318 Information Review

What to look for when buying a 318

Note: Where it says pictures there will eventually be pictures/video of the topic.

What to look for when purchasing a 318:

Hours: Number of hours may or may not be a great place to start with a machine. Onan engines that are taken care of will last many thousands of hours, in fact it is not unheard of to get 3,000 plus hours without a rebuild. However, most Onan’s need fresh rings (at the least) somewhere between 1,250-1,750 hours. Freshening the rings is covered in the repair section. An indication of ring wear is engine compression (covered in the compression section below). Also keep in mind while the hydraulic pumps and the differentials on 318 would be classified as overbuilt, pay attention to the total machine hours. Also make sure the hour meter is working. In most cases, 318’s generally have between 700-1,500 hours on them when they are for sale in the market today. This obviously will increase as the tractors get older.

Year: Use the serial number chart to establish the year of the 318, then you can use it to establish what engine (B43G or P218) the tractor should have. In some cases older tractors, 1983-1987 may have P218G’s for replacement engines. Figuring out the year may also assist with parts etc in the future.

Leaks: Check for leaks. The most leak prone areas are the oil filter adapter, the main PTO end engine seal, and the power steering cylinder.

Oil Filter Adapter:
Oil will leak out of the filter adapter and catch and the flywheel where it is spun up into the air cleaner resulting in this mess.
PICTURES
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=260999

Other threads related to the oil filter adapter leaking
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=262526
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=191592
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=136953

A leak in the front seal is easily distinguished by the oil caked onto the front of the engine. The power steering cylinder is not serviceable so if it leaks it will need to be replaced or rebuilt at a shop with the proper equipment. Pay attention to the lines running to the steering cylinder to ensure they are not cracked or worn. There is a tendency of the lines to wear on the cylinder itself, which over time may cause failure.

Deck: The 300 series came with either a 38 inch (rare), 46 inch, or 50 inch decks. There is also a more modern 48 replacement deck that can be distinguished by the turn-able wheels.
PICTURES

Of these decks, the 50 inch deck is the most desirable because of the hi lift ability and cut quality. The 46 inch deck, commonly called the 48 because of its actual dimensions, is the most numerous and while the cut quality is not on the level of the 50 inch deck , the 46 inch deck does a nice job mowing. The replacement 48 inch deck has similar cut quality to the original 46 inch deck.

Steering: There should not be any play in the steering. Two bolts located on the axle can be adjusted to reduce play in the steering. In general you should be able to turn the wheels with one finger.

Cracks: There are some reports the frames of these tractors can develop cracks around the transmission and the steering cylinder. These cracks can be repaired with the proper tools.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=244186

Maintenance: Is there any maintenance history, as stated in the “hours” section maintenance is important on these Onan’s any documented maintenance history is a plus but it should not be a deal breaker. Maintenance history can be inferred by the condition of the tractor itself.

Compression: If you can test the compression it is highly recommended. Cylinder compression should not change between a hot and cold engine and should not be more that 10 lbs different between the left and right cylinders. Good compression is between 90-105 and excellent compression is between 105 and 115. From the factory these engine should have a compression of 110-120.

Air filter: Onan’s need clean air. Dirty air filters may indicate premature engine wear.

How clean is the engine: Onan’s are air cooled engines. Air must be funneled around the engine to keep it cool. Dirty cooling fins will cause the engine to run hot, contributing to premature wear. With the engine at WOT you should be able to feel the air from the engine at least 5 or more feet away from the front of the tractor.
PICTURES clean vs not clean

Oil pan mounting tabs: If an engine has been removed and not properly re-installed the two front oil pan tabs have a tendency to crack and break off. This is not a difficult or expensive fix. However, it may indicate the engine has been removed for some type of maintenance or repair.

