #15

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
8,998 Posts
Phillip,This link shows the difference in the rings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Yeah I saw that, I'll probably tear the motor down next week. I'll post pics of what I see once I get into the motor.

Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Ok, no pics but after the teardown it was evident oil was getting past the rings. There was a pudde of oil in both cylinders and a lot of carbon on both pistons.

Parts are in, thanks Boomer, last night I'm ready to assemble and discover one of the exhaust valves isn't seating completely (spins with little resistance) so now I have to deal with that. Rats, I really want this thing done and out of my garage.

I believe the ring gap is supposed to be .010 correct? For both rings?
I believe someone sent me the engine manual so I hope it has the torque values for all the bolts and such.
Man I'm loving my 322, except for the dieseling.

Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
8,998 Posts
Sounds like the valves need adjusting which you REALLY need to do any way at this point,min ring gap is .008 (i think)Don't put it back without adjusting the valves,should be done every 200 hrs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Sounds like the valves need adjusting which you REALLY need to do any way at this point,min ring gap is .008 (i think)Don't put it back without adjusting the valves,should be done every 200 hrs.
At this point it looks like I'll just lap them as well. Also thanks to Boomer it would seem this isn't the original motor, interesting. Just goes to show you you can't ever trust what a seller tells you.

Sent from the MTF Free App
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top