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Discussion Starter #1
While trying to adjust the front pto clutch on my 318 I noticed everything was extremely loose and I couldn’t get it to adjust properly. Upon inspection I discovered that the collar inside the bearing was extremely loose on the shaft. It looks like the collar is not being held in place by the key and therefore spinning free on the shaft and causing wear. I believe someone replaced the key at one time and it is too short to grab the notch on the collar. I’m hoping the majority of the wear is in the collar and not the shaft. Does anyone know where I can purchase a key, collar and new bearing?
 

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The key & bearing can be purchased through an industrial supply house like Fastenal, McMaster Carr, or MSC. Do NOT get square stock from a box store, Lowes', Home Depot, etc. Key stock will be .375/.376" and square stock will be .372" and too loose. There should be numbers etched/stamped on bearing outer race.

Collar is going to be difficult. Not available at Deere and you'll have to find someone with a scrapped clutch assembly.

You may (??) be able to use your old collar. Wax the end of your crankshaft with a paste wax, like Johnsons Bowling Alley Wax. Apply Loctite 242 to shaft & collar and slide inplace. If you have .010" or greater clearance, you may want to use an epoxy, JB Weld, etc. Snug bolt in crankshaft. The following day, dismantle,and reassemble with key, bearing, and armature. I can't guarantee this process, but it's possible! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks rwmeyer!

I guess that leas to my next question. Does anyone have a good collar (hub) they would like to sell? Also, how long should the key stock be cut?
 

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I can't help with a hub, but key is APPROXIMATELY 1" long. Hub sits tight against rotor (the rotating part the key drives) and has key slot that engages on key. The key length is kinda critical. It needs to stick out far enough to engage in hub, but NOT stop hub from bottoming on rotor. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again. That's definitely my problem. Someone used a key that was maybe 1/2" long and it wasn't engaging the hub. The inside of the hub is terribly wore. The rotor has just a little play on the shaft but not bad so I'm hoping the shaft is ok. Does anyone know what diameter the shaft should be?
 

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He He, That's why we're here. Different people have different approaches. Right now, you were focused on the worn part of the shaft, and as you said missed the obvious. All in all, we're all a good bunch of guys trying to help one another. Keep us posted. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I took some quick measurements at lunch. The shaft where the rotor sits is approx. 1.435". Where the hub sits is approx. 1.430". The ID of the rotor is 1.440 and the ID of the hub is 1.460. I'm assuming a good hub will measure the same ID as the rotor at 1.440. Hopefully .005 is not too much gap between the shaft and the rotor and .010 is not too much gap between the shaft and the hub.
 

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That .010 is getting kinda loose! It'll probably work but you may get some accelerated wear on the clutch. Put an add in the "Wanted" section for a 318 Ogura clutch pulley sleeve and see what the responses are.

In the meantime, check industrial supply houses and local auto parts stores for brass shim stock. I piece of .010, or .0125, or maybe (???) .015 wrapped around the crankshaft will take the clearance out. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That .010 is getting kinda loose! It'll probably work but you may get some accelerated wear on the clutch. Put an add in the "Wanted" section for a 318 Ogura clutch pulley sleeve and see what the responses are.

In the meantime, check industrial supply houses and local auto parts stores for brass shim stock. I piece of .010, or .0125, or maybe (???) .015 wrapped around the crankshaft will take the clearance out. Bob
I was actually thinking about cutting a piece out of a beer can. I only have .010 to make up and the aluminum on a can is .004 so it'll make up .008 wrapped around. And I will have to drink a beer to get my material. It might take a few to get it right.
 

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I was thinking more along the lines of using your existing worn hub. 1.430 shaft, 1.460 bore, or .030 total clearance. 3 wraps, (or 3 6-packs) will get you about the same clearance as the rotor...enjoy! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was thinking more along the lines of using your existing worn hub. 1.430 shaft, 1.460 bore, or .030 total clearance. 3 wraps, (or 3 6-packs) will get you about the same clearance as the rotor...enjoy! Bob
Ahh, gotcha. I have found a used clutch assembly and its on its way. I only need the hub but a few extra parts never hurts. I want to get as much right as possible.
 
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