Oil itself: The oil should not be gooey or gritty. It should be clean

Start Up and Running: All the safety systems should be hooked up. Any modification in the safety systems (seat, neutral, and brake depending on the year) could indicate other short cuts were taken. A small amount of black smoke at start up is normal, other than that there should be no smoke from the engine. The engine should run without any choke. The starter should engage smoothly and quickly. There is a starter improvement kit that is sold or can be made for 318’s. However, hesitancy of the starter my indicate other issues within the starter or improper grounds in the electrical system.

It is normal for a 318 to require a couple of seconds worth of cranking to start if it has been setting for a decent amount of time. The pulse fuel pump, powered by the crankcase must prime the fuel lines.

The engine should idle smoothly (950 RPM) and response to increases in throttle without hesitation. WOT for Onan’s is listed at 3600, however, John Deere recommends 3,450 for WOT. At WOT with no load the engine should be smooth and not “hunt”

The PTO should engage quickly and smoothly and the engine should respond similarly. Typically there is a brief puff of black smoke when the PTO is engaged. Once the PTO is on the deck should sound like a fan and not rattle or vibrate. Rattles and vibration are a potential sign of bad bearings and worn out pulleys. Additionally the deck shell should be in good shape and not thin from mowing in dirt/sand. The deck should also be level and when mowing not scalp the grass or mow unevenly.

The tractor should remain in one place with or without the parking brake on when the hydrostatic lever is in neutral. Any “creep” can be adjusted. There should be a limited amount of whine from the hydrostatic pump when the tractor is in motion.

Drive it around and put it through its paces!

Helllo Kyle
This is a Great Thread, but when Looking to Purchase a Used 318 Not everything is Alway's Clear cut, or as in my Case as it appeared to Be. Such was the case of my 318. It's Previous owner had died, so I could not get any Information about the Tractor and had to go off Gut Instinct. It Looked good, it ran good and it had a replacement Deck being the new replacement MOW 140/318 48" mowing deck. The seat was Not tore up and the Hour Meter read 730 Hours. The Price of it was a No Brainer at $300.00 so I had very little risk in buying it at that Price as the Moweing deck sold for $1300.00 and the one on it Looked very slightly used.


It had no Oil leaks and did Not smoke. I could see someone had been Busy with a rattle can of John Deere Green paint on it, but for the most Part, it looked clean and Non Rusty so I made the Purchase. The Tri-Green John Deere dealership told me they whole saled it to me as they did Not Foll with Old Out-dated Tractors, which was Good for me. I brought it home charged up it's Deae 975 Cold Cranking Amp Napa Gold Battery, dropped all of the fluid's and filter's and replaced them with New. It Ran good for Two week's then started spitting and sputtering. I Traced it down to Faulty Ignition Point's and or Condensor so placed new ones in it Problem solved



We Mowed weekly with it being 2 Full acre's of Grass for The past Three Year's with no issues or Break down's. This Past Fall Just before Putting it away I felt that The Onan engine was Loosing Power. I took a compression check and it showed to be low at Just 70 Pound's betwen the Two cylinder's being almost equeal. I Placed a cap full of oil and checked the compression again and it shot up to 120 Pound's again equal Betwen the two cylinder's, which told me worn Piston rings. I Now had to decide what I was going to do about it ?

I called around to Four Guy's that I found that work on These Onan's. Three of the Four that I called revealed to me that Their Idea of re-building and Onan was to Place a 0.10" Over sized ring on my existing Pistons and Prices ranged from $400.00-$650.00 Range. I did Not feel comfortable with what I deem as a Luke Warm re-build, so I called Kustom Small Gas Engine's/Clark Racing in Minerva, Ohio and spoke with Carey The shop owner. He went into great detail of how they re-built and Onan and out of all of the Other's I spoke with Carey was the "ONLY" One that really Did a complete re-build so I ordered and engine from him.



