I decided to bring one of my dead 317s back to life. Cabin fever this winter has been brutal, I needed something to do.
I will warn you now: this won't be a restore (nor should it be.)
The 317 had a unfortunate history as the red-headed step-child of the JD family, due to the KT17 issues. These non-running 317s usually can be picked up cheap (as mine was) and repowered and modified into a versatile little machine, usually for less than a good used running tractor.
Dragged the 317 from it's icy tomb of the back 40. The seat was removed in the fall to prevent damage and stored indoors.
Rolling it into the shop was a chore, the freewheeling valve doesn't seem to be working, so the tires skidded their way in.
The white tag on the hood gives an ominous warning "CHECK OIL EVERY HOUR!!
I am guessing this engine is a KT17 with some serious blow-by issues, since the oil fill tube has been replaced with a threaded pipe nipple and plug to keep the cap from being launched into oblivion. There are some pipe wrench marks on the driveshaft adapter, where someone rolled the engine over to break free a seized connecting rod bearing.
There may be a driveshaft issue. :sidelaugh
After a few hours, I had a rolling frame.
For the repower, a JD 2653A golf course mower will be the unsuspecting organ donor. Reel mower units seem to sell for very cheap in my area, which makes them a good parts source.
The 2653A's harvested heart:
Set the new engine on the frame to get an idea of what needs to be done. I will need to modify the hydro linkage, and trim away the center pedestal support for engine and radiator clearance.
The 2653A was equipped with power steering, so the power steering unit and bracket were raided from the machine. Unfortunately, the steering unit has a very short column section (approx 6") which would have had the steering unit tight to the underside of the dash. The column tube and shaft were cut from the manual steering gear that was removed, then grafted to the power unit.
The donor bracket was cut and welded as required to fit the new custom column.
While I was cleaning the frame, I discovered what was causing the freewheeling valve issue. There was so much dirt packed around the freewheeling valves that the plate that depresses the valves was stopped by the compacted dirt.
Next, I had to modify the hydro linkage, so it would be tucked inside the frame rail area to clear the engine. The 2" angle now supports the pedestal center structure, as well as a base for the radiator to sit on.
A section of the frame crossmember had to be removed to accommodate the oil pan.
The crankshaft flange needs a 1" keyed shaft to connect to the driveshaft.
Luckily, it already had a 1" hole bored through the center. I broached a keyway and set it on the shaft.
To make sure the shaft and flange are true, I set up a couple pillow blocks on a bench, with a dial indicator to measure lateral runout.
A couple tack welds were placed, then the flange was tapped to get it straight. I felt it was close enough when I had the runout down to 0.003" at which point I welded it solid. After welding, the shaft was cut off at about 2". Final length will be determined once the driveshaft is being set up.
I had a friend at a fabrication shop cut me a 10" circle on the plasma table, which will be the start point of the bellhousing to support the PTO clutch.
I welded 2"x1/8" flat bar to the plate to create the bellhousing sides.
I cut the mounting tabs from the original flywheel guard that came with the engine and welded them to the new bellhousing.
Engine in place, there will be enough space above the PTO clutch to have the battery tray. Engine mounts are next item to address.