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Discussion Starter #1
I notice some play in the axle when turning the steering wheel...I see an adjustment that would make it go away, but I am not sure whether play should be eliminated all together...or if a gap should remain...I don't have manual so I can't look it up, but does anyone know if that bolt should be moved to eliminate the gap and then locked with the nut...or is that "normal"
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Mark, Often the frame doesn't wear 100% flat.Theoretically, you'd want .001" clearance, just so you're not rubbing as the tractor tilts side to side.

With front tires on the ground, loosen locknut. This may be the greatest task... penetrating oil and patience required! When both locknuts are loose, jack front of tractor so you can push down on each tire and it doesn't touch the ground. I'd back the bolts out about 2 flats on the bolt head working side to side. Push tire down and then lift up fully. You want your axle to move full travel up & down without the bolts hitting. You may end up with a larger gap when the tractor is lowered to the ground, but that's wear in the frame. You can get plates to get it flat again also. At some time, you may also consider removing axle and inspecting bushing to axle pivot bolt clearance. Replace as you see fit! Bob
 

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That is common issue with steering, Bob gave you good directions, remember to keep it perpendicular to the frame though, they don't always wear on left and right side equally so I've seen people adjust them to a bit of an angle and not realize it.
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I would say your first thing to is to check your pinion bolt on the front axle. Then do you adjustments as said.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pinion seems ok...but the steel that the heads of those bolts come in contact with is really worn....and it looks like it goes across both sides and up in front of the engine....there is enough room,so ....I am thinking of welding on a piece of steel ( really hard ) I have a lot of 1/4 5/16 and 3/8 scraps from oil tanks and boilers that I remove
 

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Yep that is the normal wear on one. I was trying to find it, there is a kit for that that includes the plates and the bolts, but can't find it right now. But replacing the plates should do the trick. Fixing that takes most of the "walking" out of the steering.
 

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PA & Mark, In 318 parts catalog PC1924, Section 80, wheels etc, front axle.It's not pictured in the parts diagram, but if you scroll down, you'll see Kit AM101198 . Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have not really had to ask for much help in the past, but this 318 and Onan is a little complicated compared to most of the stuff I have worked on in the past I am really overwhelmed by the good information and help I am getting with this tractor..just a reminder as to why MTF is referred to as the Friendliest Forum.....thank you all
 

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Mark, That's why many of us are here, to help others. I've found 3 categories of people in this and other Forums: Those that are here for their reading enjoyment, those that are in need of help/info, and those that are here to help. At some point in our time here, we all fit into one or more of these categories.

Do you have the Tech. Manual (TM1590) for the 318? If not, you, and others following this thread, can:
Type "TM1590" in whatever web search box you use.
Scroll down the findings until you find, "www,wfmfiles.com".
Click on the link, download, save, and ya got it! Bob
 

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I think most people find us looking for help or just to find others that share their interests. Once here they then fall into one of the categories that Bob has stated. I know I first came to get help on my 318, wish I'd found it sooner!! Anyways, the JD crowd want's you out there getting seat time so we help alot. Don't forget to look at the JD FAQ's sub-forum too, a great amount of info there!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bob ...thank you for that link..
I am heading out to JD to pick up filters for engine and trans...both are actually about half the price at the Deere dealer than Amazon
 

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Mark, those on-line guys are robbing folks blind jacking JD OEM parts up and then charging you to have them delivered. You will do better at the dealer about 75% of the time, if they are just a few pennies higher I tend to buy at the dealer as I'll grab a meal at a restaurant while I'm out and about, I don't like cooking that much!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I saw on one of Mr. Beef's videos he mentioned to check JD dealer for prices....The filters at JD actually were about half of Amazon or ebay price...I was lso able to order the "wear plate straps" to take care of the worn out ones..it is not a kit any more...just buy individual pieces ...the straps were $12.24 each...the screws were about .70 each and teh nuts were.35 each ....coming in a few days
 

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Most dealers get two trucks a week in the JD system. So any order normally only takes 3 days to fill. I just ordered a new seat so I can leave one in the cab and don't have to change all of that out each year. We'll see how long before I get the notice. They are doing more things by email these days so that works for me!
 

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Mark, Your farme where the plates will go is worn and the plates are flat. A few good bumps and plates could (??) bend.

Drill & tap frame, or thru bolt (not sure what you'll get), and remove plates. Put tape (masking, painters, cellophane, electric, whatever you've got) on the back of the plate. Wash frame with solvent and lay some epoxy on frame where plates mount. Attach plates. IF in the future you have to replace plates, you'll have a flat surface and the tape prevents the epoxy from adhering to plates.
Just my thoughts. Bob
 
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