After I Placed the order I Pulled my existing engine out of my 318 and Here is where thing's really took a Turn. I Noticed once I got it out of my Tractor that it had the B-43 starter and outer component's on the engine, but I did Not have a B-43 what would have come in my Tractor I had a P-218 Performer engine. I discovered this when I Pulled the Oil Pan and saw the solid Beefy style rod's that differ from The B-43's rod's which have a small Oval hole in the web of the rod. I then Noticed the Head stud's for a P-218 starter which had never been used. Apparently someone had replaced my Original B-43 engine and Now Placed a P-218 In my Tractor. In doing so they used everything on the outside of the engine that came on a B-43 I suspect to keep The Transplanted engine cost down.



It was Not a Huge problem, but when I bought the Tractor I assumed it had it's original engine in it with only 730 Hour's on the hour meter I now felt who ever repalced the engine had to have replaced the Hour meter too. I discoverd my Hour meter had quit working at 973 Hours as well so as long as I was having a new engine built I Placed a new hour meter so that I can keep Track of the actual engine hour's accuratly. While restoring my Tractor I had much Imput from Guy's that had all ready done there of which I really appreciated.



One Important thing that was missing from my Tractor was The Fire-wall Insulation. Without Having the fire-wall Insulation in place it allows the engine to draw hot dusty air from under the hood, which in Turn forces it to the Carburetor, Thus Wearing out The Onan engine rings Pre-Maturely. Once I learned of this and after Paying $1475.00 for a new engine I Placed the correct Fire-wall Insulation on my fire-wall. It was also brought to my attention that you should not run a 318 without it's Belly screen Guard. Mine came without one and I did not know that it even needed one. I recently bought one and Placed it on my Tractor in Hope's of The engine lasting much longer now with Clean filtered air going to it's blower housing and Carburetor.



In sharing these thing's here it is my desire to let Other's know out there who are buying a 318 to Look for these Two Important item's as I feel they both contribute to The Life span of the Onan engines, and I feel mine wore out early due to These lacking feature's, and some Thing's are Not clear cut when you Buy these Older Tractor's as I said in the begining of this response. . Below is a Link to a Guy that Makes up the fire-wall Insualtion Kits. His Name is John Lang and the Kit's cost about $27.00 which is Money well spent to keep your Onan running long and strong. I would also suggest if you have a 318 without The belly screen Guard that you get one in Place as John Deere did not make them for No reason they should be kept in Place and cleaned often.



In closing here I would like to Touch on Engine Oil. I feel the Best Oil to Run in these air cooled Onan engines is Pure Synthetic. I know some with argue with me about using Synthetic engine oil, but it has been Proven to Out Last any conventional Dino Oil. It hold's up Better to Heat or cold than standard conventional engine oils do. It Provides a Much better Protection against engine wear as far as ring's and Bearing surfaces as it does not Break down such as conventional engine oil does. I have at this time Castrol Heavy Duty 30# in my new engine but will be dropping it and changing the filter at 50 Hour's to add some Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic engine oil which currently has the Highest rating against Wear and with Keeeping and engine clean. I hope this helps, Hammerdown


[email protected]

I think that ueber-alles, one must remember he or she is purchasing a 21-30 year old tractor. A lot can happen in that time frame. My neighbor for example, is the original owner of his 1986 318, and is on his 3rd engine (the original was a B43G, replaced at 6 months of ownership with a P218G under warranty). About 15 years ago he had that engine replaced with a P220G by a local shop.

In Hammerdown's case, I sincerely doubt the dealer wholesaled it to him because they don't like to fool with old stuff. I have no doubt that is what they told Hammerdown, but doubt it is true. Our local dealers know what these are worth and sells them for big bucks in good condition. They will let the local collector group know of a problem child they will let go for cheap. I'd suggest the actual circumstances of Hammerdown's case were that a technician evaluated the machine as something the dealership did not want to warrant. In any event, I think Hammerdown agrees he had nothing to complain about at $300.

Anyhow, back to Kyle's effort.

- Not all creep can be adjusted out. I am seeing worn components in the linkage more frequently. Some of the linkage parts are NLA, which means a trip to the machine shop to get some correction done.

- DO NOT BE IMPRESSED BY A SHINY PAINT JOB, EVEN IF IT IS PROFESSIONALLY DONE! A local enthusiast who works for a national car painting franchise has done a lot of wonderful work for a lot of people (at very reasonable prices). Unfortunately, I've seen his work (and similar work of others) go on some really sad tractors which were sold as "restored". Restored tractors do not smoke where I come from.

Kansas John Deere said:

One Important thing that was missing from my Tractor was The Fire-wall Insulation. Without Having the fire-wall Insulation in place it allows the engine to draw hot dusty air from under the hood, which in Turn forces it to the Carburetor, Thus Wearing out The Onan engine rings Pre-Maturely.

How does it prevent "hot dusty air" ? It doesnt seal under the bottom of the hood. Also the air is drawn up from the bottom of the tractor and from the side panels air intake doesnt it. I always thought the insulation on the firewall was to help the electronic on the back side' Like the battery and the electronic igination module keep a tad bit cooler. I just cant see it helping to keep dust out???? Please explain further hows it works???? Thanks KJD:dunno:

Click to expand...

Hello Kansas John Deere
The fire-wall Insulation seals the top of the hood as well as the side's of the hood & The Rear Portion of side engine shrouds. By doing this it allow's The Blower Housing to suck clean fresh air in through The Two side steering Pedistal screens as well as the Two fresh air screen's in both engine covers. :fing32: Without The Insulation in Place all Fresh engine air can be sucked from the Open engine compartment as well as from down under the machine around the steel firewall. When John Lang send's you in Insualtion Kit he say's to leave it long on the top and sides to provide a good Air tight seal to The hood and side engine covers.




With Nothing in Place on the tin firewall dirt will be sucked into the blower housing and will get Packed in tightly with dirt around the charging Stator assembly as well as the fly wheel fins. It also allows this dirt to be directed straight through The blower Housing fresh air rubber tube that run's from the bottom of your Carburetor base housing directly down to the top opening in your blower housing, Thus Placing dirt right into your Craburetor filters. Regards, Hammerdown

D-Dogg said:

In Hammerdown's case, I sincerely doubt the dealer wholesaled it to him because they don't like to fool with old stuff. I have no doubt that is what they told Hammerdown, but doubt it is true. Our local dealers know what these are worth and sells them for big bucks in good condition. They will let the local collector group know of a problem child they will let go for cheap. I'd suggest the actual circumstances of Hammerdown's case were that a technician evaluated the machine as something the dealership did not want to warrant. In any event, I think Hammerdown agrees he had nothing to complain about at $300.

Click to expand...

Hello D-Dogg
I bought my 318 at a Tri-Green John Deere dealership. It was Located in a Very Ritzy section of town. They had No Large Garden style Tractor's in their showroom or their sales lot, Being that Most Tri-Green dealer's that I have seen here in East Tennsee Tend to be "Yuppie-Dealership's" specializing in Bird feeder's, Cotton work Glove's & Plastic Mail Boxes as their prime sale's item's, I knew that this 318 was Definatly Out of Place !. It was Parked in the rear {Scrap} row when I found it. I was told by The sales guy that sold it to me that They did Not fool with Older Tractor's like this as they had to warranty them, which was fine to me as I felt this 318 would Far Out last any of those Tin Wonder Wanna-Be John Deere's that they were selling new in their show room, or their sale lot used That could be bought at any Home Depot or Lowe's Improvement center's for a Lot Less...:fing32:


Here is how it looked the very same day that I brougfht it home Three & a Half Year's ago Bought from The Murphysboro, Tennessee John Deere Tri-Green dealership paying $300.00 Out The Door for this I felt as though they Gave me this Tractor...If I could But a Tractor Trailer load of 318's like this one that came to me for $300.00 I would Do So to only flip them for $2500.00 I Like How these Tri-Green dealer's think keep the 318's coming my way Fool's... :fing32:

D-Dogg said:

Hammerdown, I did not say it is not needed. It is needed for the reasons I stated (as well as very slightly lowering noise.

The fact is sir, you are wrong, and not wanting to take correction. It is obvious to all that you like to be seen as an authority through your random use of bold-facing in your posts (personally I find it distracting). While you do some excellent work on your restoration, in this case you are wrong. And it is okay to be wrong - none of us were on the engineering teams who designed these tractors.

Now let's move on and get back on topic.

Click to expand...

Helo D-Dogg
I am Not an engineer nor have a back ground in Engineering but it is pretty clear to me that after John Deere got A Huge black Eye with the failed 317 engines, & with that the engineer's at John Deere did everything in their Power to design a Tractor that would make it in the long run as the 318's have which would include Proper air and ventilation of the Air cooled Onan as Kohler complained that the John Deere enclosed hood design made their engines run too hot, Not wanting to accept the fact that those early Kohler Twin's lacked for good oil pressure which led to them exploding.


I don't Feel as though I am wrong stating that "NOW" my engine has much more forward Moving Hot air out of it's grill by adding the fire wall Insulation to it than it had with None in place, These are fact's that I saw the Major difference Now with the Insulation in place these are not assumptions. I really doubt John Deere cares how many Batteries we have to buy for our 318's as they are not what John Deere made or produced and as far as the T.D.M. Geting air it is mounted right by a grill screen where fresh air is and can be pulled through "IF" There is a good firewall Insulation piece in place, to provide a good flow of air to it.

I Guess we are free to have our Own opinion's here, I was Mearly trying to help other's that have 318's get their engines out there a little longer before needing a re-build and frankly if the addition of a $27.00 fire wall Insualtion piece can do that to aid in the aging process of these Old Onan's it would seem to me to be a wise Investment. I am sorry my Bold face Quotation's annoy you, but I was Just trying to covey to other's what I saw work with these Two things in Place as they were intended for on our 318's. Yes, Let's Please do move forward here with fact's and what work's well, Not assumptions, as I still feel my Point's were Valid and Needed not an Over statement. Cheers...:trink39: Hammerdown

Hello Kyle
Another thing that I noticed while going over my 318 was bad electrical connections being the female connectors. I Up-dated my wiring harness while doing my restoration, by replacing the Bad female connector's that I had. It is not uncommon to see some guy's loose their 318's to electrical fires caused by faulty wiring issues. The wiring harness on a 318 has a bunch of safeties in it that will in time corrode and cause Non starting issue as well as the ground's under the battery box T.D.B. need to be looked at cleaned and Tightened.

A vibration in the machine could mean that the rear drive shaft coupler spline is worn. Mine had it's original one that was a bit sloppy so I up-dated it with the new revised heavy duty one that John Deere now offers. it will cost $75.00 but to me is well worth it as a sloppy coupler can wear out the Hydro Out Put shaft if not replaced, and the Improved heavy duty style bolt's down tightly to the Hydro stub shaft. I hope this helps, Hammerdown

Hamnmerdown, I will post this once, then let you have the last word since that seems so important to you. You are obviously a guy who needs to be right, and there is nothing anyone can do about that.

But, for the open minded...

Absolutely nothing John Deere has anything to do with the wind created by the Onan.

That massive flywheel, and the Onan engine covers are what generate and direct airflow around the engine. Absolutely nothing else external to the engine, beyond cleaning a clogged belly screen will improve airflow.

The improved airflow you felt coming from the front of the tractor was due to one or more of a few things:
- corrected engine RPM
- reduced airflow restriction after cleaning the cooling fins and Onan engine covers
- tightening or sealing the engine covers
- your perception

Now I will allow you to post your rebuttal and then we will move back on topic.

There is some good information and some bad bickering. Please lets keep it clean as this is a great site. If there is something that isn't correct on information then it should be corrected in a nice way and received in a nice way. I have been wrong on things before and have "stood corrected" and took as best as I could. I don't like bad information being spread. Heard at an auction the "reason" the JD Patio series L&G tractors were colored the way they are. Everyone from that sale likely will be repeating and it won't be correct (sold to match your car, not your other brands of tractors with color).

Lets keep the good information coming.

FYI on frame cracks. Steering cylinder mount to frame cracks, Rear axle to frame cracks and tranny support to frame cracks are the common ones.

Tightening up the front axle may involve not just letting out the adjusting bolts as they don't wear evenly through the whole range of motion. I did that and it locked it in place. JD makes a kit that basically bolts on a plate on the worn part of the frame so it is even again. If the axle pivot bolt has worn into the frame-weld on some lock collars on to the frame(without the set screws installed) and buy a longer bolt with a locking nut. You don't want that nut to tight or it will squeeze the axle.

Doesn't hurt to look at your input shaft on your hyd pump. Out of my families 4 tractors with that pump-2 had the needle bearings eat into the shaft. Replacing the seal you take the cover housing that has that needle bearing so you can see then if it is good or not.

I don't know much about the 318 specific things but I have some "school of hard knocks" based off the 332's and my fathers 430 that is torn apart in my shop.

D-Dogg said:

Hamnmerdown, I will post this once, then let you have the last word since that seems so important to you. You are obviously a guy who needs to be right, and there is nothing anyone can do about that.

But, for the open minded...

Absolutely nothing John Deere has anything to do with the wind created by the Onan.

That massive flywheel, and the Onan engine covers are what generate and direct airflow around the engine. Absolutely nothing else external to the engine, beyond cleaning a clogged belly screen will improve airflow.

The improved airflow you felt coming from the front of the tractor was due to one or more of a few things:
- corrected engine RPM
- reduced airflow restriction after cleaning the cooling fins and Onan engine covers
- tightening or sealing the engine covers
- your perception

Now I will allow you to post your rebuttal and then we will move back on topic.

Click to expand...

Hello D-Dogg
I will address your Implications as they appeared.

It is Not my desire to have the last word as much is it is my Desire to share accurate Information, Not assumptions. :fing32:

Onan engines are seen commonly in Generator's as well as welder's but those that I have seen these Onan engine's in Lack Blower housing shields. They are Placed out in clean unobstructed air... Agree ?



It is Not Uncommon for those Onan's to go as far as 5000 Hour's before a Re-build.. Agree ? I feel part of trhe reason for this is that they are Not enclosed such as a 318 is and they do not have the amount of dirt entering them as a Lawn Tractor does.. Agree ?


The Tractor 318's have an engine Blower housing to Cool & Keep fresh air directed to the engine, Unlike Generator's or Welder's do.. Agree ?


Now, by adding side engine shield's you are restricting some of the out side side air that we see Generator's or Welder's getting.. Agree ?

By Having a fire wall Insulation in Place it can rid the engine compartment of Hot air Caused by engine heat as well as the Exhaust Heat Thus the Huge fin flywheel can push it through the housing forward past the cylinder Head's Keeping the engine much cooler.. Agree ?

Now Take away that fire wall Insulation and there is a Large Open area on the top and down both sides of the fire wall, which reduces the air flow and Trap's or Hinder's the flow Movement of said air not allowing it to cool the engine correctly or as it should. With this Insulation missing it also allow's dirt, dust and debris to enter the blower housing Jamming it into The Stator assembly {I Know this Mine was Packed full from lack of the Insulation being there} as well as Much evidence of direct dirt through the fresh air intake tube mounted in the air filter base, which Places Much more dirt into The Two air breather filters.. Agree ?


My engine RPM was at full pace being 3600 I had a Tachometer on it a few different times and it's Govenor worked correctly even though the engine was wore out and tired it still tached up where it belonged, so that had No Bearing on this new higher force of air that I see in my Tractor Now and the Only thing I changed was the addition of the fire wall Insulation so I would say that is what has changed thing's here. Just curious have you "Ever" replaced your fire wall Insulation ? Please Let's Move on Flame War's are Not attractive Nor useful to anyone in any Foum, and Keeping in "Check" with what this forum's Motto is "The Friendliest Forum" . Cheers, :trink39:Hammerdown

Back on topic.

1. We haven't addressed the Katt theorem, which says the absence or presence of the grill medallion is an indicator of the previous owner's attention to detail regarding maintenance of their tractor. I've found it to be accurate more often than not.

The grill medallion typically breaks off when someone uses it to remove the grill. This tells me the person did not bother to read the operator's manual.

The fact that it was not replaced tells me the person saw no value in it, and makes me wonder what other things were ignored on the tractor.

2. Another thing to look at is the flywheel screen (absence of it would tell me the engine has been out, hurriedly serviced, and the screen not replaced).

3. The belly screen is missing on many. Again, sloppy maintenance, and this, coupled with a missing flywheel screen will guarantee crud inside the engine tins. thus restricted airflow, thus an overheated engine.

4. Missing engine tins. Print out the part list from the JD website and verify all the tins are in place. None of them are optional.

5. Missing deck belt shields - many owners remove these because dirt and debris does get under the shields, and they don't want to be bothered taking them on or off. It's a good guess they did not want to take the deck on or off to clean under it either. Have a look underneath.

6. Missing mule drive tension knob and cover. Without the tension knob and cover, how did they know if the belt is properly tensioned?

I think the rear axle to frame cracks and/or the tranny cross support cracks are more from the bolts possibly being loose. Neither of my 332's came with a 3 point. For reference 332-1 is one with 1300 hours when bought. 332-2 is 2400 hours when bought. -1 came with a new grill (from the paint) and a 50 inch mower deck. The swash plate control linakage was very worn and the bolt was paper thin (this is your direction control-it is a swash plate style pump for the hydraulics/transmission). -1 had cracking on both axle to frame mounts on the frame. Bolts seemed tight and I couldn't tell you if someone else had pulled the rearend but possibly. Welded and fixed. No other cracks.

-2 had a MCS hitch but didn't have a PTO so I am assuming it at one time had the deck driven style. Came with a 48 inch replacement mower which it looked rough so it wasn't taken care of. It wasn't cracked near the axle. But the cylinder to frame mount is. I don't have a welder and won't be able to take to my brothers (professional welder 4 hours away) till they stop salting the roads. I think this may be more from the cylinder having more motion the then stops for the steering. You can see it flex a little when you hit the stops. The front axle was EXTREMELY loose on this one. I still need to add the kit to both of mine on the adjuster bolts and I bought the Cat 0 3 point balls to also have my brother weld on. I bought from redland hill who also is a 3 point maker for $7 each.

So-I don't know why the frames crack-only what to look for. The axle crack can be harder to see with the rearend still installed depending on the crack.

My fathers 430 I am working on-they welded a plate on where the rear axle bolts up to. I have seen someone else on here do a nice weld job making it stronger-this ISN'T it. The plate is cracking so I have a frame that my brother is going to cut and weld on.

As far as the input shaft being bad. If it is leaking then there is a chance it is bad. My brothers was leaking. My fathers wasn't. So it is hard to tell. You can buy a used pump for around $200. Otherwise you could just buy the shaft from JD for $600.

The pump relief valves also commonly leak. Both of my 332's leaked. I put used ones in one and new in the other. Some have been able to fix the leaks but they have to be cut apart. They are $74 used for a pair or $125 new from JD. There is a place that sells them new that cost much less though.

Wear plate kit is AM101199 which is NLA from JD. So you need 4 bolts 19M7163, 4 nuts 14M7273 and two plates M88756. BUT the plates seem to be NLA possibly. I just bought two kits from JD. Then looking for them for my fathers 430 they were NLA from JD but greenfarmparts says they have them. But then again-they also said they had 332/322/330 battery support trays till they refunded my money for them. Poor mans kit is 4 bolts/nuts and some flat steel. That is all the kit is. Others have welded the frame back up smooth.